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  1. All I did was copy the URL, no [img] tag in front or end of the URL when I put it in the “insert image from URL” button. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
  2. Sorry for the lack of updates. Summer hit, then I underwent some surgery (all is well) and as always happens life gets in the way. I'm hoping to get back to this in the near future. As of now, the cockpit is in the fuselage and the whole airframe is together. I'm wholly dissatisfied with the fit of the closed wingtip air brakes. I'm puzzling over those and how to resolve them to my satisfaction. After that is done, some minor details to add to the airframe and it will be ready for prime/ paint. Marc B.
  3. Funny thing is, when shipping was free I'd just buy whenever I wanted as there was no advantage to buying a single kit or bundling several. Now, however, I find myself waiting to make it worthwhile or go in with a few friends to split shipping costs. I actually haven't bought anything from them since they switched to their new method. The Camel is definitely in my future along with a Salmson. I dread what the shipping, taxes, etc will end up being. Marc B.
  4. Very nicely done, sir! Funny little things tend to catch my eye; in this case I really like the paint treatment you gave to the rubber bladder tanks behind the seat. Really quite convincing. Marc B.
  5. Wow. I always marvel at how people can take an otherwise basic simple kit and turn it into such a masterpiece. Lots of passion put into that subject. Hats off to you sir. Marc B.
  6. I agree. A new tool Hasegawa basic kit would be welcome. For people that just want a basic accurate canvas to do various schemes/ nose art it would fit the bill. Not every Mustang we build needs the Tamiya super-kit treatment (I have two, and that's enough for me). Marc B.
  7. Tamiya's is definitely the winner for accuracy and ease of build. My friend picked up a pre-owned one recently for $120 CDN. As for only a Block 50 out of box, while this is true, if you can still purchase sprues from Tamiya or if you can manage to get the block 50 and the Thunderbirds boxing, I think you have everything to do two kits from an F-16C block 25 through 52. You would have to source a WAR HUD for a Block 40, though.
  8. Their diorama ground work items I found quite nice for my armour modelling needs and as said before, their carrier deck vehicles were very nice. Also what got me going from a simple model "assembler" with not much thought of what I was doing to my current standards was Verlinden's 'On Plastic Wings' book. Don't forget this was before the days of the Internet so resources were very limited on "how" to do this stuff. It launched me forward into scratch building, weathering, etc. and every technique from that book I tried just *worked*. I would still highly recommend that book to a novice aircraft model builder. Along with Shep Paine (whom I had the pleasure of meeting with and having a few beers with at one of our model shows in the early 2000's),Francois Verlinden propelled this hobby forward at a time it needed it and inspired many of us to the level we are at today. As such, I too find it a sad day to see them shut down and cringe worthy to see some of those dioramas get trashed. Sad day. Marc B.
  9. Which kit are you referring to, Tamiya? If so, it seems like they included USAF AIM-9Es in the J kit or did they just pooch the AIM-9D/Gs? Marc B.
  10. Awesome start on the Frogfoot. I've really got to get back to the bench and finish mine. Tip: for the gaps at the nacelle to fuselage join and the tail base, Perfect Plastic Putty worked great for me. I applied it with a large bore syringe and after completely dry swabbed away the excess with a damp q-tip. Marc B.
  11. Next up is a change in the weapons lineup. Originally I was going to use single FAB-250s on the end pylons (next to the missiles), but I couldn't get them to fit on the pylons to my satisfaction. So I returned to my original, original plan to use the MBD-2-67 bomb dispensers with a load of FAB-100s. Original issue with these was that they have box fins which I could not find in use anywhere... so I bit the bullet and modified them with a tubular fin group and new fin end. Here's my efforts on that front: Last up for tonight is a shot of my try at the hydraulic brake boxes of the main wheels. Real deal: My scaled interpretation: That's all for now... lots more is done, just no photos yet. Marc B.
  12. So, finally have some time to give some more updates. I'm calling the cockpit done. Aires resin cockpit set with scratched mods and details... all painted, weathered. Tub (prior to weathering): Instrument panel completed... Check the hud... I'm really pleased how this came out. And a few views of it all together: Marc B.
  13. Simmo, harvey, Mike and all the "likers", Thanks! It's always nice to share in a hobby that is usually a solo affair. Marc B.
  14. More progress... This time I'm concentrating on the 'pit. need to finish that off so I can close up the fuselage. I made a small addition to the instrument panel. On the new right side panel the pilots instrument panel lamp was relocated to the upper right corner, so I shaved off the original and relocated it and added the electrical cable for it. Next up are the lap belts... these things are 7 photoetch pieces each... maddening! I'll add these after the seat has been painted. On the seat, I added the cloth seat pad/ backrest as seen on the Ukrainian K-36 ejection seats. To that I added the tie downs in the four corners. The shoulder harness is tucked in behind the back pad for stowage. Here's the real deal for comparison. So here is the whole cockpit ready for priming/ painting. It's not glued together, just assembled for the picture. That's all for now. Marc B.
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