LSP_K2 Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 As long as you don't plan on filling the rivets.... Don I don't. California Cutie appeared to be fairly heavily worn, so the rivet detail should help me to enhance that effect, or at least that's the plan. dmthamade 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmthamade Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 I haven't heard anything about Waldron in a long time. I still have an old 1/32 jet belt buckle set from them, looks really well done. Getting over a cold right now, just puttering away. I've been going over all the panel lines with 400 sandpaper in preparing to fill. Did a dryfit of the wing to booms. Fit looks pretty good, little scraping and things should be good. This looks promising!! This is with a little weight in the engines, with the build at the approximate 3 point stance, it is just balanced. Little more weight in the nose and it should be good to go!! I also found with it dryfitted it will JUST fit in the display case. Don TorbenD and LSP_K2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmthamade Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 Don I've been there and of course, done that. Now I keep the sprue bags and trees until I'm actually done: just in case. Keep 'em comin Peter Yup!! Learnt that lesson as well. Sprues that i don't think i need anymore get put into kit box, dealt with after build is in the case. Painful lesson that was.... Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 Just out of curiosity, if built OOB, does the kit have a natural tail low attitude, or does it sit parallel to the ground? I recall that with my Revell kit, I extended the nose gear a tad, while at the same time shortening the main gear, and it gave a real nice tail low posture. dmthamade 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmthamade Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 Good question.....i guessstimated the stance.....i know what you mean, seeing pics with the nose up and the tails down low. This is the way i would prefer to have my build. I'm going to look into it, maybe check other builds.... Don LSP_K2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 Good question.....i guessstimated the stance.....i know what you mean, seeing pics with the nose up and the tails down low. This is the way i would prefer to have my build. I'm going to look into it, maybe check other builds.... Don I'll be real interested in seeing what you come up with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 I haven't heard anything about Waldron in a long time. I still have an old 1/32 jet belt buckle set from them, looks really well done. Don Well, I had a fairly nice stash of Waldron stuff at one time, Luftwaffe, Japanese, American and British, but lost a lot of it in a move a few years back, which I continue to regret. I did manage to keep some though, which was segregated from the stuff that I lost, so that's a plus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmthamade Posted January 6, 2018 Author Share Posted January 6, 2018 I'll be real interested in seeing what you come up with. Well, had a good look around at pics all over the net. What i did find is, the stance could be....any way you decide. The way Trumpeter has it isn't wrong, it's just one way it could be.The way it sits is like it is loaded up with weight compressing everything. To make the build have it's nose up, the nose gear would have to be modified to extend the travel closer to full travel. I don't know about modifying the kit gear, it has to hold a bit of weight. Couldn't find G Factor, don't know if it would have the proper length. I had a look at the SAC stuff again and found something odd. Pic below shows from left to right, SAC#1, SAC#2, Kit part. I have two of the SAC sets, with one having a longer nose strut than the other. The longer strut set is also a recent version, just seems odd how there are different struts. Newer set is also better moulded/cast. You can see it may be enough to get me the stance i need, the concern is whether the soft metal will hold up. I'm thinking i'll have to set the nose weight right to give me a balance to put little weight on the gear, kinda like setting the tongue weight on a trailer. HTH Kev.. Don LSP_K2 and Vandy 1 VX 4 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Don I built mine with Jerry Rutmans "M" conversion, and it came with his own front leg(metal) and it was as long as the longest there and the aircraft had a very nose up stsnce that looked right to me....Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vandy 1 VX 4 Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Don I built mine with Jerry Rutmans "M" conversion, and it came with his own front leg(metal) and it was as long as the longest there and the aircraft had a very nose up stsnce that looked right to me....Harv I have the same set as Harvey and it looks really good to me. So if you going to use the Sac gear use the longer one!!! dmthamade 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmthamade Posted January 6, 2018 Author Share Posted January 6, 2018 The longer SAC gear is the option i'm going to use. Had a look at the Rutman part and it looks to have the same length as you said, Harv. I'm suprised there is such a difference in legs from the same manufacturer, even the sharpness of the recent mold is far better than the old parts. Could be SAC changed things due to feedback? It's a terribly cold day out there today, so will spend time.....rivet filling!!! Yippee.... Don LSP_K2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmthamade Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 Sigh......really short on Mr. Dissolved putty, so what i've done here is 3 coats of Mr. Surfacer 500. No big deal, as i have a lot of sanding to do either way. Finally tacked a part that had me a little worried. The Virginia Marie is a P-38J and doesn't have airbrakes or booster pump bulges on the lower wing surfaces or a leading edge light on the left wing. I got rid of the airbrake mounts by scraping them off and sanding away any small lumps. The part i feared was eliminating the booster pump bulges. Many ways to do this, in the end i cut them out then squared up the holes to fit plugs made up of Evergreen strip styrene .030x.250 and .030x.188. With carefull dryfitting this was a painfree task. Did the same thing to fill the holes for the airbrake actuators. I've been an unwilling participant in the Flu party thats been the sweeping the area, thought it was just a cold, but its really knocked me down, just been doing what i can Don Vandy 1 VX 4 and LSP_K2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vandy 1 VX 4 Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Don hope you feel better! My wife still has it since before xmas. I had it. Nice work on the Compressiblity brakes and pumps. dmthamade 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmthamade Posted January 11, 2018 Author Share Posted January 11, 2018 Don hope you feel better! My wife still has it since before xmas. I had it. Nice work on the Compressiblity brakes and pumps. Starting to feel better, this has been a rough case of the flu. Supposed to be especially bad for everyone this year, everybody be careful out there!!! Hope the wife is feeling better. Did have some time to spend on the build, i installed the parts on top of the wing that covered the engines. Fit was ok, The kit upper wing is very flexible, the dihedral is something that would be difficult to achieve without help. Like all other builds i've seen. i added some reinforcement, using square styrene Evergreen tube as a wing spar. You can use a fairly large diameter piece, th tube i used is .31 square. I did have to add tapers to the tube from the outside of the boom to the tip. The front edge is thinner than the back edge to fit the airfoil shape of the wing. You have to locate it carefully to miss the engine/firewall and the turbo unit. I'll have to paint the turbo and its opening and install it before gluing the wing and boom on. Can't really avoid it much longer, have to start looking at the cockpit. Don Shawn M, BloorwestSiR, BradG and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 You're really plowing through this build Don. The work looks great too. Carl dmthamade 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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