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MarioS

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  1. Like
    MarioS reacted to chuck540z3 in Tamiya F-15C Kicked Up A Notch- Dec 1/17: DONE!   
    Thanks Guys!
     
     
     
    All I use is a few Hasegawa "Trytool" metal rulars with notches in them at varying widths and a needle in a pin vice.  I have not had much luck with the riveting wheels, because its hard to find a long straight panel line that needs rivets and it's even harder to keep it in a straight line.  Besides, most of the rivet patterns are curved anyway
     
    Here's a distant pic of what they look like from an earlier post.
     

     
     
     
     
    Thank you Wolf, but I will never get as good as you at modeling.  Never!  You make me try, however, even though it's a lost cause for all time.
     
     
    OK boys a small update.  Before I do much more work to the front of the model, the rear vertical stabilizers need plenty of modifications to get them looking reasonably accurate.  Like most of this kit, the panel lines and rivet detail are about 70% correct and 30% wrong.  With some work, I can correct about 20% of them, but there will always be some small errors here and there that I'll just have to live with as you will see.
     
    First, here's a pic of the unmodified stabs.  Besides an almost total lack of rivet detail, they have the famous huge rudder bulges that need to be sanded down a LOT!  Note that I have cut off the 4 little hooks on the bottom of the stabs, since they are just in the way and I suspect they only exist for those who might store their model with the stabs removed.
     
     

     
     
    Before I do any more, let's take a look at the real deal.  Here are the 3 reference pics I used the most with strong shadows, that show the bulge is still present, but subtle.
     
     

     

     
     
    I took this one at Nellis last November for just this step of the build.  There's lots going on that is not present on the kit parts and the kit parts have a few things not present on the real deal.  The lower rivet and panel line detail shows up fairly well on this jet, but the rudder bulge is almost non-existent.
     
     

     
     
    Here is Step #1, which is self-explanatory.
     
     

     
     
    Step #2, which has extensive rivet detail added, including more raised Archer resin decal rivets.
     
     

     
     
    Here's the stab dry-fitted to the fuselage, showing how miss-aligned some of the panel lines are, which is why some of them have been filled in with CA glue and will be rescribed later.  The main join does not exist, while the panel line I scribed above it does, so this join should be filled in and sanded smooth.
     
     

     
     
    The inside is much the same story, although the join is easier to fill since it sits flush.  That diagonal panel line, however, is just not worth all the effort to modify, since about 6 things will have to be changed to do so.  Time to punt!
     
     

     
     
    The port side stab has a very wimpy AN/ALQ-135 Tactical Electronic Warfare System (TEWS) pod, so thankfully the GT resin screen and grill kit has a replacement that I glued on.
     
     

     
     
     
    For my next update I hope to have these vertical stabilizers glued in, filled and rescribed so that they look like part of the fuselage, rather than just stuck on.  Happy Modeling!
     
    Cheers,
    Chuck
  2. Like
    MarioS got a reaction from Youngtiger1 in Trumpeter 1/32 MiG-29A - first Pics   
    Yes very nice looking plane, too many schemes to choose from. As mentioned above those decals are available but if you are in favour of the Tiger head but don't like the digital camo scheme you can always wait for Trumpeter to bring out the MiG-29US and use the scheme below.
     
    I hope to eventually buy two Trumpeter MiG-29 A's and maybe make one as a Polish Air Force and the other one as Slovak Air Force One. Only problem there is no 32 scale sheet for it!  hopefully some decal company might come to the rescue and design one for both the MiG-29AS & the MiG-29UBS in 32 scale…
     
     
    But if that doesn't happen I'm quite happy to give it a shot myself, what have I got to lose (a week on the computer) I mean it's not that hard I'm more at ease trying to scratch design a decal sheet then scratch build and an entire 32 scale plane, so far I've collected roughly 90 photos of the MiG-29AS 0921 as reference as far as the camo goes I can cut it out on my old Roland plotter and with the images (tiger head), well hopefully  if someone could please steer me in the right direction to some reputable company that does one off decal prints…
     

  3. Like
    MarioS got a reaction from LSP_K2 in Trumpeter 1/32 MiG-29A - first Pics   
    Yes very nice looking plane, too many schemes to choose from. As mentioned above those decals are available but if you are in favour of the Tiger head but don't like the digital camo scheme you can always wait for Trumpeter to bring out the MiG-29US and use the scheme below.
     
