P-39 D1 Airacobra (G. Welch)

[Lee White]

 

 

Ha! that's great! And accurate, too!

[Tomek]

Well, I had enough struggles with "enhancements" of the landing gear and it's time to stop. I'm bit frustrated ...

What you see below it's my third attempt in scratch building the nose wheel fork. It's still not as I wanted, but I give up. It's better than the original and it's turned while the torque links remain in right position and that's what I will emphasize

 

First some photos of the "raw" fork. I used some pictures from AircrafResourceCenter for reference. I trimmed to half the original part, used it as a template to cut similar strip of paper. Than with 0.8mm wire I made a fork, which was than sandwiched with these strips of cardstock.

 

 

Before painting it looked OK. I was hopping to position the wire centrally on strips, but that was quite difficult as I didn't want to move the fork too ahead of the strut (that would look wrong). The back looks fine, but the front came out totally flat after CA and paint . I just have to live with it.

 

 

 

Nosewheel retraction mechanism in place, and overall photo:

 

 

 

 

Now I need to confess something. I was aware of this issue for a while now, but somehow there was no occasion to bring it up .

Keeping proper symmetry in aircraft paper models is real challenge. Installation of a landing gear is always a moment of truth, and I lost it here. My right wing is a little bit twisted and that is visible now. The wing is also about 3mm lower on the tip than left. Where exactly I made mistake, I don't know, but I'm suspecting it could be avoided by strengthening the wings frame with extra cardboard.

 

 

Edited June 14, 2011 by Tomek

[big matt]

Ok, this is where the smoke and mirrors come in Tomek. If you had not said anything regarding the asymmetry in the wings I am sure I would not have noticed. I still have a hard time seeing an issue. The nose wheel rework looks great.

 

Also, if you don't want to use enamels try thinning acrylics with a little water and dishwashing detergent. Just a tiny amount mixed in the water first then add the mixture to the paint. It will slow the dry time down some and make it easier to get a smooth coat of paint. Additionally, Vallejo Model Air paints, which are designed to be airbrushed, flow on with a brush exceptionally well and can be made to look almost like they came from an airbrush.

 

Just a thought.

 

Great progress!

[PhilB]

I'm with the big fella on this one.

Unless you are looking dead straight on its not obvious and even then I'd need a ruler to show any difference.

Keep going!

 

Phil

[Tomek]

I feel already better, guys

I'm thinking about building some kind of base which would help to hide some of the flaws.

Thanks Matt for tips, I guess I just need a bigger paint job to get some practice and experience ... scratched build cockpit maybe ...

Next, finishing up the rest of details on her belly and the propeller.

[miamiangler]

Tomek, looks fine to me , your a master with paper

[Tomek]

Thanks miamiangler, just trying my best (not always with the best results )

 

I supposed to take care of the propeller, but while assembling the drop tank rack I realized I need a fuel tank to see if these two elements fit together. In the beginning I was not quite sure I will include a 145 gallon auxiliary fuel tank provided in the kit worrying a bit it may affect beautiful shapes of the aircraft. I was wrong, of course. Since P-39 sits kind of high, the tank composes with the rest very well, and I think enhances the look.

 

The assembly of the tank looked pretty straightforward and it was. Fun too.

 

 

 

 

Each segment was burnished from inside on a eraser to give it a little curvature. Segments were first glued to each other then the formers where added for strength. I was not satisfied with still visible cut lines on the nose and end, so following my experiences with tail section where I resorted to sanding and painting I decided to do it here as well, only this time a little bit different.

First the tank was covered with CA, questionable areas where sanded and than instead of painting them with acrylics, I dry brushed carefully enamel paint. The results I believe are better this time.

 

Photo below shows 3 stages of the tank: original (see cut lines on the nose), product after CA application, sanding and painting and finally after flat coat. I used Dullcote this time, which was sitting for a while on my bench now. My staple flat was acrylic Krylon, but I’m sold now. I fell in love with Dullcote.

 

 

 

 

I imagined the tank to be pretty banged up, so I made few indentations … Al right! I dropped it few times, so what!

I experimented a little bit with weathering. I tried to add some paint chips, which was rather failed attempt. I painted with Vallejo aluminum chips and then sanded gently edges of the paint to give it more irregular shapes. I really couldn’t capture it well on the photos.

 

 

 

 

And general shots how the belly of my Airacobra looks like at this moment. Following PhilB’s advice given way back at my fuselage assembly I added some streaks to cover up difference in color in painted area. I may try to make some corrections there.

 

 

 

 

I’m almost there guys, so please hang on.

Edited June 23, 2011 by Tomek

[Hubert Boillot]

Achieving such curves with card is simply mind-boggling ! Great work Tomek !

And, eeehh....if I may...your drop tank looks misaligned vs the plane centerline....

 

Hubert.

[Tomek]

And, eeehh....if I may...your drop tank looks misaligned vs the plane centerline....

 

I was wondering if anybody will catch that . I forgot to mention that for now the tank just sits on the rack, it's not glued yet and I'll try to position it correctly.

Thanks Hubert!

[big matt]

That drop tank is awesome. I like the dents and chips. Did the paper come with the stains around the filler or is that your handi-work too???

 

Question, are you covering the tank with thin ca or just dullcote?

[Ripaman]

Looking very good Tomek, I can see you are almost there and you will have a model that you will be very proud of, and to say that you try your best is an understatement!! you are a master of the card.

 

Regards

Richard

[Tomek]

Matt, the whole tank is covered in CA. I did it for two reasons. Although only both ends where heavily sanded I was worried that prolonged handling may take a toll on unprotected card. CA made it bit more tough. The second reason was the paint chips. I wasn't sure where exactly I want to place them and since I was planing some light sanding of their edges I thought it would be the best solution. CA is just Krazy Glue, it's pretty thin and I have it in abundance. After application I wipe imminently any excess with paper towel.

I'll keep experimenting with this method of paint chips, maybe next time the results will be better. Of course, I'm open on any suggestions.

The stains around the cap are my work. Is it something wrong with it? Be frank! I want a professional critique.

 

Hey Richard, thanks for the compliments! I need to tell you though that whenever I feel happy with my skills I get "refreshing" cold shower browsing through some dedicated to paper/card models forums from Central Europe. Some guys over there are insane and sick!

[big matt]

I am quite sure I cannot give you a professional critique. I liked the staining and wondered how weathered the paper kits come or if they are "factory" new looking.

[Tomek]

In general paper kits depict factory new state. The kits from the high shelve have some quite realistic weathering, but it's always very subtle. I'm guessing it's easier to sell these kind of models since not everybody likes abused machines. On the other hand it gives a modeler some room for making it more unique .

[Guest Peterpools]

Just keeps getting better and better.

Peter