Yeager's X-1

[LSP_Kevin]

Well, it's clear that I'll not finish this one by the deadline! I have, however, resumed work on it, and have almost finished the basic rescribing. I'll get as much done as I can in the next few days, and then move it over to the Clear the Bench GB. Nothing photo-worthy yet though.

 

Kev

[LSP_Kevin]

I've got some concerns about the kit decals, and using them to represent Glamorous Glennis at the time of Chuck's record-breaking flight. The stars 'n' bars in the kit are the old-style USAAF type, without the additional red bars. There are photos of X-1 #2 (6063) wearing these, but I can't find any of #1 (6062) - which is the plane Yeager flew. And if the caption on the following photo is accurate, then I'm snookered!

 

(Photo scanned from Chuck Yeager and the Bell X-1)

 

I'm tempted to go into "who cares" mode here, but I thought I might seek some advice first. I really want to build Glamorous Glennis, and it doesn't necessarily have to be at the time of breaking the sound barrier, but I suspect that 6062 never wore that inscription while wearing the old-style national markings. The book doesn't really make it explicit. Anyone know for sure?

 

(I know I asked this question earlier in the thread, but that was before I came across the photo above.)

 

Kev

[LSP_Kevin]

Well, I've succumbed to the inevitable and moved this one over here, where it is now justifiably appropriate. I have actually been attempting to work on it, however! I've finished all the rescribing - which was relatively easy on this kit - and have come up against my first real hurdle. The engine exhausts and mounting plate are just a tad undersized:

 

 

I think the gap is too large to simply pack it out with styrene strip, as the exhausts are pretty close to the outside edge on the real thing. No problem, I thought; I'll just scratch-build a new set!

 

After a few feeble attempts to reproduce a correctly-shaped mounting plate at the required size, I have to admit temporary defeat.

 

I tried capturing the shape with a contour gauge, but I think the resolution is too coarse for such a small part. I also tried tracing the shape around the outside, but of course I need the internal dimensions.

 

Whatever I do, I just can't seem to get those concave cut-ins anything close to correct when shaping the part. Perhaps it's just the lack of a true master pattern that is causing my headaches. Can any of you master scratch builders offer any advice? Derek? Radu? Russ? Bueller?

 

Kev

[Out2gtcha]

.....Whatever I do, I just can't seem to get those concave cut-ins anything close to correct when shaping the part. Perhaps it's just the lack of a true master pattern that is causing my headaches. Can any of you master scratch builders offer any advice? Derek? Radu? Russ? Bueller?

 

Kev

 

 

Hmmmmmm

 

Have you thought about (this assuming you havnt glued the fuse together yet) standing 1 half of the fuse on end and tracing the internal dimensions of it on to some sheet styrene, then cutting out and flipping over to reproduce the other side....then glue in? This is simplified of course....adding tubing for the rocket exhaust tubes - and some diff sizes that fit snugly into one another to reproduce the staggered lip of the exhaust..

 

Just a thought but dont know how practical

 

Brian

[LSP_Kevin]

Hmmmmmm

 

Have you thought about (this assuming you havnt glued the fuse together yet) standing 1 half of the fuse on end and tracing the internal dimensions of it on to some sheet styrene, then cutting out and flipping over to reproduce the other side....then glue in? This is simplified of course....adding tubing for the rocket exhaust tubes - and some diff sizes that fit snugly into one another to reproduce the staggered lip of the exhaust..

 

Just a thought but dont know how practical

 

Brian

 

That's pretty much exactly my next move Brian! Unless someone comes up with a better idea first. I think I'll try it on some card stock first, before moving to the plastic sheet. I'm mostly worried about reproducing the shape correctly once it's traced out however. I seem to have a complete lack of ability to reproduce anything that isn't already perfectly round or square!

 

Kev

[ruzlkampf]

Hey Kevin! Is that rear bulkhead the nozzles attach to recessed, or flush with the aft airframe?

[LSP_Kevin]

Hey Kevin! Is that rear bulkhead the nozzles attach to recessed, or flush with the aft airframe?

