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Sparzanza

A good matt varnish?

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IMHO, a lot of scale modelers are over-impressed by the "fancy-schmancy" high-end hardware shown off by so-called "experts".

 

Since I am not put off by the phrase "for beginners", here is the type I prefer to use the most:

 

31aem-46zKL._SR600%2C315_PIWhiteStrip%2C

...and it runs for about $13.00 on Amazon, and I have found it nearly impossible to clog:

 

https://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-SET-KIT-Single-Action-Siphon-Feed-External-Mix-Sunless/dp/B0017TRRG8

 

Also, I stick with the thinner that is provided with the name brand paint, since it is sold on the same shelf as the paint itself at stores like Hobby Lobby. I only add alcohol to alcohol type acrylic paints like Tamiya's, and before I do I give it the "sniff test" to make sure.

make sure what you buy is all metal and glass. I bought a cheap airbrush like this for touch-ups from Harbor freight when I was painting my Dart, and the lacquer thinner ate through the plastic bottles.  :hmmm:

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Are all the matt finishes we use varnish? 

In the art world varnish has been  used for hundreds of years to protect the oil paints of fine art. After a number of years the varnish darkens so it later has to be expensively removed to enable a person to see the original brilliant colors. 

Will this happen on our models?

Should we worry about it?

:hmmm:

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make sure what you buy is all metal and glass. I bought a cheap airbrush like this for touch-ups from Harbor freight when I was painting my Dart, and the lacquer thinner ate through the plastic bottles.  :hmmm:

 

I agree 100%!

 

The last one I picked up when I got a new Iwata trigger-action model from Hobby Lobby (with a 40% off coupon of course) was a Paasche for around $15.00 and has glass bottles and, like the picture above, metal fittings for the bottle-cap attachment. 

 

I then got a Sparmax TC-2000 compressor (with another 40% coupon, at the other Hobby Lobby store in town) @ $209.00. And it is equipped to connect and to hold both airbrushes at the same time-a no-brainer for me.

Edited by Gigant

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Are all the matt finishes we use varnish? 

In the art world varnish has been  used for hundreds of years to protect the oil paints of fine art. After a number of years the varnish darkens so it later has to be expensively removed to enable a person to see the original brilliant colors. 

Will this happen on our models?

Should we worry about it?

:hmmm:

 

No-I use flat colors whenever possible since they dry faster and are less likely to run.

Normally my finish coats are gloss or satin-seldom matt, which helps a lot to avoid the hassles.

 

Even the most oxidized aircraft finish will have a satin sheen on a nice brisk sunny morning when the morning dew is on the grass.

Edited by Gigant

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Sorry, I might have worded it a bit wrong. Maybe Humbrol 49 is not varnish?

 

And we are also to suppose that by "airbrush", you actually meant "hairbrush"? <_<

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And we are also to suppose that by "airbrush", you actually meant "hairbrush"? <_<

 

Sorry, it was meant as a reply to Steve. He had me confused as to whether Humbrol 49 is actually varnish. English is not my native language.

 

Are all the matt finishes we use varnish? 

In the art world varnish has been  used for hundreds of years to protect the oil paints of fine art. After a number of years the varnish darkens so it later has to be expensively removed to enable a person to see the original brilliant colors.

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Overall, in the art world, "varnish" refers to a clear, transparent coating, usually gloss or shiny, meant to prevent oxidation and deterioration of the colors used for a painting, or to protect and preserve the finish on a piece of wooden furniture.

 

In our scale modeling world, we have altered/adapted clear coats (varnishes) to be glossy, dull or semi-glossy (satin) finishes for the photo-effect more then simply preserving the paint's color shades.

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So,

a discussion about airbrushes

a discussion about what varnish is or is not

plenty of advice on acrylics which was not asked for

 

Does anyone actually have an answer? Did I miss that?

 

I wish I could help but I only use acrylics.

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So,

a discussion about airbrushes

a discussion about what varnish is or is not

plenty of advice on acrylics which was not asked for

 

Does anyone actually have an answer? Did I miss that?

 

I wish I could help but I only use acrylics.

 

Sticking to Humbrol 49 I guess. I also have some of their Matt Cote in the glass jar left that I will try later. It works well provided one spends copious amounts of time stirring and shaking.

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Ive never EVER been an acrylic guy, so for me, from experience absolutely NOTHING shoots smoother or more evenly without clogging and dries rock hard more than MM's lacquer clear flat. It's what I used overall on my SU. It dries dead and I mean DEAD flat, and havent had a bottle go butt to the sky on my yet.

 

However........

Having just recently found out how awesome MRP lacquer acrylics work, I just got in two bottles of their semi-gloss, and two bottles of their flat. I havent shot with them yet but it they work like their paints they will be nothing but a joy to use. And in the plus side, I can now also use all the enamel washes and effects from ALI/MIG that I have as well.

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Thanks Brian. I am a bit hesitant towards lacquers after my 1/24 Hurricane build, but I will keep this in mind for my next payday.

Really it's only the carrier and smell. The particulate is all acrylic and performs same.

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Guest Maxim

I use my trusty Badger 200 for clear coats. and my H&S Infinity for the details work. If I use an acrylic I thin it with Tamiya Lacquer thinners. Actually I thin all acrylics with the Tamiya Lacquer thinners.I like Gunze the best when I have to use an acrylic. Dead flat finish and dries within minutes. As Brian said the MM Lacquer flat and clear are really great and are my next go to for larger jobs.

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I use my trusty Badger 200 for clear coats. and my H&S Infinity for the details work. If I use an acrylic I thin it with Tamiya Lacquer thinners. Actually I thin all acrylics with the Tamiya Lacquer thinners.I like Gunze the best when I have to use an acrylic. Dead flat finish and dries within minutes. As Brian said the MM Lacquer flat and clear are really great and are my next go to for larger jobs.

 

In the past, on a single build, I have used MM's for all of these:

  1. MM flat enamels for base colors, because their solvent based paint thinner more "rugged" for surface adhesion and light wet-sanding.
  2. MM flat acrylics for camouflage scheme darker colors and bright color trims over the enamel base colors.
  3. MM gloss acrylic clear-coat for both preparing decal application areas and over-coating.
  4. MM lacquer for a final clear-coat.

For the record Humbrol 49 is an enamel varnish which from my experience would never use for anything, especially since it's thinner/solvent can damage expensive decals.

 

The reason for the airbrush discussion is to help Sparzana realize he can get a simpler, cheaper airbrush to use for varnishes and base-coats only.

Edited by Gigant

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