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Mustang...1/18nth Scale


Ironwing

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Guest Peterpools

Geoff

Way too hard on yourself. Peter's idea of burnishing the panels to remove the quitting should work fine and the rivets surely looked the part. believe me, it's incredible work

Keep 'em coming

Peter

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I guess I'm a bit late to the party, probably because I'm not a prop guy. But man, what did I miss. Fantastic work and more metal mania!

 

Looking forward to the next installment.

 

Cheers

Rainer

Rainer,

 

Always good to hear from you. Metalmania is alive and well...join in!

 

Thanks much...

Geoff

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Geoff

Way too hard on yourself. Peter's idea of burnishing the panels to remove the quitting should work fine and the rivets surely looked the part. believe me, it's incredible work

Keep 'em coming

Peter

Hey Bud,

 

The problem with burnishing is that it would leave behind a surface I've already taken a dislike to..plus.. they'll get ruined when I take them off. The tail surface details were the first attempt. The fuselage surface detail came afterwards which, I think looks far more realistic. It's more time consuming, and the slightest error spells doom for the part, but the end item, IMHO, is worth it.

 

On a personal note, thank you for your kind thoughts and and moral support Bud.

 

Best

Geoff

Edited by Ironwing
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Guest Peterpools

Hi Geoff

I'm right behind you, all the way. Your quest for perfection is understood and you surely will be there.  Just wish I had your patience, skill and drive for such demanding work.

Keep ;em coming

peter

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Hi Geoff

I'm right behind you, all the way. Your quest for perfection is understood and you surely will be there.  Just wish I had your patience, skill and drive for such demanding work.

Keep ;em coming

peter

Pete,

 

You have every bit the patience and skill. I'll send you some aluminum...give it s go.

 

"keepem cumin"

 

G

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Greetings All,

 

I think Ive recovered from the tussle with the fuselage skin. The next step, which Ive been "head building" for a bit, will be the tail plane skins. It isnt as complex as the fuselage skin, but, as Ive tried to point out, keeping things straight is of utmost importance. Ask any machinist, and he'll tell you; the setup is the most important aspect of any job. 

 

With that in mind, The set up is relatively simple. However, despite its simplicity, it serves as as the main reference for everything. The most important aspect is the straight edge of the metal scale. Its leading edge is the lateral reference line. The perpendicular line is provided by a triangle fashioned from card stock. The ninety of the triangle is set to a machinists square for accuracy. All rivet lines run parallel and perpendicular to the reference plane which is the TE of the H stab formed by the metal edge.

 

To begin, a mechanically matched set of templates are made of the upper port and starboard stab skins. These will be used to scribe the shapes onto the aluminum sheet.

 

IMG_1098.jpg

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The metal edge is securely fastened to the aluminum sheet. Its important that the metal edge not move at all. If it moves or creeps the resulting rivet lines will go off commensurately. The TE line is scribed in and the templates are then put in place and secured. The template outlines can now be scribed in

 

IMG_1104_1.jpg

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The metal edge remains in place for the entire riveting process.A second metal edge will be used to work the lateral rivet lines and the triangle to work the perpendicular lines.

 

The perpendicular rivet runs will be run past the scribed line at the LE into the plain aluminum sheet. This to ensure that the rivet lines match the lines on the stab skin.

 

IMG_1107_1.jpg

 

IMG_1110.jpg

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Massively inspiring Geoff!

 

I like your setup and tips for the alignment. I'm learning so much from every post. I can't remember if I asked it before, but would you mind including a pic of how you use the comparator to space the rivets when you do them next please?

 

Cheers,

 

Craig

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Massively inspiring Geoff!

 

I like your setup and tips for the alignment. I'm learning so much from every post. I can't remember if I asked it before, but would you mind including a pic of how you use the comparator to space the rivets when you do them next please?

 

Cheers,

 

Craig

Hi Craig,

 

Glad youre following along.

 

To clarify...I dont use the comparator to set the rivet detail. The comparator is used to set the straight edge. Rivet pitch is set by the graduations along the straight edge. Ill do some pics to demonstrate.

 

Thanks for looking in and your interest.

 

Best

Geoff

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I am no longer able to tell what I should call you. A machinist or a modeler?  What about machineler? Or Modelinist? At this point in my life,I want to make perfect stuff on my modeling bench but  all that comes out of me is a voice shouting "Hey you kids, get off my lawn" !!!!

J

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Awesome! Thanks Geoff. Looking forward to the pics :)

 

Craig,

 

 This is for you...

 

* A line is scribed along the metal edge the entire span of the stab. This creates the TE. and the primary reference line.

*The stab templates are then placed and fixed with tape to the metal edge.

*The stab templates are then scribed on the sheet aluminum. Once traced onto the sheet, they are removed.

* A perpendicular center line is the scribed on between the two stab halves.

* Rib locations are then penciled in perpendicular to the TE reference line and equal distance outboard from the perpendicular center line. Note that the rivet          lines extend beyond the LE     of the stab with the exception of the outer most rib rivet line. This rivet line does not go out onto the leading edge as the inboard    four do.

* The three lateral spars are penciled in parallel to the TE reference.

 

The metal edge can now be removed. The next step will be to set the rivet line along the TE. The comparator will now be used to reset the metal edge that the TE rivet line and subsequent lateral rivet lines will follow.

 

Note the scribed lines outside the scribed form of the H Stab. These are the alignment marks for the metal edge when applying the lateral rivet lines. Theyer also along the top and bottom but hard to see in the photo.

 

HTH

 

Best

Geoff

 

IMG_1116.jpg

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I am no longer able to tell what I should call you. A machinist or a modeler?  What about machineler? Or Modelinist? At this point in my life,I want to make perfect stuff on my modeling bench but  all that comes out of me is a voice shouting "Hey you kids, get off my lawn" !!!!

J

:rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:

 

JR, you slay me..

 

G

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