MaxIt

That's great! I'm fond of japanese Phantoms, there are many cool out there. What next? Not the F-16!

Great model and display, the light is perfect (no shadows ) and the background matches perfectly with the model, you can't complain! Definitively, I like it

Thank you all for your support "Fisheyes" sounds appropriate to me. I've have mist trap and oilless compressor, maybe something occurred while airbrushing. I sanded and I gave a more layer, any problem this time, even if it is very difficult to cover, because the "bubbles" are very deep. More sanding and paint again, testing on mule before every spray. The white is over another layer of the same glossy Gunze, well cured, no primer, because the plastic itself is white. Another lesson learned Thanks again.

Hi all, I've had this effect airbrushing glossy white paint, Gunze + Leveling thinner. Over a well dryed and flat layer, I decided for a second one, but I used a more thinned mix (about 80% thinner) but have had these sort of “spots” in some parts of the model. After that, I airbrushed almost pure thinner, but the “spots” never leveled. The rest of the model is perfect. I could try to sand lightly and paint again, but can't understand the reason of these spots. I cannot explain better, but I'm confident that who have had the same problem could easily understand what I mean.

For sure, thanks! Not really cheap, it will mean I'll build two TuAF TF-104 Thanks again for your attention

All those you have mentioned! Not of a particular subject (even if the "tiger" TF is interesting), so numbers and serial could be of any TuAF TF-104G. I wonder if the stencils are needed, i.e. the Rescue and Ejection Seat triangles and so on, should also be in Turkish?

Hi Tolga, really nice model and subject. I've been lucky enough to see Turkish T/F-104G still in service in late '80 (pic is mine). I would make a 1/48 TF-104G, but have some problems for the Turkish decals like yours, have you any suggestion? Thanks and compliments.

That's right Chuck The point is changing focus. Suggestions are for those who have cameras without focus shift.

Hi Chuck, thanks for your add, but it is not clear to me for what you put the camera on timer. Focus stacking is a matter of "timing", of course, but each photos must have different focus points in progression. It is better if focusing is made automatically, without touching the ring on the lens, therefore most recent cameras have built-in focus stacking function, so they can change focus for you automatically from an initial point to the last one, or you can connect the camera to the Pc/Mac and the focus can be controlled with a dedicated software or, lastly, by remote, but not sure if all types have the focus control.

undeservedly took off your hands! The most part could be automated with camera function and post production software, but the number of shots could affect the Gigabytes you could deal with during the focus stacking process. If this would be a problem or not, is up to you. After all with focus stacking the focal lenght (therefore depth of field), aperture and shutter speed are not issues, giving you total choice and freedom. If I was you, I would try to take more photos only of those critical areas and check how PS or/and Helicon react. I'm sure you will achieve the right results soon. As photographer, I'm dedicated to aviation photography (what else?), using mainly a Nikon D4 for a long time now. Due to covid restrictons I got interested in still life photography, but not yet equipped for that. I appreciated very much your offer, it is very kind of you, but I live in Italy, “free of charge” could be very expensive instead. Sorry Archer, I've realized just now who you are! You and your product for modelling are well known and very much appreciated. Happy if I could have contributed to the discussion and share with you our experiences. We live surrounded by images, I'm convinced that photography in modelling is an art by itself and deserves the right attention and care.

Hi all, I've been interested in focus stacking by the first time I've heard about it. I studied a little and I've found it is largely used by professional still life photographers, for very high quality photos of small objects (i.e. advertizing in jewellery, drink and food etc.). One shot at small aperture with high depth of field could be enough for Instagram or social media photography, but if you require a better quality, focus stacking is worth a try, free to use any aperture/shutter speed you wish, without paying too much attention to them. The aim is to shoot a strip of photos with increased focus points, from foreground to the very far background. Then a software will merge these photos in one image, in which every point of the subject is in focus. So you have to focus precisely, apart a steady tripod and good lights, you have to control your camera by Pc, so focus steps can be set without touching the camera body. You have to balance the number of shots with the dimension of each picture: too many will require a very long time for merging, but too less can give poor results when merged. Probably your recent camera has the right functions, like remote control by Pc and focus stacking set. Check it! For the merge software, Photoshop is not considered the best, instead Helicon Focus can be the right choice. It is not for free, but should offer a free test period. I've done some very poor tests with a 1/72 model, setting camera focus by hand (!!!) and with Photoshop. You can notice how the pitot and the very far tail are in focus. There are some artefacts, but the general result is not that bad. At high definition the test if worthy, I suppose for larger objects like 1/32 model focus stacking is a must for those who want give a try.

Complimenti, bellissimo! Molto realistico il seggiolino, bella la resa del metalizzato. Bel lavoro e bel ricordo del Kappone

Nice! Great model and pictures. MARABU? I remember some very very old modeling colors from that brand.

Great model indeed! I've been lucky to take photos of the "Fox" at the Trident Juncture NATO exercise in Spain on 2015. Mike, I've a suggestion, not exactly a critique: I would have given a greater angle at the speedbrakes. Just check some photos on the web, It's up to you, but I think you could fix it easily.