KUROK

Thanks for the pic.  I am certain that if you identified this problem to Roy again, he would replace the defective part- again.  I have used Barracuda products countless times and have always been thrilled with the quality, service and even the price.  He could charge 25% more and I'd still buy everything he had for a specific build.
 
Now that I think of it, maybe I got two good noses while you got two bad ones, because one of them was meant for you!? 
 
 
 
July 21/20
 
 
A quick update, but one covering all of Steps 21 to 27.  Step 21 is the front radiator parts H9 and H43, while Step 22 is the rear rad parts H10 and H44:
 
 

 

 
 
Assembly is straight forward, but fitting these parts into the narrowed nose is another matter.  The front part H9 on the left needs to be sanded quite a bit to get it to fit, while the rear rad on the right needs some sanding, but less so.  Interior parts of the Barracuda nose were ground down as well with many iterative dry fits.  Don’t rush this, because you want a tight fit with no gaps later.
 
 

 
 
Step 23 and Step 26 create the central intake ring with 3 different parts.
 

 

 
 
These parts can be eliminated by using the Barracuda one piece resin part, which is much finer and accurate.
 
 

 
 
Make sure you carefully follow the instructions so that you retain at least a mm of the ring at the rear, which fits into Part H43.  This takes a bit of trimming of both parts to get them to mesh.
 
 

 
 
Step 24 is very confusing.  It looks like you glue together the assemblies in Step 21 and 22 together.  Don’t do it!
 

 
 
Instead, after trimming and painting the assemblies, you can glue the front radiator parts flush with the back of the intake.
 
 

 
 
And the rear assembly to some tabs within the nose.  Everything is only dry fit of course.
 
 

 
 
The air ramp at the rear comes in two parts, E1 and E18 in Step 27.
 
 

 
 
And after a little sanding and trimming, they click into grooves within the nose, resting against the rear rad.
 
 

 
 
These parts do not fit each other at all, so I recommend you trim and dry fit them many times before committing to glue.  It turns out all the panel lines and rivet detail are mostly correct, but I added the two small panel lines and rivets on part E1 (front of pic) as per references.
 
 

 
 
After trimming and a little coaxing with masking tape, this assembly fits pretty good now, so once it is painted, I will glue everything together before attaching the nose to the fuselage.
 
 

 
 
The last assembly as found above in Step 26 is the vent created with parts E2 and E3.  This will also be glued later after painting.
 
 

 
 
That’s it for a few more weeks boys.  Enjoy the summer while it lasts!
 
 
Cheers,
Chuck

July 20/20
 
I was home for a few days and a few more days of modeling.  Step #19 has you put the front engine halves E7 & E12 together, along with exhaust backings E5 & E6 and Step #20 has part D2 inserted at the top of the front intake.
 
 

 

 
 
Since I’m using the Barracuda resin replacement set (BR 32334) instead, these exact steps are eliminated.  The first task is to carefully cut off the large casting block at the front of the one-piece nose, which like most resin blocks, is tricky to do cleanly when they are so large.  It turns out that I have two of these noses, because I purchased one of the first sets when they came out a few years ago on the right, which was replaced later by Barracuda with the one on the left I’m using.  Apparently the first ones were flawed somehow, but for the life of me I can’t tell the difference between the two, so maybe I didn’t get a flawed one after all?  No matter, cutting the block off with a large razor saw did the trick, with detailed instructions supplied by Barracuda that can be found on-line here:
 
 
Barracuda Instructions in PDF
 
 

 
 
The kit parts have lots of panel line and rivet detail, but they are rough, so filling the top seam and sanding everything down smoothly won’t be easy if you use them.
 
 

 
 
While the quality of the resin is excellent as usual from Barracuda, I was surprised to find that the front did not fit the spinner very well, leaving gaps on the sides and top, while the bottom fit was flush.
 
 

 

 
 
Getting the parts to fit is easy with a little sanding, but you lose a lot of the detail that must be replaced.
 
 

 
 
Later, I will be installing the CMK Resin Exhausts that are an upgrade to the kit and recommended in the kit instructions in Step 46 on Page 11.  I also highly recommend them, because the detail is amazing as you will see much later in this build.  In any case, I will need the resin exhaust backings to replace the kit parts E5 & E6 fairly soon.
 