 

Looks a bit like this Russ:

 

(Photo scanned from Chuck Yeager and the Bell X-1)

 

It's very close to the end, but not quite flush. I suppose I could fit it flush and try to fashion some sort of lip or ridge to make it appear as if it's not, but that sounds even harder to me!

 

Kev

[ruzlkampf]

Aaaaaaah-haaaah. I got a simple slick way of doing this that doesn't require any special talents or a lot of fancy cutting Kev! One more question; Is the rocket motor already glued inside the fuse? What I'm wondering,... is there a bulkhead in front of it that which wouldn't allow you to shine a light (or held up to a light source) to shine thru the fuse from the cockpit opening aft?

It would be easier for me to draw a pic, scan it, then post it here on how to do this. You could even use your original rocket nozzles(but not the bulkhead) if you don't have any styrene tubing the correct size. A very simple inexpensive 'farm boy fix' to get your rear bulkhead with a lip around the edge using your existing pieces. Except one small scrap piece of sheet styrene (the thinner the better) that's a wee bit bigger than your rear opening. I'll post it tomorrow when I get back on. Later dude!

[LSP_Kevin]

Aaaaaaah-haaaah. I got a simple slick way of doing this that doesn't require any special talents or a lot of fancy cutting Kev! One more question; Is the rocket motor already glued inside the fuse? What I'm wondering,... is there a bulkhead in front of it that which wouldn't allow you to shine a light (or held up to a light source) to shine thru the fuse from the cockpit opening aft?

It would be easier for me to draw a pic, scan it, then post it here on how to do this. You could even use your original rocket nozzles(but not the bulkhead) if you don't have any styrene tubing the correct size. A very simple inexpensive 'farm boy fix' to get your rear bulkhead with a lip around the edge using your existing pieces. Except one small scrap piece of sheet styrene (the thinner the better) that's a wee bit bigger than your rear opening. I'll post it tomorrow when I get back on. Later dude!

 

Sounds intriguing Russ! Nothing's glued in place yet while I await some divine inspiration/intervention on the problem. There's also no bulkhead between motor and cockpit, though the cockpit is a semi-sealed tub.

 

Kev

[Kaeone57]

What up Kev,

 

 

I had an idea for you in the "Ghetto Fix" manner that I, being a certified "Ghetto Scientist" wish to share. You can make a stamp out of the rear to make a bulkhead for your nozzle mount.

 

First- True, and tape your fuselage halves together if you still wish to keep them apart at this point. It will also allow you to get the fit right later, and add an inner lip at the desired location to assist gluing your new tail part to.

 

Second- After aligning, cleaning, and trueing up the rear edge, wet it up with some paint, ink, etc. to allow you to stamp it onto some plastic card to make your pattern transfer. Practice the stamp action on some paper, or card stock, etc., to get the wetness right so you get a good transfer of the rear.

 

Third- Before cutting, sanding the new piece to shape, figure out if you want it flush to the rear, or more like the real X-1, and recess it some. This must be done so you can figure where your gonna butt your new bulkhead to, and attach your inner lip to attach it. If it's gonna be flush, cut, sand your part to the inner line of your stamp, attach your glue lip on the inside behind your new bulkhead, check and adjust fit. If you want to recess it in then cut,sand less to be able to move it forward some, attach your inner glue lip, check and adjust fit.

 

Fourth- You can modify your kit nozzles, by what I saw in your rear pic of it, to fit your new part. You can stamp, in the same manner as before, the nozzle part onto the bulkhead after making the necessary alignments to get the placement right. Tack your new bulkhead onto its attachment lip and tape your halves together again, then stamp the nozzles onto the bulkhead. You can then drill out the openings on your new bulkhead, and I think there may be minimal adjustment to make it work, plus those big lips around the outside of the nozzles might tone down a bit with their location on the new bulkhead. It might help to take pics of the side of the nozzle piece for that great idea your waiting for to come to light, as this "ghetto" theories conclusion is based on the evidence presented.

 

Last would be to grind the rear edge somewhat closer to scale thickness if you chose to go that route.