    I hope to eventually buy two Trumpeter MiG-29 A's and maybe make one as a Polish Air Force and the other one as Slovak Air Force One. Only problem there is no 32 scale sheet for it!  hopefully some decal company might come to the rescue and design one for both the MiG-29AS & the MiG-29UBS in 32 scale…
     
     
    But if that doesn't happen I'm quite happy to give it a shot myself, what have I got to lose (a week on the computer) I mean it's not that hard I'm more at ease trying to scratch design a decal sheet then scratch build and an entire 32 scale plane, so far I've collected roughly 90 photos of the MiG-29AS 0921 as reference as far as the camo goes I can cut it out on my old Roland plotter and with the images (tiger head), well hopefully  if someone could please steer me in the right direction to some reputable company that does one off decal prints…
     

  4. Like
    MarioS got a reaction from Uncarina in Trumpeter 1/32 MiG-29A - first Pics   
    Can't wait till this great looking aircraft comes out; I've put one on order at Hannants some time ago when they first listed it. There are so many great looking schemes out there that I may need (want) to buy two, as Zero77 said.
     
    Looking forward to having a look at (and buy) this new Caracal Models 1/32 MiG-29 sheet.
     
    But what I wouldn't mind is the opportunity also to do it in a Slovak Air Force scheme. I would have to say this is one of the best looking MiG's out there.
     
    Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think there's a 1/32 scale decals sheet for these markings. What a great opportunity for a decal company maybe Caracal Models to tackle it (Yes?), a decal sheet for the digital camo plus the tiger's head and with alternative option to do a Peel Away Stencil sheet for the camo if you choose to want to paint it on, I'll buy one! (or two).
     
     
     

     

  5. Like
    MarioS got a reaction from Shawn M in Trumpeter 1/32 MiG-29A - first Pics   
    Can't wait till this great looking aircraft comes out; I've put one on order at Hannants some time ago when they first listed it. There are so many great looking schemes out there that I may need (want) to buy two, as Zero77 said.
     
    Looking forward to having a look at (and buy) this new Caracal Models 1/32 MiG-29 sheet.
     
    But what I wouldn't mind is the opportunity also to do it in a Slovak Air Force scheme. I would have to say this is one of the best looking MiG's out there.
     
    Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think there's a 1/32 scale decals sheet for these markings. What a great opportunity for a decal company maybe Caracal Models to tackle it (Yes?), a decal sheet for the digital camo plus the tiger's head and with alternative option to do a Peel Away Stencil sheet for the camo if you choose to want to paint it on, I'll buy one! (or two).
     
     
     

     

  6. Like
    MarioS got a reaction from LSP_K2 in Trumpeter 1/32 MiG-29A - first Pics   
    Can't wait till this great looking aircraft comes out; I've put one on order at Hannants some time ago when they first listed it. There are so many great looking schemes out there that I may need (want) to buy two, as Zero77 said.
     
    Looking forward to having a look at (and buy) this new Caracal Models 1/32 MiG-29 sheet.
     
    But what I wouldn't mind is the opportunity also to do it in a Slovak Air Force scheme. I would have to say this is one of the best looking MiG's out there.
     
    Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think there's a 1/32 scale decals sheet for these markings. What a great opportunity for a decal company maybe Caracal Models to tackle it (Yes?), a decal sheet for the digital camo plus the tiger's head and with alternative option to do a Peel Away Stencil sheet for the camo if you choose to want to paint it on, I'll buy one! (or two).
     
     
     

     

  7. Like
    MarioS reacted to Tony T in ITALERI F-35   
    Really superb images of the kit Mario - much appreciated!
     
    We should find out what Tamiya is up to (if anything LSP) next month, at the Shizuoka toy fair.
     