 

 
 
Like most resin replacements, the Barracuda nose piece utilizes the kit parts for the panel line and rivet detail when it was cast, but the detail is much weaker than the kit parts and, in some cases, you can barely see it at all, even with a dark wash.  Soooo, like the rest of the fuselage, I re-scribed every panel line and re-punched every rivet, which took me about 12 hours in total!  Yes, I can be a bit obsessed, but that’s nothing new.  Here are the results that I’m glad is over with…..
 
 

 
 
You may notice that some of the rivets are a little off alignment, but that’s because the kit part detail is a little off where they came from, which I used as a guide to replace the ones that were faint or missing.
 
 

 
 

 
 
The fit to the fuselage wasn’t quite plug and play, but after some careful trimming, sanding and even immersing the part in hot water to widen it slightly, the fit is generally excellent.  After gluing these parts together, I will sand everything smooth to eliminate any abrupt steps in the fit.  Now I know that some of you might be thinking that all this rivet detail is overkill, but after paint and weathering, it will become much more subtle, but still very much there in close-up pics which I always like to do.
 
 

 
 
I was initially a little bugged that the horizontal panel line at the top of the exhaust stack didn’t align with the fuselage panel line behind it, but after checking references, it’s not supposed to!  Whew!
 
 

 
 
Here’s a pic of the main differences between the kit parts and the Barracuda replacement.  The front of the kit fuselage nose isn’t tapered very much and the spinner is too big, as is the mouth of the intake.  The Barracuda part looks so much better- and all the internal detail is excellent as well.
 
 

 
 
The “British Brute” as Peter Castle called it, is starting to look the part!
 
 

 
 
Thanks for your continued interest in this very slow project.  As mentioned before I only model every few weeks or so and like most of us, I feel so lucky to have this stay-at-home hobby to help me weather this brutal pandemic that has been so hard on so many.  I am truly one of the lucky ones.
 
 
Cheers,
Chuck

I usually use a scriber down the major panel lines to clean the wash out, but leave the rest as is. It's thin enough, that paint build-up is minimal.  Depending on the cover color, the dark accents often show through, much like pre-shading.
 
Example on my A-10C.  First coat of paint with no subsequent dark wash.
 

 

 
 
Cheers,
Chuck

Thanks for that feedback guys.  I just KNEW this method was catching on! 
 
I looked back on my builds and I first started to use it on my Trumpeter A-10C in 2014 quite by accident.  As most of you know, this kit is a turd that needs a lot of polishing and after many modifications to panel lines, many of which were filled with CA glue, I wanted to show what the final result looked like on the nose of the model before paint.  The Tamiya Panel Line Accent (TPLA) washes had just come out and I had bought a variety of them, so I gave the Black a whirl on the bare plastic.  It showed the modifications really clearly, but it also showed a number of slip-ups with my scriber and other flaws that were completely invisible to the naked eye.  Applying the dark wash to other areas, I found many other boo-boos, which were easily fixed for the most part and much easier than they would have been after paint.  I was onto something, so I have used this method ever since.  The TPLA washes are super thin and pigment heavy, so they flow within panel lines via capillary action without the need to use a lot of wash.  After using the Black version on 6 models, I still have 1/2 of a bottle left.
 
Here's another example on my Tamiya F-15C build, where the wing to fuselage join is famous for poor fit.  With a dark wash applied, the new rivet and panel line detail is revealed, while deleted features (with CA glue applied) don't pick up the wash.  If they did (and they do often), I fix them early.  Note the small access door on the right that was deleted, which is correct for F-15E's, but not "C's".
 

 
 
One more, of the heavily modified vertical stabilizers.  90+% of the builds of this kit leave the kit join as is, which is wrong.  You can see the legacy join filled with CA glue, then sanded smooth.  If there were any flaws, the dark wash would pick it up.
 

 
 
Cheers,
Chuck

Thanks Guys!
 
I have closed and finished off the front fuselage halves, using my usual technique of using Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color in Black to check for flaws.  After sanding, every panel line was re-scribed and just about every rivet was re-punched, so there's a high chance of slip-ups that could be revealed after the first coat of paint.  By adding a dark wash now, these flaws can be seen and fixed easily, so I now hardly ever have to fix something after painting which can be a real pain.  After sealing up the front fuselage, I found plenty of little slip-ups here and there and for the most part, they are all fixed now.  I notice quite a few other modelers using this method recently, so maybe I started something? 
 

