Earl

Despite what my wife might say, price is always a factor. I voted yes as I just got the Kingfisher kit and as I don't do water very well the catapult is a natural.

For years I've used a quality automotive lacquer thinner with Tamiya and Gunze acrylics, Model Master, and a few select Humbrol colors. Works great and cleans up with Windex or Walmart glass cleaner. Just squirt the glass cleaner thru the air brush and rinse under the sink. Be careful with Humbrol as the combination with some Humbrol colors such as black will end up as jelly. I do model cars with PPG and old DuPont acrylic lacquer. I never buy Lowe's lacquer thinner as what they advertize as lacquer thinner might work with acrylics or enamel, it won't blend or clean up genuine lacquer. I also use a variety of Tamiya rattle cans either out of the can or decanted applied with the airbrush. Although the better lacquer thinner at $16 might require a larger investment, a gallon goes a long way when it comes to cleaning up and incorporating plastic milk jugs for saving used lacquer thinner. Earl

Well done Chris. Thanks for sharing as it's always a pleasure to view your work. Earl

A great build Ron, quickly and extremely well done. My kit should arrive this week so many thanks for sharing your experience. Earl

Fanch, Your SBD with that paint and weathering has to be absolutely one of the most realistic models I have ever seen. Thanks for taking the time to share it all with us. Earl

Both those models are extremely well done and I especially like that B & W photo. Thanks for sharing and you have me thinking my old FW-190 kit has been gathering dust too long. Earl

Andy -- your Spit is looking very good. Earl

Andy, That is really looking good. As a fellow member of the Trump Spit building fraternity, I tip my hat to a job well done. Despite my honorable intentions, I too will hide the engine behind the panel. I’m looking forward to seeing more photos of a job well done. Earl

I like your style Gustav -- great work and I'm looking forward to what your going to come up with next. Cheers, Earl

Hello Jean, Your work is absolutely first class. I'm looking forward to your updates for inspiration as I drag along with my Trumpy Vb. Earl

I keep my CA bottles next to the mustard and pickles in the fridge as well. But, for debonding I use regular acetone from the hardware store at far less cost than the debonder from the hobby shops. I have a glass jar with acetone on my workbench and after using the small applicator nozzles, I remove them from the glue container and replace the solid cap. The thin applicator nozzles go in the jar of acetone. When it's time to glue, I pull out the nozzle with tweezers, the acetone evaporates in seconds and the nozzle is clear for use. Works like a charm ever time. As the glue bottles give out, I keep the old nozzles so my jar usually has a small collection of nozzles to choose from. I use acetone for debonding parts or even dumping PE parts in the jar and let the acetone do the job. A word of caution, acetone evaporates like crazy so don't forget to put the lid back on ASAP. Also make sure you use tweezers and don't get too curious about how much the fumes can smell. Earl

I offer a hearty second for EZ Line. Not only is it a great product, but the folks selling are solid gold. They were about to go on holidays when I called to place the order, but they shipped the product out before they received my check! Earl

Thanks for the explanation Edgar. I never knew the exact reason why or by how much the nose grew longer. I have the old Hawker Hurricane Classic Aircraft No. 4 dealing with their history and how to model the Airfix kit by Robertson and Scarborough where I was able to locate photos of both engines with the changes you mentioned. Andy, this book has several illustrated pages on how to deal with the Airfix Merlin. If your don't have a copy or your still on the fence about about digging into the kit, if you give me an email address I'll try to scan the pages and send them along to you. Button it up? -- not this time. Earl

Thanks to all of you for the response and it looks like all I need do is a bit of sanding. Always did like to solve the problem with sanding instead of chopping and gluing. No doubt the Merlin from the Airfix would be an improvement. I’ve had the Airfix Hurricane kit after I paid $10 for the original issue more years ago than I care to count while deciding if my skill level has reached the point where I can do the kit justice. No doubt the Airfix Merlin would be an improvement, but I hate to admit I will never get to the Hurricane project. I agree the Trumpeters can be good kits. I had my doubts after dealing with some of the earlier releases and kicking the P-51D under the bench after seeing that canopy frame. My faith was restored when I did the excellent Mv-24 Hind followed up by the TBM-3 Avenger which was no doubt the finest 1/32 kit I ever built. No, I have not built the Tamiya Zero or the Hasagawa Frank since they are still on the pile waiting. I don't consider myself much of an expert, but I have a thing for Spitfires. And so Alan, Andy, and Tim, thank you again for your help. Earl

I'm in the very beginning stages of building the Trumpeter Spitfire Vb. I like to think I have the prop/spinner and the incorrect color of the code letters under control. However --- the kit has the small bulges on the upper wings positioned at an angle?? These are the inboard ones on top of the wheel well. My Camouflage & Markings for the Supermarine Spitfire and Profile 221 Supermarine Seafires both show these bulges to be at right angles to the wing. I've been around a lot of airplanes and the bulges in the kit just don't seem right. Did I miss something along the way when I read the reviews or have I just have not come across the right reference material and the bulges in the kit are correct? I appreciate your help, Earl

Thanks for the review Steve. I got my C.202 kit a few days ago from the local shop and as you said, it's not for the beginner. I enjoyed meeting and talking with Ken Lawrence and his son Eric at the 05 Atlanta IPMS. Both are super nice guys and since I have always liked the C.202 / C.205, I had to buy the kit. The only reference book I have is the Squadron/Signal Macchi C.202 In Action and I'll start from there. Earl

Not having the Trumpeter P-38 I can't vote for either one. But, here's a shot of a Revell P-38 with Jerry Ruttman parts that I shot at the Atlanta IPMS. Obviously it was the result of a great deal of effort, however it was an outstanding model and I along with several others felt it had the right look. Earl

OK, I'll admit it -- this is something I wondered about now and then. Fred, I thank you for sharing your wisdom.

Many thanks for the help guys. I found the Floquil NYC Jade Green and sure enough, right there in the Model Master rack was the Interior Russian Blue Green. Earl

As a Newbie, I am extremely pleased to become a member of LSP. As an old guy who started out with only glue in a tube and a Hawk P-80, I feel like I just had a heart transplant after reviewing the excellent comments and seeing some great photos that other members have shared. I'm in the beginning stages of doing the Trumpeter Hind and I would appreciate a little help on a color match or formula for the "Bright blueish green" cockpit panels. Any of the standard enamel or acrylic paint suppliers would be great, but I have my fingers crossed that someone with a few bottles of Floquil might have a suggestion? Many thanks, Earl