    Tony
  8. Like
    MarioS got a reaction from Tony T in ITALERI F-35   
    Just saw this F-35 thread for the first time.
     
    I received my 1/32 F-35A roughly 3 weeks ago, and back then I took some photos of it; if anyone's interested I've posted some of them on imgur if U would like to have a look at them you can find them here… https://imgur.com/a/cNPgR
     
    The photos are 3200 pixels across, half of the original size
     
     
    I also posted some photos of the real thing that I took at the Avalon Air Show and as well the F-35 seat that was on display. There's some good reference photos… https://imgur.com/a/vE8cO  
     
     
    I'd like to eventually make mine as an Australian version, and if or when they do bring out the C version in 1/32 I wounded mind try and do a diorama as a US Navy one just hovering off a carrier deck as though it was just about to land.
     
    PS. I read here somewhere that Tamiya is making one, is that true?
  9. Like
    MarioS reacted to chuck540z3 in Tamiya F-15C Kicked Up A Notch- Dec 1/17: DONE!   
    Based upon the above, here's what I did with the bottom.
     
    BEFORE
     
     

     
     
    AFTER
     

     
     
    With the wings out of the way, I turned my attention to some flaws on the intakes.  As shown earlier, there is a huge gap on the inside of each intake at the front. 
     
     

     
     
    Since it's on the inside, I doubt that many would know about it, much less fix it, but it was bugging me so here's the first step.  I used more styrene to fill most of the void, followed by CA glue, then sanded everything down flush.  Here's the first step.  I will show the completed fix later after some paint.
     
     

     
     
    The rear of the intake ramp has a couple of flaws, other than the unsightly gap.  Those circular panels should only be visible when the ramps are in the down position and disappear when the ramp is up and flat.  The rear of the ramp is a bit too thick as well.
     
     

     
     
    To fix the side gap, I used more styrene, which also provided a flush edge for the ramp to be glued to later, since my ramps will not be movable.  Moving ramps = paint scratches and they should always be flat when parked anyway.
     
     

     
     
    Now my fix for the top using styrene sheet, which achieves 3 things:
     
    The circular panels are covered. The slope of the rear of the intake is reduced, as it should be. The rear of the ramp looks thinner.  
     

     
     
    That's it for now boys, but I can see the end of this build in sight now.
     
    Cheers,
    Chuck
  10. Like
    MarioS got a reaction from A-10LOADER in F-4S, VMFA-112, Heater-Ferris Scheme - Final Pics Coming Through...   
    Very nice job on the F-4S Marcel. That paint work looks perfect.
  11. Like
    MarioS got a reaction from Uncarina in A thread for posting images of beautiful aeroplanes.   
    Great thread Dale and also great bunch of planes/photos here; one of my favourites is the B-17.
     
    Here's my contribution some old, some new, some painted and some mine.
     
    Another old favourite is the F-14 one of the photos that I've put up here, there are so many photos on the net but I think this one says it all just Can't Stop Looking At It
     

     
     
    Thanks,
  12. Like
    MarioS got a reaction from CANicoll in A thread for posting images of beautiful aeroplanes.   
    Great thread Dale and also great bunch of planes/photos here; one of my favourites is the B-17.
     
    Here's my contribution some old, some new, some painted and some mine.
     
    Another old favourite is the F-14 one of the photos that I've put up here, there are so many photos on the net but I think this one says it all just Can't Stop Looking At It
     

     
     
    Thanks,
  13. Like
    MarioS reacted to Marcel111 in F-4S, VMFA-112, Heater-Ferris Scheme - Final Pics Coming Through...   
    Thx guys!
     
    Some pics with the masking off:
     

     
    You may think that I am getting very close to completion but there are many, many touch-ups and eooros to fix. I got quite a bit of paint lifting from the metal sections and also quite a bit of paint creeping under the masking.
     
    The streaky underside:
     

     
    Here is what some of the red lights look like. As a reminder, I made these from red acrylic plastic (sourced dirt-cheap on ebay).
     