 
The dark wash would ooze into tiny cracks that would otherwise be invisible to the naked eye.  There were a few, which I have now fixed.
 

 
Note there are no gaps around the rear landing gear well, due to the modifications I did above.
 

 
This kit has lots of fine rivet and panel line detail, but not all of it is very clear.  Re-doing much of it brings it back to life.
 

 

 
In a month or two, it should look a bit like my last model of the Kitty Hawk Harvard below, which had a very smooth and glossy yellow finish.  With a big investment in early flaw detection, it paid dividends later with yellow paint that was hard to touch-up.  With a weathered camo-finish, this model should be even easier to eliminate surface flaws.
 

 
 
 
I'll be gone again for a few weeks, so no more modeling until I return.  Thanks for checking in.
 
Cheers,
Chuck

Hi LSP forum fans,
 
I would like to share a few pictures of my F7F 3P Tigercat 1/32 by HpH Models. 
There is a gallery of the Tigercat build and also pictures of some of my other models on https://www.mhscalemodels.com/  
 

Hi everobody,
 
here are some pictures of my newly finished Nieuport XXIII 1:32 by CSM.
If you would like to see more pictures from during the build just go to my websites https://www.mhscalemodels.com/
 

 

afternoon folks
 
 
 
Hi Craig - thanks for joining Patreon! hope you are enjoying the videos the bull nose was just formed by anneling the metal and running it over the skin panel underneath - by having an overlap the metal forms a nice stiff line when worked into it...
 
 
 
 
 
 
Thanks Ray & Two Hands - got the info, very helpful in building up a picture
 
 
 
 
Thanks Matt - no issues, I generally sand the panels flat underneath so there is very little variation / undulation by the time it goes down..
 
 
 
 
Thanks Wouter - I did use those too to try and work out what others had done to realise the patterns - the HGW ones are gennerally good, but miss quite a few out...
 
So, it’s been a while since an update, simply because I have had to reconfigure our house and move my office / workshop to a smaller room to give what I had snagged as the biggest room in the house as a family room as my eldest daughter is expecting and I am to be a Grandad!


 
They don’t live with us (thank God!), but we will need more space for entertaining so I moved lock, stock & barrel into the old Lounge – also bought a display cabinet I had my eye on as part of the bribe…


 



 
..but I have now picked up the tools again, and actually reskinned the wings once I got more accurate images on the patterns from Arthur Bentley… like this one..


 



 
..this meant lots of work in coreldraw to interpret these into scale drawings I could use…


 



 
..from these drawings I can create the panels..


 
Here the printout is stuck to litho and an awl used to make each rivet – coreldraw tells me there are 3712 in the wing so far, so it is tedious stuff..


 



 

 
..next, the panel is cleaned and burnished flat..


 



 
..then broken away and cleaned up..


 



 
..things don’t always go well… here I was about 300 rivets into a panel before I went straight through it as I went over the edge of the cutting board..


 



 
..I thought that panel may overlap others like some of the other panels, but it seems it is flush where it meets the leading edge..


 



 
..and the wing skinning so far..


 



 



 
..slowly getting there..


 



 



 



 
TTFN


 
Peter

Hey folks

 
Bit more Fw190 action..


 
I have been hopping about trying to phase things so I don’t for example do the interior then bash it about while trying to do some heavy engineering on the wings, but in some ways some of it doesn’t matter as any part you pick, ultimately has to be done sometime..


 
I thought I would get the tailplanes out of the way, so scaled the Bentley plans and made a 2mm card blank – let in and added a rod spar that is located where there is a tube now in the fuselage..


 
..by doing it as one part it ensures alignment etc..


 



 
..some templates were added to define the cross section and aerofoil and this was bulked out with P38 filler and primed / worked until I had the basic shapes..


 



 
..added some litho details that can be seen if the elevators are posed anywhere but neutral..


 



 
..drew out the rivet pattern from photo’s and made up 4 skin panels..


 



 
..I noticed the leading edge is a real ‘bull-nose’ and pretty ungainly – it also sits on top of the skin panels as can be seen here..


 



 
..I had made the skins slightly too wide at the leading edge so I can try and replicate this – started by wrapping in annealed litho..


