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  1. Per my post of this week, I have had a lot of problems with my first attempts. The You Tube reviews imply perfect results if you follow the instructions, which are rather vague. One sheet I believe is totally defective with the rivets floating off when you remove the film after soaking. It may be a matter of how old the sheet is. Anything I have tried to apply bigger than about an inch has left part of the rivets on the film. One sheet of square access panels has performed well. So apparently if you get them fresh from the factory, have exactly the right gloss finish, rub them down until they are dry, wait 12 hours and carefully peel the film you might get lucky.
  2. I thought after watching reviews on youtube that the HGW rivet sets would be the perfect answer to riveting. I have tried the access panel sets and had no luck at all. The reviews seem to be confused about leaving the paper oversheet on or peeling it off before soaking. I peeled it off as I cant see through it to trim or position them. The first set went on fine but letting it dry overnight when I peeled the "foil" ,which looks like film to me, half the rivets stayed on it and half on the model. The surface was Tamiya fine white primer and quite smooth. The second set I tried, again removing the paper overcoat, dissolved in the water with the rivets floating off. Am I missing something in these glowing reviews?
  3. Speaking of "hard" thinners, does anyone know what the Testors "Dried acrylic paint solvent" is? It is about the only thing that will remove dried acrylic. Is it run of the mill lacquer thinner or something else?
  4. I would have to agree with the old Williams brothers kits. I built the Sparrowhawk kit (being from Macon, I had to!) Despite some reports of it being hard to build I don't remember having any problems, especially for my first bi-plane. Only problem it now the stupid decals have turned orange!
  5. Has anyone had problems with the plastic dental brushes melting in lacquer type thinners? I just wonder if it could leave a residue.
  6. I haven't seen it addressed anywhere so I thought I'd ask here. Has anyone decided that Scalemaster decals are junk. They look great at first, but every model painted white that I used them on several years ago have turned orange. It's not the Tamiya white paint or overcoat, as many have suggested, but the decals themselves, or I think, the adhesive. Some sheets have turned orange in the box. Makes me wary of using the old minicraft-hasegawa kits from the 80s that had them, such as the TA-4J and even roll-out F16. Is there any way to improve them, such as rinsing off most of the adhesive, or how about the old bleaching them in the sun trick? Or should I just chuck them?
  7. Lucky, I have one stashed but I want to get another one (VA-86 and VA-72 off the Nimitz) I can't help wonder how hard it can be to get someone to vacuform the canopies if you have the master. Is it some strange undercut that no body can get right?
  8. I just wash mine under running water with a soft 1" paint brush and mild soap. Rinse and let air dry. Properly sealed decals should not wash off, though I have had a few come off. Be sure to put a stopper in the drain for the occasional wheel or antennae you knock off. Cured acrylic paint will not be affected by the water.
  9. I'd love a RA-5C along with an EA6B to complete my Nimitz 1976 air wing in 1/32. Oh yeah, and a Seaking. Now if we can only get some aftermarket VA 35 decals for the A6E! I want hold out for a E2B, I wouldn't have anyplace to put it anyway.


    While I agree with some of the problems with magazines, I have to wonder, and often ask the "youngsters" who brag about getting everything for "free" on the internet; "Where do you plan to earn a living?" The death of another industry is the loss of many careers for future generations. I still don't see how the internet is going to support everybody. Oh, I forgot, they are all going to start the next Facebook, then sell it for a trillion dollars and retire.
  11. Been needing one for years. It would depend on cost and if Dragon gets around to doing one like they did in 1/48th
  12. Their primary use seems to be for replacing broken gear, but I assume they are a bit stronger than plastic. I got the one for the F5E since the fragile little nose gear broke at the fork. It seems it did have the mold lines cleaned up pretty well.
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