     

     
    I have major work-travel coming up so there will likely not be all that much progress in the next two months--pity, I am really keen to finish this and move on to the F-16 double-build.
     
    Cheers,
     
    Marcel
  14. Like
    MarioS reacted to Marcel111 in F-4S, VMFA-112, Heater-Ferris Scheme - Final Pics Coming Through...   
    Thx guys! Chuck, yes, I can't wait to take that tape off, pretty close now... although I am always apprehensive about possible "leaks".
     
    At the risk of being very repetitive, I thought I'd show how she looks with some flat coat on. This is the first time I got a good impression of what the overall look is and I am pleased how it turned out... note how much lighter the dark blue/gray shade is once it is flat.
     

     

     
     
    Here is a closer look at some of the weathering. Note the distressed look of the paint. As far as oil streaks etc. are concerned, this is as much as I will do, I think this is appropriate and reconciles with pics of VMFA-112 Phantoms I have found online.
     

     

     

     

     
    Here are some magnified views of the nose section. Shoot, noticed some little errors there I hadn't seen before. 
     
    I really had to wing it with some of the stencilling.
     

     

     
    Cheers,
     
    Marcel
  15. Like
    MarioS reacted to wpierson in Tamiya F-15C Kicked Up A Notch- Dec 1/17: DONE!   
    Hi, Just wanted to say how much I'm enjoying reading this thread. You are a serious wealth of modeling "how to" information.
     
    That being said, I do have a question; on 1/17 you posted about using LS to beef up a pin the you had undermined while adding depth to a vent. I've heard of using LS on different threads, but no one has really offered up any information that I've found on how to make LS, use and store it. Could you do a small tutorial on that? How long is it good for once it's made etc. Thanks in advance! 
     
    Bill
  16. Like
    MarioS reacted to chuck540z3 in Tamiya F-15C Kicked Up A Notch- Dec 1/17: DONE!   
    Well, you came to the right person Bill, because I have made every mistake possible with Liquid Sprue (LS), so here goes for those who care!  I'll start with the basics.  As simple as it is, there are some things to watch out for.
     
    Liquid Sprue is just basically plastic sprue pieces melted in plastic cement, like Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (TETC) or many other cements that weld plastic together by melting them.  I find that after I use about 2/3's of a jar of TETC, it will be quite cloudy due to brush contamination, so it's a good candidate for the creation of LS.
     
    1)  Starting with a jar of cement about 1/3 full, add a few small pieces of plastic sprue and let them sit overnight covered.  Don't overdo the addition of plastic, because it's easier to add more plastic than more glue later if you don't get the mixture correct.  Make the pieces of plastic small, so that they are easy to dissolve.
     
    2)  Stir the mixture until is is fully mixed the next day.  Your target viscosity is that of ordinary honey.  If the mixture is too thin, add more sprue.  If it's too thick, add more glue, etc.
     
     
    When I first discovered LS during my 1/32 A-10C build, I thought I was in heaven.  What better filler in plastic than more of the plastic itself!?  Well, it didn't turn out that easy for these reasons.
     
    1)  LS shrinks like crazy, depending on how thick it is.  This shrinkage can take anywhere from 1-2 days to months(!), depending on how thick you apply it.  50% shrinkage is common.
     
    2)  The thicker the application of LS, the slower it will dry.
     
    3)  Until the LS is very dry, it won't sand at all.  It just flexes with the sandpaper and won't shear.
     
    4)  If mixed too vigorously, LS can trap air bubbles that are very hard to get rid of.
     
    5)  LS can melt everything around it and make it soft if it is applied too thick.
     
     
    I had many problems with LS initially and they can all be blamed on applying it too thickly and not giving it enough time to dry properly.  I had LS continuously shrink for as long as 3 months and deform adjacent parts, which is not a lot of fun after you've already painted your model, so here are some tips.
     
     
    1)  Apply LS in thin coats with the brush in the bottle or microbrush, never more than 2 mm at a time.  Let each coat dry overnight (and shrink) before the next coat.
     
