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Model cleaning question


CATCplSlade

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So I was building myself a new bookshelf down in my cave and while atop a step ladder noticed my LSPs needed dusting. However, this isn't just plain, easy to brush away, dust. It is mixed with yellow pine pollen, humidity, and whatever else floats in the Georgia air because my basement is not connected to the house AC system; I currently have to rely on fans and windows to keep it cool, although I can't run a fan directly in my room due to all the air traffic - so the air stagnates a bit. Apparently this has made the pollen/whatever-dust mixture a little sticky so blowing, feather-dusting, or wiping with a dry cloth does not get but the most recent layer; the rest is tacky. As far as my kits, all of my planes are at the least coated in Future/acrylic and most also with matte/satin finish sprays, so those are the surfaces to be dealt with.

 

Thus the purpose of this thread: what might I be able to use to remove this gunk without harming the models? Could a mildly soapy gentle wash work although some areas will be difficult (Like my Beaufighter's night flying gear in all its thin brittle glory?) or should I try plain water first? I doubt any glass cleaners would work as they come with gunk already preloaded so no point in throwing wood in the fire - especially concerning the Future coat. What about those flushable baby wipes, especially the unscented no aloe versions? What might those do to the paint/finish?

 

Any ideas? Its not the worst thing in the world as all my LSPs are hanging from my ceiling but they are angled so the upper surfaces can be seen somewhat and the dust is starting to make them look faded.

 

TIA

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Without an airtight display case, this is really everyone's problem. 

Will check on some "what to do's" (I usually do the mild soap/water with q-tips, and a wipe), but can say without reservation a "what not to do" 

is to avoid anything with Ammonia in it, like the window cleaner you mentioned. Ammonia dissolves or strips Future.

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Water is the universal solvent.  I have immersed them in water and let them soak.  The amount of build-up determines whether the time is long; hours, or short: for an hour.

 

Then I've wiped them off with a fan brush, my all-purpose cleaning brush, while still immersed, in running water.  Running water will clear away the residue so you can see your progress.

 

Once completed, I've dried them off with paper towels, cotton buds, and with the compressor hose or air brush.  The air pressure is good to get water out from the inside.  Air-drying may leave water spots.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

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Water is the universal solvent. I have immersed them in water and let them soak. The amount of build-up determines whether the time is long; hours, or short: for an hour.

 

Then I've wiped them off with a fan brush, my all-purpose cleaning brush, while still immersed, in running water. Running water will clear away the residue so you can see your progress.

 

Once completed, I've dried them off with paper towels, cotton buds, and with the compressor hose or air brush. The air pressure is good to get water out from the inside. Air-drying may leave water spots.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

remember to use purified water.
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I've cleaned old dust-covered with models with dish-washing liquid and water with no ill effects.  I first rinse the model with water, then use an old soft tootbrush to get the hard spots clean, then rinse again.  I shake the water off and let the model air-dry.  Cured arylic paint will not be harmed by the use of water.

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I just wash mine under running water with a soft 1" paint brush and mild soap. Rinse and let air dry. Properly sealed decals should not wash off, though I have had a few come off. Be sure to put a stopper in the drain for the occasional wheel or antennae you knock off. Cured acrylic paint will not be affected by the water.  

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