red Dog

Any recommendation for a pilot? Since it will be in inflight build I will need to sit a pilot at the controls. I'm not too concerned about the body, but the helmet is a problem. My understanding is that pilots may elect to fly with the lighter HGU-55 if they don't need the HMCS but this build is about combat so I might need the Scorpion helmet. I don't have much reference about the special helmet A-10 pilots use in combat. And to my knowledge it does not exists in 1/32 This is the best picture I have about the Scorpion helmet (in a AC-130) and one I posted earlier in the A-10 Any tips, hints, advice, recommendation about it?

he'll be safe on the left quarter

The Sufa nose looks like a F-16 nose to me

great news. Will be buying both the minute they hit the stores. Matter of fact I see many stores with preorders options (which I don't do :)) Congrats on these 2 new great subjects

Originality is priceless

Here's mine I came to the conclusion by studying these pictures: It looked close enough to me hence why I came to the that conclusion. But I'd love to hear another angle

Thanks Steve. I think I'll add them with self adhesive aluminium foil

loved everybit building mine, which I converted to a KA-6D great model

interesting Talon. I inquired the same about the position of the wing. Mostly due to the strake issue. but I came to the conclusion that the wings were not too high, the strakes are just undersized. When you look at the fuselage pylon and the wing position related to them, the position of the wing seems correct. I'd be interested to know your development and how you came to that conclusion, as It not too late for me to correct if that's indeed the case .

Thank you gents. Here's my plan for the wings: - Major issue is the sponson shape. I don't know yet how to correct this but clearly it will be lots of styrene and elbow grease for sanding - Close all gear doors. This is surprisingly easy - Find a way to secure the wheels up. I will use the Cutting edge resin wheels. Did you know that the way the gear is designed, the warthog can land gear up and the wheels actually turn and do their job even in the wells. - Cut the aileron away and secure them to the wings. That is to provide more depth. - Detail the dispensers - the sponson dispenser are undersized and will be replaced by the Cutting Edge parts. The wingtips dispensers will be detailed with CE resin and Eduard PE. - Not sure I will keep the possibility to lower flaps. Beside the way Trumpeter planned this is only one notch of flaps. They can't go full flaps without further modification. In flight, these should be up anyway - it is not like the A-10 needs to lower flaps to fly slow enough for refuelling. (It's rather the refueler that needs to pops the flaps and gears and spoilers - Detail the wingtips with ALR-69 and MWLS sensors - Update the wing fence with the CE part. The slat is no true aerodynamic slat but a device to ensure the engines get good (not contaminated & not turbulent) airflow It deploys when the gun is fired to avoid gun gazes to be injested into the engines and it deploys at high AOA to keep the airflow getting into those giant intakes as less turbulent as possible. They are also deployed on the ground when the engine is out but since I'm doing an in-flight they should not be deployed. -Add the small Stall Detection Tab - it's the same system that on the aircrfat I fly It's visible on the picture above, between the sponson and the outboard pylon - I noticed on some pictures again that some A-10 have a sort of tape on the leading edge of the wings and tails. (See picture above on the right) do not know the purpose of that tape. If you have any idea I'm interested to know. I thought it was some sort of anti-ice protection system but it seems more like reflective tape. I'd love to know. -Dunno if I will make a stronger spar that go through the fuselage to better secure the wing. I will assess that as I progress - Detail all pylons with more rivets - And of course detail and correct the panel lines and rivets where necessary.

Rear fuselage is complete. I still have a few things to do but there's no point adding rivets that may be damaged when I will join the two fuselage section together. I also left the vertical tails out for now. I was lucky to snatch a pair of remaining Archer rivets in circle sheet from an European shop and I was wondering how I was going to define which size to use but when I opened the pouch I realized Woody had us covered by supplying a clear acetate sheet to help us chose which one to use. Pretty awesome thinking @Woody V A few panel lines and recessed rivets need correcting on the tail the forward panel line is misplaced and should be more or less aligned with the horizontal tail panel line where identified by the thin red line. The original panel line and its triple rivet line were filled with the water based putty which can be wiped away without sanding. The tail cone which is articulated has a double panel line where a single one should be sufficient. It was filled in the same way. I also sanded the white tube alongside the fuselage contour. This is where the support rod will enter the model. Then applied different positive rivets. I also cut the Eduard formation lights at the same length of the ones below. I think I understand why Eduard made the mistake. They probably scaled their formation light between the panel lines. But since the forward one is misplaced ended up with too long formation lights. No grudge on Eduard as mine are still a bit too long. Nevertheless this is looking much better and the reason why I went the extra mile to displace that bad panel line. Some minor rivet work on the fuselage side: Not how the circle rivets stand out perfectly. I'm so glad I didn't have to bend a rivet line to achieve this. The single rivets (Armor 1/35) from Quinta are also very handy. they are a bit more tedious to place and I always secure them with a drop of Tamiya ultra thin cement. Before gluing the massive engine nacelles on the back of the rear fuselage, I gave a quick coat of paint to the fuselage sides under the nacelles as this area will be harder to get to later on. Rough pre-shading in black followed by MRP-038 for FS36375 The APU plate was also quickly painted in steel with some hues of burnt metal. I will add the deflective cover later on. The nacelles could then be mated to the fuselage. the forward and back edges were puttied and the engraved lines were matched. Lots of rivets were lost in the operation. The forward ones will be remade once the front and aft fuselages are glued together but the rear ones were added. Forward and aft fuselage mates pretty well and pretty strongly without glue so I couldn't resist trying the support rod in carbon. Happy to see it does not bend with the current weight. It starts to look like and A-10. Let's now start the dreaded wings Thanks for getting your weekly dose of A-10 modeling