    2)  Like paint, LS will tend to dry out over time in the bottle, so add more glue as required before each application.
     
    3)  Again, you want a honey-like consistency to the mixture.  If thinner, it will be too harsh on surrounding plastic and if thicker, it is too hard to apply.
     
    4)  Keep LS ventilated!  If LS is enclosed and not exposed to moving air, it won't dry.
     
     
    So with all those warnings and caveats, one might wonder why one would ever use LS at all?  Well, if you have lots of time for it to dry- as I did reinforcing those posts in the fuselage- it is the same color as the plastic, sands like the plastic and welds to the plastic better than any filler.  You can even make small parts with it.  I use CA glue for most of my filling needs, but sometimes Tamiya putty is the answer and at other times Liquid Sprue is just the ticket.
     
    Happy Modeling,
    Chuck
  17. Like
    MarioS reacted to chuck540z3 in Tamiya F-15C Kicked Up A Notch- Dec 1/17: DONE!   
    Thank you everyone!
     
    In my haste to fill in that big gap on the bottom of the wing, I forgot to replace the rivet detail.  Soooo, better late than never.  As Chris said, Tamiya Extra Thin Cement is fantastic stuff.
     
     
    Before....
     
     

     
     
    And now after, with more rivet detail added.  Note how the other panel lines have tightened up as well by just re-scribing them.
     
     

     
     
    Cheers,
    Chuck
  18. Like
    MarioS reacted to chuck540z3 in Tamiya F-15C Kicked Up A Notch- Dec 1/17: DONE!   
    Here is what I did to the wing to add detail, which has been highlighted with more black Tamiya panel line accent color.  In general, the rivet pattern of the kit parts was doubled, but in real life you could easily triple the rivets and not be wrong.  This looks like quite enough to my eye….
     
     

     
     
    A few “walk-around†close-ups…..
     
     

     

     

     
     
    I did not add as much detail to the bottom of the wings for 2 reasons.  Pics of the bottom of the real deal are almost impossible to find and, more importantly, you'll never see them later anyway!
     
     

     
     
    I also drilled out the fuel dump spouts on the wing tips, since the kit parts are fairly blunt with no relief.
     
     
    ]
     
     
    That's it for now boys.  I drive on with this build at my own pace and when I feel like it, unlike past builds where I felt obligated to post updates, rather than post them when I wanted to.  I find this process much more fun! 
     
     
    Cheers,
    Chuck
  19. Like
    MarioS got a reaction from chuck540z3 in Tamiya F-15C Kicked Up A Notch- Dec 1/17: DONE!   
    They do look amazing chuck it's as though you just miniaturised the real thing somehow. You used your magic paintbrush and shrunk them down to 32 scale.
  20. Like
    MarioS reacted to chuck540z3 in Tamiya F-15C Kicked Up A Notch- Dec 1/17: DONE!   
    Mar 6/17
     
    Thanks guys.  With all those kind comments the pressure to perform is immense, so I hope I don't disappoint!
     
     
    The final product.  I hope you like them because they weren't easy- with no Photoshopping whatsoever, other than lighting tweaks.
     
     

     
     
    In case you want to do something similar, here's how I did the above.  First off, is the choice of Alclad colors.  On the resin block I cut the Two Mikes nozzles from, I sprayed a few Alclad colors as shown below as a test.  Unfortunately, the exact colors do not photograph very well, but it appeared to my eye that Magnesium was good for most of the outside of the nozzle, a bit of Steel for the middle portion and a combination of Steel, Stainless Steel and Hot Metal Blue for the outside base.  Note the light colored Alclad Steel on the left has some of the paint removed due to masking tape pulling it off.  More on that later.
     
     

     
     
    As indicated above, it was my intention to color the outside of the inner nozzle petals a light blue, as per the reference pics shown.  To paint these petals a separate color is just about impossible at this late stage with all of the complicated obstacles around them, but I did have a plan that was almost as good.  A little known fact about the Tamiya pastels is that they are not oil based like most pastels, but water based, which means they can be dissolved in water to form a wash.  Here I have scraped off some of the Burnt Blue pastels into a cup and added a drop or two of water.
     
