BloorwestSiR
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Posts posted by BloorwestSiR
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.any others out there?
Yup, here's a couple pictures of mine. Sorry for the grainy pictures, they're from my phone.
From left to right on the upper shelf: PCM Spitfire, Hasegawa Bf-109, PCM Hurricane (might be salvagable as I dropped it while painting it), Monogram Phantom Mustang, Dragon BF 109 (can't find the IP), Trumpy P-40 (missing exhaust pipes)
On the bottom shelf, it's not so bad: Tamiya Do-335 (rear stabs need re-gluing) Babylon 5 Whitestar (solid resin and dropped on its tail so ouch), Aoshima BTTF DeLoren (first attempt at Alclad)
The Yamato and Mi-24 are actually finished, just didn't have anywhere to put them.
And the last spot, which is not really a shelf, but drawers.
A pair of Tamiya Spitfire wings along with Revell ones converted to a Seafire 47
I need to figure out what parts are for which kit in there...
Carl
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I can't wait for the London Airshow set. I saw that plane in person at the airshow that year and enjoyed it.
Of course that means having to add an F-4D to the stash.
Jake, any hints on what F-4G markings you are planning to do?
Carl
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I see a market developing for a hobby bib.
(Probably not a bad idea.)It could have multiple uses. Not only catches drool, but any small parts dropped off the bench too
As for the Horten, I know this will be my must have purchase this year.
Carl
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A small update. I have painted the cockpit tub and seats in the main shade of grey:
I plan to use the kit seats for now and maybe down the road, I'll consider replacing them.
While the paint was drying, I got to work filling some ejector pin marks in the gear bay and on the burner can petals:
Next up was the intake and the seam down it. I debated gluing the front and rear sections together into upper and lower halves, but decided that the seam would be too long and curved to fill properly so I have followed the instructions :mental:and done in two sections. Here is the rear section with a coat of Mr Surfacer 500 filling in the seam:
And now the problem. I just picked up a new weekend job which will mean I will have close to zero build time at my primary workbench. This is where I build most/all of my LSP kits as I have plenty of space as well as a spray booth and compressor. Most of my tools and kits are here too. This is in the basement of my parents' house. I was fortunate enough to have them let me set it up when I was living in a condo at the time. Last year, my wife and I bought a house which has a small basement but the ceiling is low and it's not finished. I have managed to set up a small workbench there but can't do any painting, just building. Recently, I picked up a second air compressor so I am going to try and set something up a little bit more practical so I can paint here. That way, I will be able to get in more building time once our boys are asleep.
So, hopefully next week we'll see some greater progress on this.
Carl
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Thanks for looking in.
Ooh this has already got MY attention...
Good Luck ..Will be back to see more of your build.
Hi Maru,
Thanks, I'm hoping to be able to finish it in time for the deadline. I've got an interesting problem that I'm trying to work out which will either let me make that target or miss it completely
Always thought they were armor guys and some smaller scale aircraft. Nice to see a new company in 32nd scale upgrade the Academy kit.
Looking forward to following the build
Keep 'em coming
Peter
You're right, Peter. Their primary focus has been 1/35 armour and more recently, 1/48 aircraft but this is their first 1/32 kit. They also have a RSAF F-16 kit which also uses the Academy plastic. I think that kit is the only source currently for an ACMI pod.
This one is pretty much the Sufa kit with the additional resin bits.
Carl
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AFV Club primarily do 1/35 armour kits. They have recently branched out into aircraft but mostly 1/48 stuff and usually with some sort of connection to Taiwan as that's where they're based. They have re-boxed Academy kits on occasion but with new bits added like this kit.
Their most recent 1/32 announcement is a new tool F-104 (and not a re-box of the Italeri one).
Carl
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Here's a view of the contents:
The new tail with the parapack fitting:
The other resin bits which includes a recon pod, missiles and new main gear wheels and doors:
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I thought with all the F-16s being built, I would add one more to the mix:
I bought this shortly after it came out. It is primarily the Academy plastic with some new resin parts. Although not 100% accurate, I plan to build it OOB.
Carl
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I think Hasegawa released them in 72nd scale.
http://www.hlj.com/product/HSG02067/Air
Nice to read about the story behind the markings.
Carl
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I don't know if you can build it without at least the engine block.
I put together just the basic engine attached to the firewall, engine bearers and front mount for the prop. Even with the cowl panels glued in place, there's noticeable flexing. Maybe if you scratch build something as Ron suggested to takes its place it would work. But leaving it out entirely, I have my doubts about the durability of the assembly.
Carl
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There is a conversion set from AMS Resin which allows you to backdate the Trumpeter kit. It has the nose, intakes and decals for the C version, including some Argentinian ones.
It might save you some of the work.
Carl
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Wolfpack does the Warhud and I think Isracast has a Block 40 conversion.
Hope that helps
Carl
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Sorry Carl, I'm afraid that there is no hope for you then...we'll have to put you down...
Derek
It's all good now Derek. So no need for a trip to the glue factory.
Phew.
Forgot to mention that it's a great painting.
Carl
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Thanks guys!
After reading this I've had You've lost that Lovin' Feeling stuck in my head all morning.
Carl
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The original Tamiya acrylic paints were known to have this problem. I had it happen to me when I put a heavy coat of clear red (X-27) over a gold base (X-12). It created a gorgeous candy red with a nice gloss until it fully cured and cracked. I had sprayed the clear red without thinning it to get a gloss finish which is what everyone figured caused it to crack.
As a result, Tamiya made changes to the paint formula.
The old paints came in a 23 ml size while the new ones are 10 ml.
Fine Scale Modeler actually ran an article on this problem. I can't recall when it came out but it was at least a couple pages long.
Carl
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Great solution to the intakes. A different approach than what Brian used on his build. I think I'll borrow it when I start mine
Carl
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The Xtracrylics are a nice paint. I've airbrushed them and been very happy with the results. Most are semi-gloss so you can get away without a clear coat when it comes to recalling.
I do recommend using their thinner though.
Carl
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I picked up a set of Master barrels for the P-47 to use since they're smooth and not drilled. They also have a nicely chamfered barrel end to them.
Carl
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Thanks everyone.
I hope to be able to get some paint on it shortly, maybe even this weekend.
In the meantime, I had so fun doing this, I've started another mecha kit from Kotobukiya and will post that shortly.
Carl
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First I've heard of it.
That's what I figured seeing as I haven't found mention of it anywhere else. Hopefully it's a miscommunication.
Carl
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I just read on Hannant's homepage that Isracast has stopped production on their resin sets. Anyone else heard this?
Carl
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Great stripes there Kev!
Which Gunze are you using? The acrylic or lacquer? I find the lacquers harden off fairly quickly but you're right about the acrylics taking a bit longer to dry. You can also thin the Gunze and Tamiya acrylics with either of their lacquer thinners and that helps speed up the drying time too.
Carl
P & W 229 Exhausts
in LSP Discussion
Posted
Scale Motorsport does carbon fibre decals and they have one in 1/48 scale which is supposed to be a good match. I've used their decals on car interiors and they conform reallyvwell when you follow their instructions.
Hope that helps
Carl