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Revell/Lodela 1/32 Typhoon MK1B


Shawn M

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Guest Peterpools

Hi Shawn

I just finished looking at the Tiffy's colors after a quick round in Photoshop and to my eye both the green and gray appear a bit on the dark side. I'm pretty sure the dark hue has a lot to do with the black mottle base coats for the weathering which looks great.

Just my two cents worth

Keep 'em coming

Peter

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Hi Shawn,

I picked this photo on Wiki and it seems to show well the relation between the green and the gray.

Also the slight difference between the top gray and underside gray colors.

 

xRCbFoE.jpg

 

Here is a pic of the Monogram Typhoon I made and it could help you also I hope. I noticed the green isn't so dark on this model so your green could be very close.

 

Y67hqif.jpg

 

I think it is a good idea to change the gray first, then you can evaluate if the green is OK or needs to be darkened a bit.

 

Alain

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Guest Peterpools

Shawn

Looking mighty good and the mottling in the cammo comes through awesomely.

Keep 'em coming

Peter

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Thanks Peter!

 

Im going to try future as my gloss coat on this for the first time, cross your fingers!

Should really come to life once the weathering begins as well (my fav part)

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I've used Future for years as my gloss coat. A coat of Future, put my decals down, another coat of Future to seal it, and then my Dull coat. Never had any issues with it. You can shoot and a 1/2 hour later, put your decals down. Let the decals cure for 24 hours, then another coat of Future. Wait a 1/2 hour, and shoot you Dull coat. If you do panel lines, use a very thinned brownish/black enamel paint to accomplish that. Do it after you seal the decals with Future. Then shoot your Dull coat. Also, since some planes have a satin sheen to them, this stuff is perfect for achieving it. It is self leveling and I use it pure strength, never diluted. Cleans up with tap water. I use hot tap water, personally. Don't be afraid to use a good sable brush to brush Future on with. This works as well. Future is some neat stuff!

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