     

     
     
    I then “painted†the blue wash onto the individual petals that should be blue on the outside, as shown in earlier posts of the real deal.  One really cool thing about this wash is that it is easily removed with water, so if I screw up and get the wash painted on some parts that I shouldn't (and you will!), it is easily removed with water.
     
    Alclad does not like to be touched with human hands due to skin oil that removes some of the lacquer.  Some Alclad colors -especially the lighter colored ones like Stainless Steel that I used on the base (along with Hot Metal Blue)- also do not react well to masking tape either.  After the bases are painted, they need to be masked off so that the rest of the nozzle can be painted a darker color. But how do you do that without removing some of the paint? 
     
    An old modeling trick that I learned years ago for sensitive areas is to use Tamiya masking tape, but touch each piece of tape to your forehead to absorb oils from your skin, which reduces the tack of the tape.  As gross as that may sound and ironically, the reason you shouldn't touch the Alclad with your hands is the same reason the tack of the tape has been reduced enough to still mask without sticking too hard to the thin and fragile lacquer.  Here I show another trick to hold the nozzles securely without touching them with my hands, with the masking tape “de-tacked†at the base.  Plain old paper, rolled into a tube, provides a perfect platform to hold the nozzle without touching it while painting it- and it masks off the interior at the same time.  Set in a small raised box like the one below, it doesn't touch anything while it dries.
     
     

     
     
     
    Magnesium and Steel have been applied, then the Blue pastel wash....
     
     

     
     
    A few more angles of the finished product.  I think I've "Done Good".
     
     

     

     
     
    Dry fit to the rear fuselage, I think this will look excellent when the model is finished.
     
     

     
     
    Tip #1:  Dry fit the base of the nozzle to the fuselage many times before you attach the rest of the exhaust nozzle to this base, making the necessary changes (sanding and #11 knife) to make the base fit cleanly and snug without a lot of drama.  Left on their own, the kit parts do not fit very well at all, with the port side nozzle fit that is very tight, if not impossible to attach without modification.  You do not want to struggling with the nozzle attachment with 150 tiny parts and a good paint job at a later time.
     
    Tip #2:  Get rid of that little tab on the inside of the exhaust nozzle that forces you to install it on the fuselage at a certain angle.  You will have some really good looking angles to your exhaust and maybe some not so great ones, so by cutting off this tab, you can rotate the nozzle to show off the best at the top and bottom and maybe hide some imperfections on the sides against the tail booms, that nobody will ever see.
     
    Thanks for your continued interest in this build.  This thread is now a bit over 1 year so far, but I have never put a model on a shelf so far (although tempted from time to time), so I WILL finish this project!
     
    Cheers,
    Chuck
  21. Like
    MarioS reacted to chuck540z3 in Tamiya F-15C Kicked Up A Notch- Dec 1/17: DONE!   
    Thanks.
     
    I can't take credit for that fantastic reference pic of the nozzle detail, nor the one below.  Although most of my previous pics in this thread are photos I took myself, I get some really good ones from the very source:  USAF Public Photos, like this one.  So cool.....
     
    thi
     
     
     
    This pic, however, is mine on a desert Aggressor.  Note the brownish tinge on the nozzle petals, which I think may be due to reflection from the brown paint job on the jet? 
     
     

     
     
    Cheers,
    Chuck
  22. Like
    MarioS got a reaction from chuck540z3 in Tamiya F-15C Kicked Up A Notch- Dec 1/17: DONE!   
    "Sometimes modeling is hard labor and this was one of those times, but I'm hoping the end result will be worth it! "
     
     
     
    Chuck, I'm sure we all know the answer to that the end result will be nothing but perfect and
     
     
    BTW I see what you guys mean about those U-shaped end pieces the PE ones do look better than the out of the box
     
    Looking Good
  23. Like
    MarioS reacted to chuck540z3 in Tamiya F-15C Kicked Up A Notch- Dec 1/17: DONE!   
    Feb 28/17
     
    Thanks you very much guys!
     
