mustang1989 Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 (edited) Lovin' the work so far Andy! This is for BC and Andy: I looked back through my GB and found a post from a little over 4 years ago in the first few pages of the thread. Here's the first of two articles for you guys. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Construction Tips from Eduard: As a result of test-building several kits, Eduard has pointed out several areas requiring special attention during assembly. These include the following: Check the position of the completed cockpit interior to the fuselage halves. Especially the back (upper) part of the cockpit tub must be aligned exactly with line on the fuselage halves. Also the weapon bay must be carefully positioned. Another important point is the wing spar (part I16) installation. In this step (page 5 of the instructions), first glue part K20 into the wing, and then add part I16. This sequence will guarantee that the wing spar will be exactly vertical to the wing bottom. This is crucial for wheel well assembly and the whole wing geometry. Another sensitive point is the engine mount installation. In this point, find the exact position of the part K18 on the reverse (inside of the fuselage) side of the part H12 (wheel well). K18 fits exactly to the notch in the H12. If you glue K18 carefully to the given position, the engine block will easily assume the correct position when it is glued to the engine mount. The locating holes for the main wheels are quite large. This is because the wheel fits to the axle at an angle. Use the instruction picture (page 10) to determine the exact angle of the wheel to the undercarriage leg. While we are talking about the undercarriage, when you will assembly the K7 (u/c leg) to the H1 (u/c cover), the location pins on the leg will give you exact position of the hatch (H1) to the leg. This is similar to the assembly of the u/c to the wing – glue the leg to the fine locating position in the wheel well, and immediately add J30/J37 to the position in the wheel well and on the u/c leg (there is a fine location pin on the leg which fits to the small hole on the end of the tow bar). It will give you exact position of the undercarriage to the wing. This is a different system compared to other manufacturers' kits, but it delivers surprisingly good result. _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Edited February 8, 2017 by mustang1989 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 Here's the second one and this post came straight from one of the members named benzdoc (Mike) at FSM. ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Even though I'm not participating in this GB, I wanted to share my experiences with the Eduard 190 kits. I recently finished the A–8 model, and the fuselage / bulkhead / cockpit / wing fit was disastrous. In fact, I had shelved the model for a while out of disgust and depression about that. However, I've since started a D–9 (with a WIP post about it elsewhere), and had a lot better success in this area. Although everything forward of ammunition holders on the firewall is different, everything rearwards is the same. There were two main errors I made: A. Believing that the bulkhead parts are supposed to be 90° in relation to each other B. Believing that the forward edges of the cockpit floor were good relative alignment points So, on the first part, in the 190 D–9 manual, I found this: Why ever it wasn't included in the A–8 manual, I'll never know. But that made a huge different. OK, 3° isn't a large amount, but given the engineering of this kit, that made a huge difference in my case. Secondly, as was pointed out on the ARC site some time ago by a fellow whose name I can't recall, it's important to focus on the fuselage sides and firewall alignment and let the cockpit float. Only cement it in place later. In my case, these two things made a massive difference. I hope this helps just a little bit. Best regards, Mike _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
titan8251 Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share Posted February 8, 2017 cool! thanks man. ill have another update in a few. Andy mustang1989 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 cool! thanks man. ill have another update in a few. Andy No problemo bubba. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
titan8251 Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share Posted February 8, 2017 Update #4 got all the colors on and now its time to start fading and shading as a whole and the start of the weathering process. Andy mpk, mustang1989 and MikeC 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClumsyDude Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 Nice paint work Andy! Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomber_County Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 Thanks mustang for the articles, I'll have a gander at those at the weekend............ Must admit I'd forgotten I had the D9 in stock......really want to start it now....... mustang1989 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
titan8251 Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share Posted February 8, 2017 dang Iphone camera makes it look all fuzzy when you zoom in. Started putting down the markings with the Montex Masks: Andy MikeC, mustang1989 and mpk 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 Andy: What is it about that shade of green that makes it look so dang cool? Paint work is looking good so far!! Phil: No problem at all bud. Start up that 190 thread dude!! I'll be all over that like a rat on a cheeto!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 Speaking of "rat on a cheeto", it looks like you're all over this thing Andy. Superb painting and decal work!!! Good Lord man!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
titan8251 Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 thanks for the compliments fellas. I hope to finish this thing up this weekend. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ringleheim Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Looks great! What paint are you using, and do you mind sharing your mixing formulas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
titan8251 Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 Looks great! What paint are you using, and do you mind sharing your mixing formulas? No problem. I am using Gunze Aqueous RLM 76, 82, 75. I just used the colors straight out of the bottle and faded them with lighter and darker shades of green, dark Gray and light gray and even some white to lighten up some of the panels. hope this helps, Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
titan8251 Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 Time for a small update. Got it all decal'd up and washed. Still may go back and do a little bit more shading and fading a little here and there. The end is near and hope to have it finished soon. Andy mustang1989, MikeC, LSP_K2 and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Andy Geez Fantastic work ... the paint and weathering and spot on and look simply stellar Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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