phasephantomphixer Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 a tail sitter without nose weight? I searched around a bit and only found builds with no mention, and don't have the kit out to look through it at the moment - Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark P Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 And what about landing gear? A heavy model to begin with, made worse with the addition of ballast. I assume G-Factor the best bet for replacement landing gear for this model? In my opinion, metal landing gear supplied by other manufacturers, cast in white metal, sag over time. Not a great solution to a heavy model. I also believe the length of the landing gear and the likelihood that the model would wobble increases the chances of snapping the plastic legs supplied in the model. I would further assume some kind of cyano glue to attach the metal landing gear? Epoxy? With the resin aftermarket pieces available to correct the tail surfaces on the Trumpeter kit, more weight an issue with increased likelihood of tail stance. Any opinions welcome... Mark Proulx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Youngtiger1 Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 Erik, yep it a tail sitter if no nose weight used. A friend just build one and he had to use good amount of lead. Of course, metal gears are a must with the nose weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phasephantomphixer Posted January 8, 2014 Author Share Posted January 8, 2014 Erik, yep it a tail sitter if no nose weight used. A friend just build one and he had to use good amount of lead. Of course, metal gears are a must with the nose weight. So I need to add Lead to this Sled? Maybe the Trumpeter kit is more accurate than presumed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 Both correct. Much nose weight and G-Factor legs( they are the best)...........Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 And if you use the corrected resin tail, you might as well cast the front fuselage from tungsten. Really need to get that nose down. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phasephantomphixer Posted January 8, 2014 Author Share Posted January 8, 2014 And if you use the corrected resin tail, you might as well cast the front fuselage from tungsten. Really need to get that nose down. Matt Yes, very good point-double edged sword there. No real way to thin such a piece even if in halves as the resin would be too thin. Would be great if there was a light weight resin. Maybe remove plastic where possible aft of the mains. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Bellis Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 (edited) As the others have said, it does need nose weight OOB. More nose weight with just the resin fin/rudder, less nose weight with a resin cockpit. My F-105D is in the process of getting the basic camo sprayed on, but I haven't mocked it all up to add the required nose weight, yet. I'll do that next, before attaching the radome. The kit's landing gear aren't very strong. SAC's gear are primitive and the white metal they're made of has proven to sag over time. G-Factor's bronze legs are really nice. A pic to illustrate the differences in casting quality: You can see the one flaw in the G Factor gear that is the small piece for the nose gear iasn't fully cast (on the right branch of the small parts' spue). The kit's part will be used for this piece, so it isn't a big deal to me. HTH, D Edited January 8, 2014 by D Bellis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phasephantomphixer Posted January 8, 2014 Author Share Posted January 8, 2014 Yes, Ernies "Real metal" gear is the way to go - lookit the thicker wheel spindle even. Those SAC ones will snap no problem. Thanks for weight info all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 Yes, very good point-double edged sword there. No real way to thin such a piece even if in halves as the resin would be too thin. Would be great if there was a light weight resin. Maybe remove plastic where possible aft of the mains. Or a possible way to cast the front fuselage in metal. I guess you could leave all of the detail off of the engine, and just use the afterburner tube, but that could weaken the structure at the back end. The design of the Thud really puts a lot of weight over the rear, especially with a resin tail fin. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaiyudsai Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 G factor makes the best landing gear IMHO.... I really dont like SAC gear... its too soft... and lacks the crisp detail I like, I use the trumpeter zinc metal gear when they provide it.... ir the combination metal/ plastic gear usually holds well too... you can always drill out the plastic gear and insert metal, then use the polished metal surface as the OLEO..... I have done this method before... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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