Second Attempt at HKM B-17G With Some Minor Improvements.

[plane_mc]

Very nice SD, looking good.

[Silver Dollar]

Thanks Mark.  What gets me now is the fact that I still have the nose, waist and tail section to compete and then I've got to go do the same thing to the other side of the fuselage.  Will it ever end??  Tune in next time for the Perils of Silver Dollar brought to you by our sponsor, HK Models.  

[Silver Dollar]

I think I've just about put everything I want into the starboard side of the tunnel.  I'll try to tuck the brown wire down a bit more so it won't look so squirrely.  I also took a black and white shot of the same area to see how it would look if it were taken in 1944.  I'll do the black and white thing again shooting through the bombardier's hatch.  More to come.  

[Ironwing]

Dollar,

 

Your attention to detail goes well beyond tne mortal. Superb work.

 

Best

Geoff

[Silver Dollar]

Thanks Geoff.  It's builders like yourself who inspire me to push that envelope.  You do it with great results and make it look easy.  

[Silver Dollar]

And we have the other side.  At first, I was thinking of just levying the port side undone because you can't see it from the front hatch.  Then I found that you can see a lot through the hatch leading to the nose.  I also put in the wooden floor but that will be cemented later.  Now on to finish the bomb bay.

[Silver Dollar]

Still banging away at the interior.  It took me a while to open the "back door" and get it back to original dimensions. 

[Silver Dollar]

I did some foiling and I made an ammo box out of thin birch plywood normally used for RC aircraft construction.  The paint is gloss clear acrylic with a few drops of medium brown paint.  The clear acrylic dilutes the paint so you can easily see the grain through it.  If you dilute the paint with water, you run the risk of increased warpage and wood swelling.  After the first coat of the clear and color, I cover the whole thing in one or two more coats of straight gloss clear, let dry 24 hours and then lightly sand and polish for a more scale varnished wood surface.  

 

[Guest]

GEEEEEZZZ......Harv  

[brahman104]

Hey SD, I apologize I haven't commented on your build lately, but it sure is looking good! Good job on persevering with it too! I took my fuse out of the bag this arvo and had a look at it next to the monogram kit, man, she's a big girl! I think I'm going to have to do some serious planning on this one. Thanks always for the updates, it's really goof to see how these kits come together.

 

Keep up the great work mate!

 

Craig

[Silver Dollar]

Thanks guys.  Craig, don't ever apologize for not commenting.  It's never required at all.  I post pictures only to document the build, to share what I've done with the rest of the group and hopefully to pick up any building tips that come along.  I've never been much of an egotist since my ego was destroyed in high school.  (Yes, I was a science nerd and had to sit at the nerd lunch table )  

[Guest Peterpools]

SD

Awesome detail work, simply amazing.

Keep 'em coming

Peter

[Silver Dollar]

Thanks Peter.  The green on some of the stringers will be painted over with flat aluminum.  I just didn't like the way the green looked.  

[Ironwing]

Dollar,

 

I can now see we've entered into a slow contest to see who can take the longest to build something. That said, you continue to amaze me with the details your adding. I suggest you've departed the world of modelling and entered into the world of exact replication. Keep hammering...it gets more impressive with each update.

 

Best,

 

Geoff

[Silver Dollar]

Thanks Geoff.  I only get about 2 hours per day to go into the workshop so the building can get really slow.  If I try to go any faster, I get really sloppy.