 



 
..then once fixed down it was trimmed to the slight overlap..


 



 
..the tips were in three parts – one bent around the tip laterally in litho that has not been annealed to get a good crisp and strong trailing edge, and then upper & lower skin panels that were softer after annealing..


 



 
..and the finished parts – also added some big fixing rivets on the tips I saw on refs..


 



 



 



 
..then onto the wings – they needed the shapes around the ailerons correcting so correctly shaped litho strip sheet parts were cut and faired into the wing – along with removing all the moulded detail from the HB kit..


 



 
..I also used one of the holes in each wing to fill them with expanding foam that goes rock hard inside and gives a solid core..


 



 
..after priming and with a rivet template printed out derived from a photo..


 



 
..then the first panel gets prepared to be laid down with tape as a hinge holding it in position and also masking where I don’t want contact adhesive..


 



 
..the panels sit atop each other like the Spitfire, so these are the first two laid down..


 



 



 
..now I need some help from the community – I have no rivet plans and have been deriving from photo’s – I have lots of photo’s of the bottom of the wings, but none of the top (without paint so the rivets can be seen) – does anyone know where I might get a good rivet drawing or resto photo’s of the top of the wing?


 
Thanks all in advance & TTFN


 
Peter

Fantastic great job. Perfect finish!

The story of the F-104G in the Luftwaffe is remarkable in itself, never mind the awe inspiring technological advances the aircraft embodied at its first flight only 9 years after the end of WWII. Despite many hardships in operating a total of 916 F-104s over a 30 year period, the Germans showed their Teutonic resolve, and made a success of their Starfighter program.
 
It has been very satisfying building this model, and the research that went with it has given me a better perspective on the much hyped "Widow-maker". It is a beautiful aircraft to look at, and regardless of some typical Italeri niggles, the kit captures the lines very well. I eventually chose to build one of JaboG 31's "Jagdbomber(s)", as that was the primary role of the Luftwaffe's F-104G's. Should you be interested, here is a link to the build thread:  
 
 
 
For a change, I think I should just let the photo's tell the story...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers,
 
Sean

Hello all
 
This is my latest build, I-16 Rata from Revell/ICM in 1:32
Sorry for bad photos , done with mobile phone..
 







 
Hope u like the little guy
 

Thank you Gentlemen!
 
August 16/20
 
I mini-update, but a very important one.  It doesn’t matter how good the Barracuda resin nose looks unless it fits the rest of the fuselage seamlessly, so there’s still quite a bit of work to do.  I glued the nose on using thin CA glue on the outside lip, followed by thicker CA glue oozed in behind and rotated around to get most of the back glued as well, for a solid bond  This resulted in a bit of glue leaking out of seams, which was easily cleaned up with CA glue debonder.  As mentioned earlier, the fit is pretty good, but far from perfect, with some parts of the join too high that need to be sanded down.  A few examples:
 
 

 

 
The sanding is easy, but restoring eroded detail is not, so it takes a lot of time and tools to do so.  Here I have a pin scriber at the top to create curves, followed by a needle in a pin vice for rivet depressions, a Mega Tool to restore Dzus fasteners, a sharp Trumpeter scriber (hence the tape), followed by a duller scriber at the bottom to restore panel lines.  Before I sand anything, I deepen all detail so that I can find it later.
 

 
 
The raised side is now gone, as well as the raised top, among other imperfections.  Fortunately, the junction of kit and resin nose is the end of the engine cowlings that don’t fit perfectly flush due to constant removal, so this seam line can be a bit off and still be fairly accurate.
 
 

 

 
 
One thing I noticed when replacing the detail is that the top fuel door is completely missing on the kit parts, replaced by a square decal (#74), so I scribed a more realistic looking one using the decal as a template for size and location.
 
 


As mentioned earlier, the horizontal fuselage and nose panel line (top of exhaust) do not meet and should be slightly offset.
 

 

 
 
I’m very happy with this after-market improvement from Barracuda and I highly recommend it.  Although subtle to some, the shape of the kit parts is way off and spoils the most characteristic feature of the Typhoon and Tempest- the mean mouth.  Kudo’s to Anthony in NZ and others at Barracuda for creating it!
 
