blackbetty Posted July 16, 2010 Author Share Posted July 16, 2010 with some persuasion i was able to push the front part of the LERX further in and make it butt against the strip on the inside. remember the fuse makes a steep bow outward here uh,oh anybody still know what i´m talking about, because i´m not that sure myself will see how that one turns out tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allok Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 Well this will teach me for not paying closer attention. Now I have three pages of pure magic to catch up on... Way to go Karl! At least one guy is interrested. Add one more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 ....Guy: look at the pic below, it shows a comparison between the real thing and the revell kit just look at the angle of the gunport {~snip~} Oh my goodness Karl. I see what you mean. The difference is very apparent from that view You're doing a fine job of rectifying the issues, well done. Now you have given me something else to ponder regarding the Revell kit I'll follow with great interest to see how your modifications improve the overall silhouette of the airframe. BRAVO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbetty Posted July 19, 2010 Author Share Posted July 19, 2010 thanx keith thanx for the kind words, guy. your builds on ARC have always been an inspiration to me (not that i want to compare mine to your works of art) ok, al the plastic inserts are fixed and the fuselage side now looks like this i want to try the new tamiya light-curing putty for the smoothing, it is said to scribe like plastic. i have ordered some from hongkong, but it hasnt arrived yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbetty Posted July 19, 2010 Author Share Posted July 19, 2010 a rear view of the correction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbetty Posted July 19, 2010 Author Share Posted July 19, 2010 and from the front i think this and the spine correction should better the overall appearence of the model pretty much, the engine conversion doing the rest to get a more accurate 29 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daywalker Posted July 19, 2010 Share Posted July 19, 2010 Wow! I can't imagine cutting up a kit like that, but the difference here is is very apparent. Great idea on the T-shaped inserts to strengthen everything too, thanks! I have heard about that light-curing putty, but not that is scribes like plastic. Do let us know how you get on with it, as that feature alone would make it worth every penny. Keep up the great work here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbetty Posted July 21, 2010 Author Share Posted July 21, 2010 thanx for following along, daywalker i have tried the stuff on the cut now, but i think i am not using it correctly. have to try some more, there is a learning curve with it anyway, i have squirted ona a quick guide coat of primer to reveal the imperfections and there are a lot Uncarina 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbetty Posted July 21, 2010 Author Share Posted July 21, 2010 for sanding in very tight areas like this thought i would try a new tool (not my idea): out of a cheap electric tooothbrush i made this sander. just glued on some waterproof 3M automotive sandpaper. one fine 600 grit one 280 (i think) it works just fine, the vibrations are taking off material slowly, but steadily. you have pretty good control with the handle. the spots around the bump are much easier to sand that way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 Nice surgery there Karl (Good way of flattening the LERX - Well picked up ). Looks like you're really going to town on this one...I shall stay tuned Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbetty Posted July 22, 2010 Author Share Posted July 22, 2010 thanks for following along, derek while i did cut the port side of the fuselage and inserted the "T"section, there is not much to show a lot of dryingtime made me search for other mods i could do, where i wouldnt have to touch the fuselage so i started on the vertical stabs the front part containing the chaff/flare ejectors has to be cut off, chris´kit contains replacenments that are correctly shaped, with cover over the ejector holes (like most of ther time on the real thing) the fin has to be reshaped on top with a plastic insert that will be puttied and sanded later the bottom of the fin is too long and has to be cut off, all using the templated in the excellent zactomodels instructions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbetty Posted July 22, 2010 Author Share Posted July 22, 2010 the bottom of the fins where they butt against the fuselage top has to be remove inside to be able to squezze the parts together to make them narrower and match the chaff ejectors immediately in front of them. before inserting some material and glueing them togther... more dryingtime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbetty Posted July 22, 2010 Author Share Posted July 22, 2010 meanwhile i took a look at the CAM pit and it dawned to me that i have no russian aircraft colours at all the inside is that strange aquamarine colour i think (later found out its light grey) anybody know where i can get the right shades? also the green of the wheelhubs, or the overall grey and green (acrylics, preferably gunze) detail on the pit shows its age, but my mediochre painting skills wouldnt do a better pit justice anyway, so its no big deal its the only game in town (beside the eduard photoetch interior set) stay tuned... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbetty Posted July 23, 2010 Author Share Posted July 23, 2010 thanks for watching, harv, hope its at least a little entertaining a strip of resin (casting block of the chaff dispenders works like a charm) between the vertical stabilator halfs, some superglue, and voilá, they are the right width Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbetty Posted July 23, 2010 Author Share Posted July 23, 2010 the finished thing should look like this the dispenser isnt attached permanently i have marked both stabs and the dispensers with L and R, to keep them on their side, because the stabs are angled outward, the dispensers inward (they fire between the stabs, not outboard) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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