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Saurons eye - S-300V 9S32 "Grill pan" fire control radar


dutik

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Excellent!

Except from the ill-fitting square alignment pins and the seat supports everything fits like a glove! :speak_cool:

 

I've noted very few errors in the instructions:

 

step 16: use U9+U19, not U38

step 17: use VB53, not VC53

step 20: placement of some more VC36 not mentioned (grab handles)

step 20: use VA10 instead of VB35

 

Thats it so far. The placement or orientation of some parts is somewhat vaguely shown in the instructions, so take your time to get it right.

 

Regards

- dutik

Edited by dutik
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Your wish had been granted ^_^

 

s300v-148ujez.jpg

 

This is one-shotprimer by Ammo of Mig. Discovered some flaws, mostly spilled superglue, that need to be sanded off and primed again. This will take some days, because one-shot primer drys fast, but is sandable only after 24 hours. And yes, one shot only and priming is done. Nice! But the major advantage is that this primer is not smelly and non-toxic, so you can keep working in the hobbyroom while the primer dries.

 

Regards

- dutik

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The chassis - a MT-T heavy tracked hauler, btw - has large sideskirts that when in place prevents to add the sprocket, idler and upper track run. It is long and wobbly too with a narrow contact surface to the chassis body. So we have to intermesh painting and building of this area. Painting and wheatering the inner surfaces first, then install the upper track run, sprocket and idler and finally to place the side skirt on top. So first and foremost we need two upper track runs. Long track runs. Each track link features 4 sprue gates that need to be cleaned and a separate guiding pin has to be glued to every single track link. I am still in the tedious process to clean up a lot uf track links and to glue them together to form a track. So no major update today, only a small one:

 

howru-1s8jc0.jpg

 

This is my painting guide. Neat book to show you how to paint your tank to a lifelike look. even with some tanks or other vehicles under your belt it is a very useful step-by-step guide, that shows not only every single step, but tells you what pressure you need to airbrush this paint or that medium, how long drying time is required, when to add another coat of clear varnish - dull or gloss called out too, of course -, how and where to use chipping fluid and so on and on. Really neat stuff! Sample page:

 

howru-2m4kd8.jpg

 

You don't have to slavishly follow these instructions. It's just a guide. Add your own stuff you are familiar with instead of Ammo products you don't like. F. e. I use my trusty oil paints instead of Ammos oil brushers and do not use panel liners because they don't work for me. The results are still fine. Recommended! :thumbsup:

 

Regards

- dutik

 

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No updade tonight. Wrestled some hours with my airbrush to find the reason behind a series of malfunctions instead of painting the model. It boiled down to a really clogged nozzle, but I was not able to get it clean, at least not without ripping it apart. Final solution: I drowned the muzzle and the muzzle holder in a jar filled with airbrush cleaner and installed the other muzzle set. But then I was no longer in the mood for modelling. Well, it's New Years eve, so I take the choice to celebrate it :popcorn: :wicked:

 

Regards

- dutik

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s300v-16n3jk9.jpg

 

s300v-179djbl.jpg

 

Painted the camouflage pattern, the sand by airbrush, then thew black by hand. The wide black bands just covered the overspray and saved me from the need to mask the sand color.

 

s300v18f0j5j.jpg

 

Chipped the paint as appropriate. I did some paint touch-ups and reglued one of the tiny hooks at the air vent that broke off. Next stepp shall be some more chipping with sponge technique and micro painting and then a coate of clear varnish to get ready for the wheatering of the running gear area.

 

Regards

- dutik

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s300v-19uokjm.jpg

 

Lots of roadwheels. 7 per side, in total 28 wheels discs plus 14 centerpieces, not to forget two drive sprockets and two idlers and 12 return rollers. Also assembled two runs of tracks and started to paint them.

 

Regards

- dutik

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Here we go:

 

s300v-2013jm4.jpg

 

Just the upper runs. Track skirts follow soon. I'll keep wheels and lower track runs off to easy painting.

Track links are illfitting around the drive sprockets. The horn is to long and has to be sanded down as far as possible without completly eleminating the upper crossbar. The outer rim of rubber pads of the links interferes with the inner rim of the drive sprockest. Just cut off a bit of the edge of the rubber pads. Fit of the idler wheel to the axle is a bit wobbly. Watch for alignment while the glue cures.

 

Thats it so far. Used the tracks and the wheel wells to test some painting techniques. Drying time is on the helm now, so there are no more daily updates for the next time.

 

Regards

- dutik

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  • 2 weeks later...

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