 
Cheers,
Chuck

August 13/20
 
I’m back for a couple of days, so I had a chance to do a little modeling and the update below.  Before I glue anything inside the Barracuda nose piece, I need to attend to the exhausts, which are CMK resin ones I purchased separately.  As you will see below, they are much better than the kit ones, but like all resin parts, they need to be cut off casting blocks with a razor saw.  While the top exhaust shroud can be crudely cut because it won’t show later, the exhaust stacks themselves must be cut very carefully in order to retain the bolt detail at the base of each exhaust.
 
 

 
 
The best way to do this is to cut off close to the base like the part on the left, then carefully sand off the remaining resin like the one on the right.
 
 

 
 
Here’s the resin part on the right compared to the kit part on the left.  No contest!
 
 

 
 
Note that I did not cut out the small openings within each stack, because you will never see them after they are installed.  For the SH kit with the exposed engine, this detail should obviously be cleaned up.
 
 

 
 
Unfortunately, the CMK exhausts are much too long for both the kit and Barracuda exhaust openings.  Checking the kit parts, they are a bit too long as well, so adjustments need to be made.
 
 

 
 
The rear of the exhaust opening should be sanded at an angle to widen it by about 2 mm.
 
 

 
 
For reference, the resin exhaust shrouds are deeper than the kit parts, to accommodate the longer exhausts.
 
 

 
 
Before painting, I looked around for a working Napier Sabre engine to see what the exhaust staining should look like.  Very surprising to me, there isn’t one and there are very few Hawker Tempest V or Typhoon survivors to use for references.  Even the ones I found were either cleaned up or horror of horrors, painted with camo paint!  Blasphemy!
 
Since these exhausts look similar to the “fish-tail” exhausts I used on my Spitfire Mk IX build, which did have a lot of working references, I decided to paint them in a similar fashion.  For these exhausts, they should look like mottled steel with some reddish oxidation, with the aft 5 stacks with a whitish exhaust residue staining.  The front exhaust is not stained this way for obvious reasons.  Here’s my Spitfire once again to show what I mean.
 
 

 
 
To do this, I start with a gloss coat of black lacquer followed by Alclad Steel.  That nice slightly rough finish is due to the resin and how I painted the Steel.
 
 

 
 
Next, I paint on a salt in warm water solution, which is similar to salt weathering except there are no salt crystals to begin with, which would be too harsh of a contrast on these small parts.  With salt dissolved in water, new crystallization occurs in a random pattern, which is what you want.
 
 

 
 
After the salt crystals dried, I sprayed a very thin coat of Rust or Burnt Sienna enamel, to replicate oxidation.  Here I overdid it a bit, because much of it will be removed later.
 
 

 
 
After the paint dried for about 15 minutes, I scrubbed off the salt with water on a micro-brush, followed by the application of Tamiya pastels in white (Snow), to replicate the exhaust staining.
 
 

 
 
A close-up with the stack placed within the shroud, which has been painted Steel inside.  I think I might have nailed the correct look, but who will ever know without a working engine?
 
 

 
 
With that fun project out of the way, I painted the front radiator lightly with Alclad Aluminum, being careful to retain some of the black background for contrast, then glued it in place.  The front circular vent is only dry fit so that I can remove it before painting.
 
 

 
 
Same with the rear radiator parts, while the ramp and rear tube were painted according to some references, with the rear left gloss black to match the rest of the fuselage once it is painted with it’s first coat.
 
 

 

 
 
Exhaust shroud glued into place.
 
 

 
 
And the exhaust stacks dry fit, which will be installed at the end of the build.  Not bad…
 
 

 

 
 
I’m off again for a week or two, but the next step is the landing gear wells that fit into the wings.  I hear these are a problem, so I’ll soon find out what the issues are- and how to fix them!
 
 
Cheers,
Chuck

Here is my completed RAAF P-40N, depicted in the last months of WW2. This aircraft was originally flown by the C/O of 75 Sqn, Squadron Leader Clive Toldhurst but appeared to be taken over by Squadron Leader Alan Thomson after he was posted to 75Sqn, becoming the acting Commanding Officer. I managed to find a fair bit of information about Alan, including many pics of him flying `Hep Cat' (G) and also many pages of his logbook. I have spliced these pages together, made them clearer and have included some of them here. They show the many combat missions that he flew in it and show his affection for this particular aircraft. The notes on the right side of each page make for some fascinating reading and give a unique insight into what it must have been like flying combat missions in the pacific, as well as the wind down after the war in which he continued to fly this aircraft. As can be seen in his logbook, danger was always close, even after the war finished.
 

