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Canopy Clearing Method

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Posted (edited)

  1. Your first step is get some 600 grit sandpaper, 800 grit if you can but 600 will work. You can find these in your local hardware store. 

Now go to any car shop or Wall-Mart for some car polish. You know, like Turtle Wax or some other similar stuff. You don't even need the best of best. Just generic ones will do. I bought a rather large bottle (preferably in soft solid form, not liquid form).

Take your canopy or other clear parts that needs cleaning. First, use a hobby knife and scrape off the damaged or needed to clean up area. Be ULTRA careful with this part! If you accidentally remove a chunk, then it's all over!!! Then take your 600 or 800 grit paper and start sanding until the canopy area is smooth and and a cloudy opaque form.

Now it's time for the car wax. Dapple a bit on a soft clean slightly wet cloth and start rubbing the cloudy area of the canopy gently with a back and forth motion for about five minutes, afterward rinse with warm water. If you are not satisfied with the result, repeat the process until you are satisfied. Take a look at the canopy or any other clear part, it should look good as new!

 You should always keep a bottle of the car wax handy! It's not only good for removing canopy mold lines, but any dumb mistakes I end up doing! Cement smear? No problem! Remove, sand, clear! Good as new!


Scratches? No problem, sand clear viola! And also, if you are not satisfied with the transparency of your canopy or clear parts, dabble a little of this magic stuff, and then look at the result! This stuff works great and I'm never bothering with 1000 or 1200 grit sandpaper again!


Edited by Gigant

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Thanks, Tom! I hadn’t thought to use car polish before. In the past I used to use a sanding stick held perpendicular to the seam, then toothpaste. Later I switched out the toothpaste with the Novus system:https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-Plastic-Fine-Scratch-Remover/dp/B002UD0GGS


Cheers, Tom

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Hi Guys,


I bought a pack of Flory Sanding Sticks at IPMS Telford a couple of years back and I use those. For finishing they do a stick with blue one side, white the other. Blue first, buff until it squeaks like a mouse! Then the white. A couple of minutes and that’s it. None of that dipping in Future lark, just a polish with a corner of the tee shirt I happen to be wearing at the time. They’re all old and had lots of washing so the fibres are soft and polish really well.


Yes, I’ve got Tamiya polishing compounds but I use them for polishing airbrush needles. Believe me, that’s about the best modification you can do to any airbrush.




Bruce Crosby

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