Good Show Bill. You made the aircraft great justice. Sorry the green didn't match perfectly your camouflage colour but you came out great and fixed it beautifully

I agree. I tend to place small engines when I want my props to spin. But usually these small rotor turns way too fast for an idle engine but if you look at picture of such models: you barely see the prop at all. (yes it was spinning fast and my shutter speed was low yet: this is with a slightly higher shutter speed and then the prop starts to appear imho, there is no bad points to leave the blades completely out. The only time I considered prop blur was this one (1/48 sorry) I really wanted to have the contrast between the feathered engine and the spinning one. But in the end I added an engine rather than using prop blur. And the result was way better

You forgot to tell that we also write caricatural forum post about it too

that was close saved your blade tip though

Engine nacelles work is completed. That was a lot more work than I thought. I used almost half a sheet of Quinta's 1/24 black rivets, that's a lot of them. I coated the whole with Mr Surfacer I must say I'm pretty happy with how the Quinta rivets turned out. The film is barely visible after three or four applications of Daco strong decal solution. That missing row was visible before paint (original trumpeter rivet's) but after paint they disappeared. I will add a line of Quinta's The fuselage sides were also populated with a bit more rivets, on the APU exhaust plate and on the wing fairing which are totally devoid of details. The APU intake on the back between the two engines has been worked on as well: - Thinned from the inside - Riveted (I learned that curving rivet decal is not as easy as it sounds ) - Added some aluminium plastic strips after the intake was glued in place. One annoying fitting issue is is that the nacelle seems not to match the fuselage on the left side. The right side is good. I decided to add a 0.5mm strip on the left fuselage side before gluing the nacelle. This should not crook the nacelle on the side. That will prevent a lot of sanding on the top of the fuselage The notches for the adjustment tabs of the nacelles were cut out of the strip. Fit is much better with that 0.5mm strip, the rear does not suffer from it either. The added rivets on the APU intake really add to the model Just a bit more work on the top rear end of the beast and I will have the rear fuselage assembly completed. Then I can start the dreaded wings Thanks for following

great result !! It's always special when someone finish a model which ius relatively unique. Well done

Your help over the years has been a pearl in our hobby Harold. We cannot thank you enough. Not only did you produce great products but you always went the extra mile to grant special request and help strangers. I was on that receiving end quite often and I am grateful. Thank you I join my pairs and whish you all the best and hope you popup from time to time on this special place.

Splendid !!

I decided to get rid of the awful engine nacelle latches and do my own. Here's the plan: - 5 of each on the bottom of the doors. The first 3 (left) are okay, the long one is actually missing the latch and the last one (further right should be latch only and no strengthening) - 3 of each on the side of the doors. The only one acceptable from trumpeter is the one for the small inside door - which the engraving is missing on the nacelle but it is misplaced. The middle one (lower on the main side door is misplaced as well The last one (visible from the side is well placed but suffered quite a bit in the nacelle sanding process. - The forward latches are completely missing. 3 are needed on each nacelle - The panel lines and rivet lines on the main doors needs to be sanded/ filled. They shouldn't be there. - lose a lot of rivets and therefore adding many raised rivets So I designed replacement latches to be engraved and cut with the silhouette cameo4 using 0.3mm styrene sheet. These are cut already but I will sand a bit more the rear face and the panels will pop out thinner than 0.3mm. Two passes - one engraving pass and one cut pass for the outline of the panel. Intensive work for the cutter but pretty happy with the end result. The part were I did not engrave rivets is because I will add raised rivets hoping to get the effect like in the picture below: Dry fit: The forward one is just a latch. The internal doors have been engraved. I can now glue them One done, one to go... Before & After Started some rivet repair work. More rivets will be added around the fuel vent. It's not perfect as I should have given more clearance to the engraved rivets so they would match the raised rivets positioning but it's already much better than the original offering and will stand out much better after painting. Another Sunday well spent at the bench Thanks for looking

Completely missed this one Talon, glad to see another warthog being worked on. Did you print these pylons? they look great and that intake looks very special. Great work.

hello Furie, Yes in another life, I was that guy

Thank you all for you feedback Yeah D-M birds seems not to have them. Too bad because I feel like Chuck and I agree they break the paint pretty well. And I'm probably going for a D-M jet deployed in the middle east... Coming from the guy who detail the most invisible details in the gear wells ... you're not credible And I actually am engineering a special support for this one allowing me to rotate it on the stick and elevate it as well do be able to change the pose for almost any attitude during the popup maneuver Thanks Jari, great stuff as always

If that helps here's a blowup of a picture with that part and the labelling : the original picture I had saved - sorry I can't remember the origin of the picture

Anyone know the story about walkways on A-10 I see pictures of the same era A-10 models with or without anti-slip area for walk zones. I also see differences from squadron to squadron about the shape of those areas? Spangdahlem bird: This one clearly has them, although it's hard to say where they are on the tail. That's a Davis-Monthan bird with zero anti-slip Another SP bird - I can't really see the anti slip area but I can see perfectly the areas walked on Pretty obvious on an Osan bird. Are those wearing out, have they been supressed? any specific rules about them? Any information you guys might have, I'm interested