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Hasegawa Ki43


Koala

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Regarding your decanting of the tamiya metallic paint, does the decanting process change the paint at all, or do you do this just to get a more even spray from the airbrush, than you would have from the spray can?

 

Mate, I gotta confess to using big words to sound like I know what I am doing.... "decanting" whatever that means.... sounds good.

 

What I was refering to was, I discovered from a few test sprays from the can that I have absolutely no control over how it goes on. For me, from the can, it goes on thick and splattery . Good for an expensive detail-hider or orange peel effect and bugger all else.

 

Now, I simply spray it from the can, as required, into my airbrush bottle. I do this through a hole in an old singlet/rag to minimise blow-back and splatter. I then think down about 30 - 40% ish with Tamiya lacquer thinners.

 

Remembering that I am a complete novice to airbrush painting, IMHO the Tamiya metal sprays beautifully. Really good control, coverage and no clogging. Very unlike the Gunze Mr Colour metal range which I am still really struggling with as they seem to clogg up all the time.

 

Anyhow - hope that gives the answer. In short - its a better spray than from the can.

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well it looks not bad (a pommie term of praise) at all.

As far as metallic paint goes, I remember from my days as an apprentice signwriter that metallics have a definite particle direction. If you spray a certain tone in one direction and then reverse the direction for another area close to te original, you get the effect of a tonal difference. Its a sure way of spotting if that car you just bought has been in a prang.

Of course it depends on the type of paint used. I also tried using different primer colours on my P-51 ages ago and used a preshade style of thing using blues and grays. It sort of worked but needed a bit more experimentation.

The putnam book by Rene J Francillion Japanaese Aircraft of WWII (title?) has some good and detailed references on the application and production of aircraft which is a good benchmark for the application of colour.

I think that by the time the Yanks were lining up to invade the home islands , most Japanese would have been reduced to eating paintbrushes.

I think that JApanese aircraft have an even broader scope for colour interpretation than Luftwaffe stuff, its no exact science and the opportunity for a bit of modelling licence is there. The use of coloured laquers over bare metal interior surfaces is another fascinating area.

 

A full build article is a must for this model and it would be great if you would be willing to do an article from the perspective of being relatively new to large scale modelling.

That would be excellent, no pressure though, we might send our Australian rep around to look at your other foot... B)

good stuff

Tony

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Relatively happy with the result. Most pleasing results were in the cowl area. A bit dissapointed with the result on the wing and stabiliser tops... its a learning process and working with negative shapes is tricky. I was worried that the green splotches were going to be too big on the horizontal surfaces - in fact the opposite turned out to be true.

 

Oh well, the meatballs on the wings and other decals should balance it out a bit.

post-4-1108177289.jpg

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**** me mate! How in the **** did you do that????? :rolleyes: :D :o :o :o :o :o :o

I have never seen that approach... may I ask, what is maskol (sp?)... my God mate that is quite the picture...... could you explain that a little bit more for the rest of us un worthy blokes?? I have started to take a look at my Japanese a/c as of late, been reading about them and have wondered many times how the hell am I going to get that bloched effect?? But that is just amazing..... like the first time I saw a light bulb.... wow! Please explain a little bit more to me.... I am sure that others will want to know as well!!!

Cheers

Alan..... already to much dark ale in the pit...

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Hi Alaninaustria. As far as getting the low down on Japanese WWII aircraft paintjobs goes, thanks to the kind directions of LSP members, I have been greatly assisted by J-aircraft.com site and in particular this article -> Weathering Japanese Aircraft

 

Maskol is a waterbased rubber solution that I obtained from my local hobby store. It comes in a small jar around the same size as Mr Surfaces. Its purple in colour and when applied in its liquid state, quickly dries to a darker purple, rubbery film. It has one thousand and one uses I'm sure.

 

One of the (few) advantages to being a modelling newby is that I am (apparently) stumbling across a few new approaches which (seemingly) aren't widely used by more experienced modellers. I have an old 1980's Japanese publication on the Ki43 with text in Japanese (incomprehenisible to me) and lots of old photographs. What is clear from these is that there were as many approaches used to applying camoflage as there were IJA fighter units.

 

The plane I am trying to depict had its camo applied by brush in large blotches. If I airbrused these on, it wouldn't have produced the hard edge of both brush applied and peeled paint. After much pondering I decided on the maskol.

 

It is a bit tricky as you are working with negative shapes, that is, you are applying the maskol to the bit that won't carry the paint. I am unhappy with the result I got on the wing surfaces as the final pattern is too regular and sparse.

 

Anyway thanks for the kind words of encouragement. I hope the information has been of interest.

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Guest LSP_Jay L

Simply Friggin awesome Koala. I love my Japanese subjects and am very deeply impressed by this model. Nice one mate!

 

Cheers,

 

Jay

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Fantastic, Koala...

Love the engine detail.

Would also be interested in how much time has been spent on the completed model.

Just for benchmarking purposes against how long it takes me.

 

Regards, Cornay.

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