Mustang JBB

That is why I was thinking it was a scam as I could not find the picture on any of the Trumpeter FB pages. Plus, the picture just looks a little too set up. The tires depicted on the front computer screen look like truck type tires, and the Invader models are very square to the desks, parallel with the edges etc. The rear computer screen has some kind of object on it, but nothing I can see as definitively "Invader". The two models are almost perfectly pointed right at each other. The other models in the room are all Tanks as well. Are these the armor guys? Why do they have a 1/32 airplane on the desk? Not sure what the open box is on the first desk. Tanker truck? Submarine? What ever it is, it does not look like Invader parts. Nothing else in the room says "Invader" to me except the two perfectly placed models on the desks. Though I am no expert analyst by any means. It just doesn't "look" right. But I sure do hope I am wrong, because I will be the first in line to buy one. or three.

I hope it is real, I would love an Invader, but something tells me this is a hoax. Crossing my fingers though!

I guess that is a good question. I guess I will start a thread and see what happens. There are some aspects of FB that make sharing photos links quicker and easier though.

My FB page will draw content and users from all over the web. I have posted links to several LSP forum threads already about the 1/24 F6F. Lots of the people on my FB not did not know LSP(or LSM, Hyperscale, Nigel's Modelling Bench, and certain after market companies etc) existed before those posted links. So I am sending the love back this way as well, and promoting the hobby in general.

No offense taken. I do not have a build going right now, just collecting data, assembly tricks, and reference material, and asking the rest of the planet to join in and help each other out. The Facebook format has some advantages over forums and vice versa. I will be watching all of the builds here and on other forums as well. A lot of people are on FB and not the forums. Some people don't even know about this forum. I am using FB to link people to this forum and the various threads here, along with linking them to other forums, manufacturer pages, reference photos and web pages etc. LSP is great, but it is not a one stop shop, nor is FB. FB is just another avenue to get more info to me and others. I have 12 different knives on my hobby table. They all cut, but they all cut just a little different that the other. Someone commented above that they did not like the FB format. If you build a FB page or group, you have access to tools to change the format, pin certain threads and posts, and tag threads so they appear under certain classification buttons, like "after market", "tools", "paints" etc. Just like we tag threads here. All it takes is a few minutes to figure it all out. By the way... LSP has a FB page.

https://www.facebook.com/search/top/?q=1%2F24 airfix hawker typhoon mk.ib builds&epa=SEARCH_BOX

https://www.facebook.com/search/top/?q=1%2F24 airfix hawker typhoon mk.ib builds&epa=SEAR CH_BOX

I am a member of a Face book page that is dedicated to the 1/24 Airfix Typhoon kits. We share build pictures, advice, and reference material useful for a successful build of that specific kit. Since it has proved very beneficial, I decided to create a group just for the new 1/24 F6F Hellcat kit. If you intend to build the kit, consider joining the page and sharing what you can, or seeing what others have to say. I have posted a few starter links to build videos and aftermarket suppliers. https://www.facebook.com/groups/359388731442410/

I know it is supposed to be out in May, but any ideas as to what part of May? Is Airfix been good about releasing on schedule?

there was build here on LSP a few years ago where the guy simply tilted the whole wing. By cutting the spar slots on the fuselage so that the front spar was higher and the back lower(or the other way. Can' remember which way the nacelles need to be fixed). The flat side of the fuselage makes this fix ideal. Not 100% accurate fix, but gets the nacelle angle corrected.

Another picture of the left front fuselage. The decals I will be using.

A small update on my painting progress. Ben a few mistakes here and there, but nothing that can't be fixed. Some how I managed to paint a nice and even scallop effect into the upper camo on the right side of the fuselage. This will be eliminated.

Glad to see you starting a new build thread. I have enjoyed all the previous builds and learned many new things. Thank you for taking the time to post your work!

Yup. That's the one. It is interesting to note that the box art, kit instructions, and after market decal instructions all vary on how the mottling is represented. I am going with the pastern and density of the box art. Looks nice.

What I do... I make applicators out of very fine wire taken out of some scrap electrical device wire. Pull a single metal wire out about 5 or 6 inches long. Bend that wire around the shaft of a needle or pin. Try to make a loop about 1/16" or less. Then twist the wire to makes a shaft. What you end up with is a twisted wire shaft with a tiny loop at the end. The whole thing looks like a tiny lollipop. Since the wire shaft will bend easily. glue the shaft along a tooth pick to give it rigidity. Just don't block the loop. When I sit down to make these, I make a dozen or so at a time. How it works... You have to use this with extra thin CA(super glue). Put a drop or two in a bottle cap. Dip the loop only into the CA. then quickly touch the edge of the loop to the joint you are trying to fix. Capillary action will draw the thin CA out of the loop and into the joint/gap. Since you are using very small amounts of CA, it may take several application this way depending on you needs. The CA will build up in the loop so have a lighter handy to burn it out and clear the loop. It is important to use extra thin CA or it won't work. Also, don't try to use the drops in your bottle cap for too long. It starts to cure and thicken after a few minutes, and this defeats the capillary action. Just use a few drops at a time and be wiling to let the unused stuff go to waste. You can use the loop tool to apply accelerator as well without spraying the stuff everywhere. Just be quick to pull the loop away and not glue it to the model. Sometimes it is effective to cut a break in the loop and make it a small narrow "U", which gives a little more precision in some instances. Touch the open portion to the joint. I use this method and tools to glue down photo etch parts, wires etc all the time. It does apply only small amounts of CA at a time, so be patient. However, it give you very precise control over the glue and accelerator.