 
A bio of Alan:
 
Alan Thomson was born in Brisbane on 13 May 1920, and grew up in Brisbane and Bundaberg. He was educated at Brisbane and Ascot State Schools, and then Brisbane Grammar School. He left school before matriculation and joined the Commonwealth Bank, starting as a junior clerk at Brisbane's Queen Street branch. In the late 1930s he enrolled in a weekend flying course run by the Queensland Aero Club at Archerfield, during which time he logged up some three and a half hours flying time with an instructor. He joined the RAAF in July 1940 and attended 2 ITS Bradfield Park, 6 EFTS Tamworth, and 3 SFTS Amberley, before being posted to 1 BAGS Evans Head, where he spent over a year, clocking up 580 hours on Fairey Battles. He was posted to 2 OTU Mildura in September 1942, where he carried out conversion to P-40 Kittyhawks.  
 
His first operational posting was to 76 Squadron at Strauss, Northern Territory in late November of the same year. Japanese intrusion over the Northern Territory at this time was sporadic at best, and 76 Squadron along with 77 Squadron (Kittyhawks) saw little action, although each squadron was to claim one aircraft destroyed each. He was to stay with 76 Squadron for almost a year, following them to deployments at Onslow, Bankstown, Milne Bay and front line deployments to Goodenough and Kirriwina Islands. He then spent all of 1944 as an instructor at 2 OTU Mildura, and in early 1945 attended the RAAF Staff School at Mt Martha, Victoria. In late May he was posted to 75 Squadron (Kittyhawks) and became acting C/O of the squadron during its move from Morotai to Tarakan in late June 1945, and subsequent operations during the Borneo campaign. On 29 October, some six weeks after the Japanese surrender, Alan was involved in a serious landing accident. Suffering from his burns and shock he was evacuated to Brisbane, where he spent several months in hospital undergoing treatment for his burns. He was discharged from the RAAF on 18 April 1946. He was awarded a DFC promulgated in the London Gazette on 25 June 1946, and received the following citation:
 
"Flight Lieutenant Thomson has completed two tours of operations against the enemy from the Trobriand Islands and Borneo, displaying daring and ability and keenness to destroy the enemy. He has participated in 29 sorties and 26 strikes and the successful results achieved by No. 75 Squadron, operating from Tarakan, are largely due to the courage and determination displayed by him. Flight Lieutenant Thomson has led his squadron on many successful strikes against the strongly defended Samarinda area with utter disregard for personal safety".
 
After leaving the RAAF Alan returned to the Commonwealth Bank but never again flew another aircraft. Although he did retain a lifelong interest in aircraft and aviation. Alan passed away in 2002.
 
The model:
 
Eduard boxing of the Hasegawa kit.
 
Modifications/additions:
 
I elected not to use most of the included photo etch.
Brengun aftermarket gunsight.
Music wire front bead gunsight.
Scratchbuilt brake lines, undercarriage extended inticators, whip antenna and fuel drain pipe lower fuselage.
RB Productions paper seatbelts.
 
Paint and markings:
 
Gunze Sangyo acrylics
Custom designed masks for the nose art, serials, squadron codes and roundels.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
A picture that I have wanted to do ever since I found out that there were two Hep Cats!
 

 
 
 
 

Completed today and hung up in the back of my display case.  Overall, a lot of fun to build.  I really didn't run into many issues along the way.  I did take some shortcuts on the interior as I knew it wouldn't be visible in the end.  I added some waist/belly windows and also eliminated the ball turret and instead added a tunnel gun.  Hope you enjoy!

More test fitting trying to get everything to line up properly. The cockpit tub must fit correctly or the body shows major gaps requiring massive work. But before I can close the tub, I have to wait for a set of 1/24th scale placards and data plates to see if they will work. Not sure what I can do if they don't. 

Per their Facebook page:
 
117444361_2764446443844097_2099341516711252079_n by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr
 
"Hi, Folks!
Today we would like to share our plans with you for 2020/2021
 
In 1/32 scale we are planning to release our final Nieuport kit, in OCT/NOV.
 
