Jump to content

Tamiya 1/48 Rufe


LSP_Kevin

Recommended Posts

If it's a solid float Brian then I reckon it'll be OK. Though that's partly dependent on how much of the float is behind the centre of gravity. Only the front third of the float on mine is now weighted, since as we know it's as much about balance as sheer weight.

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Right, time for an update!  It's been a while, but I have to say I haven't really got much further. The main float is attached, and the canopy parts have been installed after being masked with Bare Metal Foil - my latest experiment!

 

hRYE9y.jpg

 

The jury's still out for me regarding this approach to masking canopies. My normal approach involves the tedious application of a patchwork of pieces of Tamiya tape. Using Bare Metal Foil involves the tedious application and rubbing down of pieces of foil, followed by the anxiety-provoking process of cutting around the panes so you can remove the foil on the frames. This requires a precise and deft touch with the blade that I'm not convinced I possess. I will say though that it's superior to the same approach that uses Tamiya tape, as the foil is not only much easier to cut - thereby reducing the risk of marring the plastic by having to use a heavier hand - but it also allows you to see the frames much more clearly, as the foil is only a fraction of the thickness of Tamiya tape.

 

4LIglF.jpg

 

On balance, it probably took me about as long to mask the canopy with this approach as with my usual one, so about even there. It was slightly less tedious I guess, but the main drawback is the sheer cost of the BMF itself - quite expensive for throwaway masking material! Still, I've had this sheet of Chrome in my stash for years, so why not. The proof of course will be what it looks like after painting and removal, and hopefully I'll know that before too much longer.

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, today is turning out to be a bit of a catch-up-on-modelling day for me, so here's the latest on the Rufe. It's been primed, gaps fixed, and primed again, followed by an all-over coat of AS-12 as a base coat for weathering:

 

t4kvXU.jpg

 

There are still a few imperfections that I really should fix, but this build is about practising painting and weathering, not construction perfection. I have to admit though, that I'm really at a bit of a loss about how to proceed from here! My original intention was to use the salt method like Chuck Sawyer does, to create subtle variations in the overall finish. I'll have to go read up on it again to see if I really feel like doing all that work. On the other hand, it's exactly why I started the build in the first place! Congenital laziness really is a ***** sometimes.

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 I seem to remember that the BMF is a bear to remove.

 

Yes, yes it is a bear to remove;  to put it mildly.  As soon as I  read that Kev had applied BMF, I cringed in anxiety at the thought of "attempting" to remove it.  To say I've "Been there, done that." is an understatement.  Bare Metal Foil will leave its adhesive behind on the canopy, have no doubt about that Kev.  How you remove it will make or break the model.  In my case, the project was a total write off and I binned the kit (thankfully it too was a 1/48 kit done many, many years ago and did not cost that much).  I have not heard about the WD40 adhesive removal method but it's worth a try.  I don't know if it's available down under by the same name but most likely is.  There's also some commercially available adhesive removers that will work without damaging the underlying material.  Goo Gone is one available in the US but I don't put a lot of faith in it as it takes forever to work (IMO) and requires multiple applications.  Again, not sure if it's even available in Aussie so were I you, I'd do a google search for adhesive removers and research the best ones and have some ready....  You will need them.  You'll probably lose all the paintwork on the canopy but that can be repaired. 

 

Who knows, maybe you'll get really lucky (and may not be the slightest bit Irish) and the BMF will retain its adhesive when you go to remove it.  We can only hope.  Good luck and let us know if you're successful and what you used.  Bare Metal Foil could be a great masking medium if we can tame the adhesive removal monster.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. Most of my information about masking with BMF came from the following article:

 

http://gregers.fr.yuku.com/topic/10206/How-to-masking-canopies-using-Bare-Metal-Foil#.U1wjiMdbOzM

 

It recommends WD40 to remove the adhesive, and advises that it will not affect acrylic paints, but will strip enamels, so this suits me. To be honest, the only thing I'm really worried about with the removal is having it pull the canopies off. If it all goes belly up on this one, I'll just use the alternative closed canopy and resort to masking tape.

 

Kev

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, so with my curiosity piqued I decided to give the centre canopy section a quick squirt with Tamiya XF-70, and then unmask it. The process wasn't too bad, and I only had one panel that was a little bit stubborn. The rest came off fairly easily. The main difficulty was getting that initial corner to lift. Here it is after all the BMF was removed:

 

T0CmMd.jpg

 

The photo doesn't really show it clearly, but there is a little bit of residue in evidence. Here's the canopy after a couple of polishes with a cotton bud moistened with WD40:

 

GulnUn.jpg

 

Hard to see the difference in the photos to be honest. The WD40 definitely doesn't affect Tamiya acrylic paint, but I went pretty lightly with it. The canopy itself is not particularly clear or distortion-free, and this is evident in both photos, adding to the sense of there being little improvement with the WD40. It looks better to the naked eye I think. One interesting side benefit of the WD40 is that it leaves a nice, shiny sheen that's quite pleasing.

 

The thing I am disappointed with though is that for all that effort, my frames still came out pretty rough - not straight at all in fact! I think this technique would benefit from a steadier hand than my own when it comes to initially cutting out the frames. I obviously wasn't as accurate as I thought I was! This particular canopy has pretty poorly-defined frames though, so something with more definition would be easier for the blade to follow while cutting.

 

Anyway, we'll see how the rest of the canopies I have in waiting fare when I get to them.

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Thanks chaps! Maru, it currently sits on my workbench behind the Do 335 parts, taunting me, and silently mocking my inability to finish it. I have at least painted the wing leading edges; now I simply need to mask them out and start painting the rest of the airframe...

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Kevin is that your process for laying down the greem ? I have seens works done by that technique and it usually comes out quite nice.I for one tried it once and was quite time consuming for my likes maybe one day.

 

Not normally, though I've used it once before to good effect. It's better done over a dark base coat though. I was really just doodling with the left over green in the airbrush after spraying the canopy frames. I might persist with it though and see what I can make of it; after all, this build was supposed to be for experimenting with weathering and finishing techniques anyway, so I figure I've got nothing to lose. I can always repaint it if it goes badly. Must get back to it though!

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice Kev,

Another I have in the stash to be built except being the Hasegawa kit.

 

Regards,

 

Kent

 

The Hasegawa kit is a whole lot newer than this one Kent, so I'd expect it to be a whole lot nicer too. Not that this is a bad kit by any stretch, but it dates from the mid-'70s, with everything that implies.

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...