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1/200 HMS Rodney with Shagbat: Maintopmast and Topgallant


Uncarina

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I *really* want to crack on with my Hood - but have commission/mag projects to finish first.  :(

 

Your progress and photos make me want to dig it out and crack on - but mustn't get sidetracked again! And, truth be told, I'm more than a little scared of not doing the kit and Pontos set justice...

 

Absolutely brilliant scale for ships like these, isn't it!

 

Iain

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Iain,

 

I do understand, and I respect your commitment! This is my first 1/200 ship after building quite a few in 1/350, and I'm not tempted to go back. Although, truth be told, I really wish Trumpeter would scale up their 1/350 HMS Abercrombie or HMS Roberts, or the Richelieu...

 

Cheers, Tom

Edited by Uncarina
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Guest Maxim

Here's a good reference for your build. I have a couple of  his Cd's and they are really good.

10408871_1603958019875017_80208735987793

Edited by Maxim
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Stunning work !!! I dabble a bit in 1/350 ships but I am very tempted for one of those 1/200...

 

Amazing that a Walrus can be launced with such a short catapult...

Thomas, it would be great to see your work on this or any other ship in this scale. I agree about the Walrus, and I look fordward to painting so I can get her ready to launch!

 

Cheers, tom

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You are very kind! Not much skill needed here, just the necessity to cut and bend small brass. It is amazing to me how small some of the parts are for such a big scale. I'd be better off sticking to 1/700 scale!

 

Cheers, Tom

 

How are you gluing it all in place? That's where I'd most likely mess it up.

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Kevin,

 

I bet it looks great! The biggest trick I've encountered is folding the parts after insuring a good cut from the fret. Those nubs can be pesky!

 

Cheers, Tom

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Guest Maxim

I use manicure scissors to cut parts from the fret and leave a good piece of tab. I then trim right to the edge of the part with the scissors once again. A very light swipe with an emery board and the jobs done.

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For big cuts I use Xuron photoetch scissors, but for most of this build I use a round profile X-Acto blade, position right next to the part, and press while rocking back and forth (the blade, not me). If needed, I use a jeweler's file for any remaining nub.

 

Aside from this, a key thing for me is knowing how much spring the brass has so I know how much to overbend to make a fold. Another is knowing whether to fold towards me or away, not always clear with this set!

 

Cheers, Tom

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Guest Maxim

I pass my  photo etch through a gas flame to anneal it and soften it up so it's easier to work with..

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