That will be Nieuport RFC Service, we believe we did all that we could to bring you the best up to date Nieuports 17,21,23.
 
We picked 3 markings already and still need to pick the last one, any suggestion? (A. Ball`s markings will be offered in a special "A.Ball edition" later on).
 
--Nieuport 23. B`3459 was flown extensively in combat by Capt Fullard to gain 16 of this final 40 victories including the capture of a Junkers J.I before ending its days in Egypt.
 
--Nieuport 23. B`1552, flown by Lt.E. `Mick` Mannock, 40 Sqn RFC, (with different top wing roundels (wing repair probably?
 
--Nieuport 23. B`1566, flown by Capt W.A. Bishop, 60 Sqn RFC (not sure if we need to add C.5 on the fuselage though)
 
___________
 
Coming up next will be 1/32 Caudron G.III, we are planning to have it ready in 2021. And the next one will be Sopwith Baby also in 1/32 scale.
 
___________
 
Our 1/35 range should receive 2 new armoured cars by the end of spring 2021. That is something unexpected, we never announced it. Garford and Lancias are also in development.
Stay tuned for more armour news next week!"
 
Nice to see Copper State is getting wacky, too! A Caudron G.III? Who would have ever thought.
 
Untitled by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr
 
Also, a Sopwith Baby is a welcome addition!
 
b3f108c721d482293612e1b4fdd42c6c by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr
 
What a time to be alive as a large scale modeller.
 
- Dennis S.
  Thornton, CO USA
 

Hi everybody,
 
here are a few pictures of my CURTIS F6C-4 1:32 by LUKGRAPH. 
If you would like to see  pictures  of the entire build, please check out my web https://www.mhscalemodels.com/
 

Looking good!
i have this kit in my stash too!

I have several Hasegawa P-40s in my stash including one EduArt version (which is really nice).
The shape issues I have seen with the new Trumpeter make me scratch my head.  Looks like they put their "B" team on them.
Still I have no reason to not do my Hasegawa's because the shape on those is very very good.

2 nd. part:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi gents,
Here is my latest finished build... I used these aftermarket items: 
- cockpit & wheelbay from Aires
- propeller & spinner - after a little correction of spinner diameter - from Eduard
- upper gun covers & drop tanks from Tamiya´s P-51D
- main wheels with oval pattern from Barracuda
- tail wheel from Eduard
I puttyied the rivet and some panel lines on the both halves of main wing as shown in the picture from the production line which I found on the web.After drying the putty,I sanded and polished surface of main wing,it was a horrible & neverending work. Next,I corrected the guns position in the main wing and position of signal lights too.I am added the fuel pipe lines on drop tanks and some cables into the wheelbay and cockpit from lead wire.
For NMF I used Alclad II paints,for spraying insignias & some details MRP,Humbrol & Tamiya acrilic paints.The stencils are from HGW Wet transfer.The weathering I made with heavy deluted tamiya acrilic paints and water color pencils.The surface of the kit is sprayed with a lot of thin layers of Humbrol satin warnish.
 
Thanx for watching... 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Painting this very German Starfighter is fun. The splinter camouflage is rather reminiscent of Luftwaffe builds from another era, and is much nicer to mask than any organic camo pattern!
 

 
On the sheet of paper are my mixes for the green and grey - real hit and miss stuff I'm afraid.
 

 
As it turned out, my green was too yellow. Don't take the "Gelb" in the "Gelboliv" too seriously, it is actually quite a dark green. Sponged on masking fluid is used to add some visual interest, and I then sprayed darker shades over the existing green.
 

 
The same was done for the grey, and lighter shades oversprayed to get the contrast right. You will notice that I have sprayed some green over the grey in areas to simulate the green showing through worn paint. As mentioned previously, it looks to me like the grey is sprayed over the green.
 

 

 

 
I used Tamiya TS-96 Fluorescent Orange for the dayglo on the tip tanks. It is quite important to get the right undercoat for it to work, and here you can see a yellow undercoat that fades to white on top where the dayglo fades quickest.
 

 

 
Apart from getting the undercoat right, it is also quite important to get the dimensions of the panel right! 
 

 

 
I got hold of some cool Uschi stencils (that Mig Jimenez markets) at my LHS, and have put them to work creating some variation to the silver/grey undersides.
 

 
Most enjoyable stuff!
 
Sean