 

If my stupid idea interests you any, and you needs some clarity, just play some "Old School" Funk, James Brown, The JB'S, and The Meters, seem to work best, or some "Old School" Hip Hop, KRS1, PE, or any other smart Hip Hop will do, but no nowaday statistic top 40 flip flop, and I will answer the call for...... Captain Ghetto...

 

 

As always Peace, and BTW Thats a nice X-1, the best of luck 2 ya.

 

Alfonso

[Sabre F-86]

Stick the model tail down on a piece of plastic, and trace around the contour. Cut it out with about a 1/16 or 3/32 less all around. Actually you can file the inside out a bit more so you have a better joint. That joint will meet the fuselage in a wedge shape. This way you can make the filler piece fit exact. As for the metal rim, I'd take some pop can material and cut a thing strip about 3/64s wide from it and then glue it edge on to the end plate. I've done model ship bulwarks this way and it works well. Just do it a little bit at a time.

 

 

As for that photo, notice that the cut in below the middle set o tailpipes is not a cut in, rather flat point to point? You will have to do some filling there on the fuselage to get rid of that.

 

Sabre

[LSP_Kevin]

Some great ideas there fellas! But I think you're all over-estimating my abilities - especially when it comes to cutting accurate shapes! That's really where all my attempts so far have failed; I just can't seem to follow the lines.

 

Collectively though you've given me an idea for how I might go about this, so I'll give it a shot when I get the chance and report back...

 

Kev

[PhilB]

Kev,

This might sound a bit simplistic but being from the Ghengis Khan school of modelling finesse it looks from the real photo that the tubes need to separated a bit in the kit. I don't know if you can remove the panel that's joining them so they float. Add a bulkhead from card about 1cm inside the fuse with the tubes running through it to give the correct spread or a bit of flex in them. Seal up the fuse then use Milliput up its backside. The bulkhead will work as a backing to help it fill the rear end and give you something to work against. The advantage being you have plenty of time to work it and you could get what appears to be a slightly curvy rear end plate. You could then smooth it to a good finish with water and cotton buds.

That's my twopenny worth mate. If its not to your cup o tea then I'll just go back to my darkened corner!

 

Phil

[ruzlkampf]

Wheehuweee! Lotsa great ideas here for sure! Did some drawing tonight to put my dollar-two-ninety five into the collective think tank going on here. Doesn't require adding a lip, or beveling a bulkhead to conform to a tapering inside shape, or even cutting a fancy bulkhead to fit 4 tubes. Uses the kit rocket motor to hold the bulkhead in place and prevent it from 'pushing thru' while trying to glue it in place. Uses a light to trace around whatever size/shape opening happens to be at the nozzle end of the fuse, and if you don't have any styrene tubing the correct diameter laying around.....lets you use the kit nozzles in a wider 'spread' to fit the larger new bulkhead.(after cutting them off the kit rear bulkhead of course) Some xtra notes for sketch #'s;

#1-Killing 2 birds with one stone here. Creating a lip while thinning the edges of the rear opening. If sanded/shaved at this angle,....the thicker the plastic is, the more of a flat area for that bulkhead to glue to....so no need to bevel the new piece.

#2-Might add a few whisps of glue to hold the styrene in place while tracing around the opening.

#5-You can see how the new rear opening would be flat. Using the kit engine to attach the bulkhead eases handling/positioning/ and keeps it from 'pushing in' once installed. Allows you to use a fuse half to position things easier.

 

Because I'm lazy, and in a hurry,...here's how I'd do this operation;

 

 

 

 

 

A piece of PVC tubing with a scrap sheet of styrene tacked onto it held up to a light to show how easy it would be to trace around any irregularly shaped opening. Hope this helps Kevin, good luck!

 

 

[LSP_Kevin]

That's my twopenny worth mate. If its not to your cup o tea then I'll just go back to my darkened corner!

 

Thanks for your advice Phil. Your approach sounds remarkably similar to Dan's suggestion. I have something else in mind for the moment, which is partly an amalgamation of some of the ideas you guys have presented in this thread, and partly a bit of crazy free-thinking of my own. The combination is probably dangerous...but only to me! Stay tuned.

 

Kev