    Rather than just yak about the Eduard turkey feather anchor points discussed above any longer, I got down to business last night and just installed the little suckers.  Up until now, each nozzle has 105 pieces that have been added and with the actuator arms (15) and these new PE parts (30), each nozzle has 150 X 2 = 300 tiny little parts that had to be cut off, trimmed, sometimes bent and glued into place!
     
    Here's how small they are, 60 in all that had to be bent into the U shape.....
     
     

     
     
    The kit actuator arms need to be both shortened, but trimmed as well to a taper at the tip.  They are actually thinner than this on the real deal, but I wanted them to fit the brass attachment points as perfectly as possible.  The unaltered kit part on the left and the trimmed part on the right.  Note the slight trimming of the sides on the left to allow a snug fit into the PE attachment points.
     
     

     
     
    To get all 30 arms cut exactly the same length, this little chopping block gizmo was invaluable.  I hardly every use it, but when you need it, it comes in very handy.
     
     

     
     
    A super close-up of how these arms fit into place within the Eduard PE parts.  Keep in mind this shot is about as close as you can get, so every tiny flaw is magnified.
     
     

     
     
    Zoomed out, you can see the nozzles after final assembly, including all those tiny U-shaped anchor points on the bottom collar.  The base of each nozzle was pre-painted with Tamiya gloss black lacquer before installation into the bottom collar to allow for easy access and eliminate any air turbulence that can make the paint rough.  The rest of the nozzle can now be painted black without worrying about getting into those complicated tight spots within the base.
     
     

     
     
    Another angle more from the top, to show that looking almost head-on, the width of the petals does not look as thick as from the sides.  After painting the interior white (with the appropriate dark staining) and the outside a mix of Alclad Titanium and Steel, the appearance of this width should be subdued even more.
     
    BTW, for laughs, I tried to sand one of the petals down a bit and got the predictable results.  As mentioned earlier, these Two Mikes nozzles are too soft to sand, so all you wind up doing is scratching them, so they are better off left as is.
     
     

     
     
    That's it for now, so my next post will likely have these nozzles painted a multitude of subtle colors and stained appropriately, but not too much.  This is one of the parts of modeling that I really love because it allows me to be a bit artsy.
     
     
    Cheers,
    Chuck
  24. Like
    MarioS reacted to Galfa in Tamiya F-15C Kicked Up A Notch- Dec 1/17: DONE!   
    Congratulations,
     
    Best thread of the year by far and large. Show us as much as possible of the painting of these exhausts.
  25. Like
    MarioS reacted to chuck540z3 in Tamiya F-15C Kicked Up A Notch- Dec 1/17: DONE!   
    Hi Mario,
     
    Thanks for the great pics of the Flightpath kit.  While I am not surprised at the number of parts, I am relieved I didn't even try to buy or assemble such a kit.  As of last week, I'm one year into this build already and I bet those nozzles would add another 2-3 months!  As someone mentioned earlier, there is a very high chance of losing some of the parts to add to the challenge, so I wish you the best of luck.  If you have them built before this build thread is finished, please post some pics here because most of the ones I've seen on the 'net are not very clear.
     
    I can't answer your question, but I have a partial guess that I bet is correct.  While I have no idea why Tamiya got the length of the nozzles so wrong, aftermarket suppliers almost always try to replicate the same dimensions of the kit parts they are creating to make sure that everything fits.  The diameter of the nozzles would be a good example of this, while the length is not, so perhaps Flightpath just assumed that Tamiya got everything correct for scale and the error just continues.  I have found this many times with resin parts, like the intake replacements for Tamiya F-4 kits.  Most of them have copied the raised panels on the intake sides, which are much too high for scale.  They are not "Battle Damage Repair' (BDR) panels as many have claimed, but panels that are often removed and have sealant applied when they are re-installed, creating a bit of a higher profile.  Tamiya tried to recreate the raised look, but the profile is about 3 X too high- as are many resin replacements.
     
    Cheers,
    Chuck
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