ChuckT

Sorry to hear about your Mom. I hope she makes a full recovery.

Very nice!

Sorry to hear about your job but glad to see you back to posting on here. Looking forward to the next update (and welcome back!), Chuck.

Thanks for the confirmation. C.

Glad to see this build back from its vacation! Chuck.

Looking great. Can't wait to see more, Chuck.

Thanks for your hard work Kev. You helped make this website one of the best (if not THEE best) around. Chuck.

Very cool. I'll be getting one down the road. Chuck.

Very nice! Thanks very much, Chuck.

I think that would work. I am able to vacuum degauss and pressure cast, so I was thinking of doing the part standing up with the backing plate to cut down on the amount of material I would need to remove/sand off the back of the panel as compared to doing it laying down.

No, your right. I'm just wanting to save time and sand paper by not having the backing thicker than it needs to be.

I’m just thinking out loud here, but is it practical to resin cast a thin instrument panel master using a one piece mold? I was thinking of mounting the instrument panel master onto a thin backing card (to close off the open instrument holes in the panel) and once cast, would then sand the thickness of the thin card off the back of the cast panel to open up the holes and free up the panel for use. The backing panel would not only close of the holes in the panel (making a one piece mold practical) but would also prevent warping of the resin casting. I want to overall casting to be as thin as possible while preventing warping. If it is doable, what would be the thinnest combined thickness of panel casting (to include the actual panel and the back card) that I could realistically cast in resin? Would a total thickness of .01” (.25mm), .02” (.5mm) or something thicker cast vertically in a one piece mold work? Thanks in advance, C.

Agreed.

I agree.

Very cool!

Thanks guys

I have the special hobby He 100 kit and was thinking about adding some extra detail to the cockpit area (at least). I know cockpit pics of this aircraft are few to none, so I was wondering if it would be a logical assumption to think that many of the cockpit details regarding general layout and items found in the He 100 would be at least similar to the He 112? What do you guys think? If that is a logical assumption, I can search for He 112 cockpit pics and drawings to come up with rough idea of what the He 100 cockpit would have looked like.

Very cool builds

Amazing. What more can be said!

Oh boy, too many numbers running through my brain lately. I should have typed above that the smallest detail I need a printer to handle for double sided etch is .375mm (.023") across, NOT .1mm (.006")! Sounds like the above printer that Mikkel is using (.2mm across) might actually work!

FYI, I also ordered the Tamiya pla plate super thin plastic (1.2mm/.05", .5mm/.02", .3mm/.01" thick) and will update this thread once I get my hands on it.

Not sure (about test prints on paper). Does the paper the ink is being applied too affect resolution (just wondering if it bleeds out into the paper)? It all comes down to cost for me. If a local print shop can give me artwork for a lower overall cost than compared to online services ($23 U.S. for 9.5" x 11" film with shipping) I'm good with that, even if it gives me multiple copies. I'm trying to get the cost to something below $15 U.S./$20 Canadian for an 8" x 10" locally. Thanks again for the help, C.

Ok, makes sense. Any ideas on how to separate the various print shops from average to high end when I search the local listings?

Interesting. I'll give it a try. Thanks!

Thanks for the offer for the test print. I was wondering if it's possible to get a home printer that's able to give me the resolution that I need. Do you know what DPI your printer is able of printing up to?