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Dragon Mustang


JimInOz

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Hi gents, no build log for this one :( ( A tad too busy but it is finished!) and I haven't posted a lot up lately. A Fair bit of artistic liscense with regard to the aircrafts scheme, but you will not see too many of these done up like this one, so at least it's different. I need to make a gunsight reflector for her, as the shed floor now owns the one that came with the kit B) Fire when ready! Cheers fellas. Jim :rolleyes:

Stang1013.jpg

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Looks sensational Jim, and you're right, quite different from the 'normal' Mustang. I can't see any excessive rivetting in the photo - did you deal with it, or does the camouflage paint subdue the effect?

 

Kev

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Hey Jim;

 

Nice build.

 

My wife and I were looking at it, when I jumped up grabbed an old SAM magazine I had looked at a few days previous and said that looked familiar.

 

The picture is of a P 51K (Mk IV) of 35 Sqn RAAF, Italy 1945 a/c code CV-P (spurious markings of course).

 

This is a P 51 on the Aussie Air circuit (picture dated circa 1999)

 

Where did you get your inspiration from?

 

Got to love the Southern Cross on the rudder!! :(

 

Alan

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Hi Jimbo, mate you've done a super job on this Aussie 'stang. Great work! How I would have wished to see some progress shots but hey, you get that, don't ya? :rolleyes:

 

How'd you find the kit? All go together alright? Did you have to do any extra work to improve anything?

 

Anyway thanks for sharing

 

Ango

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Thanks Fellas, I will try and deal with the questions 1 at a time:

Big Kev, I have to agree that the paint job does tone down the "detail". However the method that helped the most was applying several coats of Future over the initial paint job and decals. This has built up in the ressesed surfaces and lessened their depth physically. I then applied quite a matt flat coat over the top of the whole plane which lessens the visual depth of the gloss clear coats. And as you have said the cammo job also helps trick the eye and makes the detail look less obvious. If I do another one I would lean more toward a Mr Surfacer type product, a couple of coats of that would work just as well.

 

Ango Mango, much has been written, said, yelled, commented on etc. etc. etc. about this kit. The first thing I will mention is the price of this kit. I do not know of too many kits that give you so much bang for your buck. The kit I used was a later offering from Dragon which includes all the original decals fretts etc, but also includes an extra set of decals for the "Snifter".The collared or cuffed prop just doesn't look right and the vynal tyres are atrocious. (I am sure that Cammet or someone else will rectify these shortcomings shortly with aftermaket.)If not you could rob the wheels and tyres from and old Revell kit. The fit of the kit is good with exception of the windshield. This can be rectified by some sanding. There is a seam down the middle of the canopy which again can be polished out. You need to ditch the springs out of the Oleos so that the brake lines fit, no biggy as mine was displayed "bombed up" and would be low on her legs anyway. If you proceed using patience, (in my opinion the greatest of all modelling skills) and are prepared to do some minor work there is nothing in this kit that is insurmountable. :rolleyes:

 

LSD, got the inspiration at my Local Hobby shop when I spied a set of Decals for Various Aussie Stangs, Mine should be a K by the way :lol:

 

Hope that goes some way to answer your questions Fellas, thanks again for the beaut comments. Cheers. Jim

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Thanks Fellas, I will try and deal with the questions 1 at a time:

Big Kev, I have to agree that the paint job does tone down the "detail". However the method that helped the most was applying several coats of Future over the initial paint job and decals. This has built up in the ressesed surfaces and lessened their depth physically. I then applied quite a matt flat coat over the top of the whole plane which lessens the visual depth of the gloss clear coats. And as you have said the cammo job also helps trick the eye and makes the detail look less obvious. If I do another one I would lean more toward a Mr Surfacer type product, a couple of coats of that would work just as well.

 

Thanks for the info Jim. I'm wondering whether a thickish layer of Future underneath the top coats might also be effective? You'd have to leave it cure for long enough to become impervious to top coats, but it might be an easier method to get the job done than filler, especially if you're happy with a reduction in effect rather than complete elimination. Anyway, just a thought.

 

Kev

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