Budman Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Has anyone tried this? Does it work? Thanks, Bud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cunumdrum61 Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 (edited) Alclad will work only with the Tamiya lacquer acrylics from their spray can range. Their standard acrylics in the bottles will not work as the lacquer is much hotter than the acrylic. I did test it once and it cracked as I expected it would. If you attempt it, try it on a scrap piece and let it dry for a couple of days before you use the Alclad. It may work for you but I do not like your chances. Edited May 3, 2012 by Cunumdrum61 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daywalker Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 I have sprayed Alclad white aluminum, jet exhaust, pale burnt metal, and burnt iron over Tamiya acrylics. I did not use any kind of barrier between them either. However, I tried duraluminum and it did not work at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Matt Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 A technique I've heard is to use the acrylic as a primer and to ensure its highly polished. Then you can go over with your alclad metals. Uses up a lot of polishers though. Personally I prefer the gloss black Alclad2 primer/filler as a base under metals...it makes a massive difference to the 'sheen' but I only discovered this more recently after having used Grey alclad2 primer for years (its much easier to use and it fries super fast). Whilst some don't I tend to prime my models with either Mr Surfacer,Tamiya surfacer or Alclad primer...I rest easy that my acrylics don't chip or come off. Others may clean their models more thoroughly prior to painting or have freshed batches of paint/use a hotter thinners etc. They get great results so its not like there is one way to 'skin the cat'. (sorry...Aussie slang) Matty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreiner Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Most definitely it'll work, Bud. I've always used Tamiya Acrylic Gloss Black as my primer for "Polished Aluminum" and "Chrome" shades of Alclad. Let me know if you'd like some pics. I think I could dig some up. Best.... John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
do335b6 Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 If you spray the clear Alclad primer over the Tamiya there is no issues at all, done it many times Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cunumdrum61 Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 Most definitely it'll work, Bud. I've always used Tamiya Acrylic Gloss Black as my primer for "Polished Aluminum" and "Chrome" shades of Alclad. Let me know if you'd like some pics. I think I could dig some up. Best.... John Do you use the acrylic gloss black from the bottle or the Tamiya spray cans? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 Do you use the acrylic gloss black from the bottle or the Tamiya spray cans? The spray cans are all lacquer-based, so it can't be them. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cunumdrum61 Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 The spray cans are all lacquer-based, so it can't be them. Kev Kev, I use the Tamiya Lacquer based Gloss Black spray before Alclad II. Their lacquer based paints do not effect the plastic at all. Tamiya lacquer thinner will also not harm plastic and you can use it even to remove paint which I have done and also Mr. Surfacer much quicker than alcohol. I also thin all my acrylics, Gunze,Polly Scale, Tamiya etc, with it and they lay down really smooth and dry quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgreiner Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 (edited) From the bottle (acrylic), thinned with Tamiya acrylic thinner about 50/50 ratio. I've been doing this on all of my Polished Aluminum (any polished or shiny) jobs for years now (at least 10) and have yet to experience any cracking that some people swear will happen. Maybe I've been lucky, but until I experience something bad, I'm going to keep riding that horse. Here's a pic of a 1/48 Academy P-47N I did (at least 10 yrs ago) using Tamiya acrylic (bottle) gloss black as my primer for the Alclad Polished Aluminum. John Edited May 5, 2012 by jgreiner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 Kev, I use the Tamiya Lacquer based Gloss Black spray before Alclad II. Their lacquer based paints do not effect the plastic at all. Tamiya lacquer thinner will also not harm plastic and you can use it even to remove paint which I have done and also Mr. Surfacer much quicker than alcohol. I also thin all my acrylics, Gunze,Polly Scale, Tamiya etc, with it and they lay down really smooth and dry quickly. Yeah mate, I know. What I was getting at was that Tamiya don't do 'acrylic gloss black' in a rattle can, so the answer to your question "Do you use the acrylic gloss black from the bottle or the Tamiya spray cans?" is that if acrylic gloss black was mentioned, then it can't be from a rattle can. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cunumdrum61 Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Yeah mate, I know. What I was getting at was that Tamiya don't do 'acrylic gloss black' in a rattle can, so the answer to your question "Do you use the acrylic gloss black from the bottle or the Tamiya spray cans?" is that if acrylic gloss black was mentioned, then it can't be from a rattle can. Kev Kev, they do in fact. TS-14 Gloss Black in the spray can for plastics. Lacquer based. Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Kev, they do in fact. TS-14 Gloss Black in the spray can for plastics. Lacquer based. Cheers, We're talking at cross purposes mate. TS-14 isn't an 'acrylic gloss black'; it's lacquer-based as you say yourself. The OP mentioned using 'acrylic gloss black', which rules out Tamiya's rattle cans as they're all lacquer-based, not acrylic. That's all I was trying to say! Technically Tamiya's AS and TS ranges are known as synthetic acrylic lacquers, but I really don't know exactly what that means. I do know, though, that the term 'acrylic' has been misused in modelling as a synonym for 'water based', which it isn't. Most are water soluble to a degree though. I really don't know what the actual technical definition of 'acrylic' is for paint technologies. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Matt Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 I do know, though, that the term 'acrylic' has been misused in modelling as a synonym for 'water based', which it isn't. Most are water soluble to a degree though. I really don't know what the actual technical definition of 'acrylic' is for paint technologies. Kev Yeah too right. I was looking up which thinners to use in my Gunze paints and also trying to understand what was what within their paint range. Sheesh there were a few threads on other modelling sites where it was testy...a large part due to confusion and loose definitions. I did have a clear understanding but then my brain hurt and I forgot...pain is gone too. Tricky area. Cheers Matty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Brown Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 I've used Tamiya's lacquer-based rattle can gloss black without any problems. I recently tried a friend's method of using a mix of 30% Tamiya gloss black acrylic and 70% Metalizer thinner as a base for Alclad. I used Alclad White Aluminum and regular Aluminum over it, and didn't have any problems at all, and the results were some of the best natural metal finishes I've had in a long time. The black dries very fast. I started painting a 1/48 F-105, holding it by the radome and painting the tail. By the time I'd worked my way down to the nose, the tail was dry enough to hold the model by. The next day, I sprayed the Alclad on lightly, as I would do over any primer, and it didn't effect the underlying paint at all. YMMV, but the Tamiya/Alclad combo is my new favorite natural metal method. Also, the Metalizer thinner works great with Gunze's acrylics and Model Master enamels. Gloss MM enamels are dry to the touch in just a few minutes, instead of days. I still need to try it with Xtracolor. Won't work with Xtracrylics or Acryls, though. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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