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AVIS 32nd Scale EV BUILD


Mike

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I have to give thanks ALSO to a new good friend GARY BARLING of CANADA for sending me his "Fokker Streaked Camo" Effect Technique. I really like it is simlpicity and consistent good results. A pre-shade of Color is Sparyed and then "Streaked" with a Flat Brisstle Brush.

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My Problem was I was too much in a hurry and smuded the Mocha Brown Acrylic COlors I used while they were in Mid Setting and like a Quick setting Slab of COncrete. I was too exicted to see if the Tubed Acrylic Artist's Colors would Airbrush before I added a retarder to keep them from near instantly trying. I smudged them with a mask while I was spraying the green.

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In retrospect I think it might have been Easier to work with SLOW Drying Artist's Oils as was suggested to me with a accelerator. Stright Oil colors can literly take weeks to dry.

 

But I knew I wanted to try GBARLINGS technqiue of Spraying them so I ended up down the Acrylic Isle at Peral's Art Supply Stores.

http://www.pearlpaint.com/

Another good friend Suggested Liquitex which is a thinner and drying retarder for Acrylics. Otherwise they are like Correction FLiud They dry Instaneously. I mixed them with the thinner, water and a little Isoporpyl in empty jars.

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NOW for my CONFESSION...The Utimate Scale Modelers SIN !!

I MOTORIZED IT !!!!! AHhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!

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WHile I was in the build I couldnt decide on the Engine to Use. The Avis Kit(Roden) Engine, a Vector Resin Engine or a Tom's Modelworks White Metal Engine ?

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It came down to which one I could get the Intake Pipes on the quickest and easiest. It was a Debate. I was leaning toward the vector engine when I remembered I had Already completely finished the BattleAxe (BA) Resin Engine. Admittedly the best (Only ?) Part of a BA KIT.

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This was a Electric Motor I found at Hobby Lobby in the RC Car Section as an accessorie for one of those 2" "HotWheel" Size RC Cars. I think it was $1.99

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I slipped the motor inside a Aluminum tube which I used to mount it thru the Firewall. I secured it at the rear with a cut of Styrene Sheet and CA'ed it to the floor. It was too late to conceal the Batteries in the rear of the fuselage behind the Cockpit so I ran the Leads out thru the bottom of the Fuselage Engine cowl Disguised as the Landing Gear Rigging. I drilled them thru the Gear Fairing and will put them thru the bottom of the base and hide them with "Grass".

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HERE IS THE MOTOR RESULTS....

 

Now everybody put your LIPS together and evrybody say.....

BBBBbbbbrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr rr !

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Marty Digmeyer Prop from CopperState, POLISH PART PE Prop Hub. Homemade Brass Prop Shaft. Dremeled out / thinned the Inside walls of the Cowling.

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IT"S ALIIIIIIIIIIIVEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE..............!!!!

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BUT I tell you WHAT I am SUCH a NUT In LOVE with the Rotory Engine Mechanics that I think it is SO neat to actually see what that prop AND Engine Crankcase LOOK LIKE SPINING AROUND together.

 

BUT Actually heres what I wanted to tell you all and would appreciate some feed back. I HACKED this Motor in to this Kit and IT is Just a Motor.

 

THERE IS an OUT FIT : Pre 1945 Aircraft

 

Dynamic Scale Modeling

 

That for $50 Bucks WILL Design teh right size motor and batteries needed to Spin the Motor/Prop together WITH a Sound Board of a Electronicly recored Rotory Engine Start/Run Up and Shutdown phased in to run with the motor ?

 

Then it would be $50 more per Copy ? I bought a TOTAL of 6 Avis Kits Myself to build each of DAN's Profiles and I have 15 more to offer but I was wondering if anyone or all think it would be worth investing in ?

TO have them make a System for this kit AND weather ot purchase any A) FOr myself & :( to Offer for anyone else who may want one these kits from me too ?

 

What do you think ?

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Mike, HAH! I was right! When you showed your pic of the engine, I saw the wires, and suspected something. nice trick there. On the ejection tubes, maybe coat them with something to take away the flexible hose look. they should ,of course be smooth. If you use oils, there is a product called "japan drier" that speeds drying time for oils. Very interesting color interpretations of the wing. The spada decals look great, and the color over it is wild. In the replica DVIII I see a sight glass for the fuel; is that supposed to be there? The pump handle is just below. It makes sense, and I'd add it to my DVIII. The intakes on the engine should be copper color? Do the gun butts get crash pads out of leather?

A very nice build, and your doing a great job on the kit. When OH when is Roden going to do the DVII? Almost the whole family then, just lacking the eindecker. I see the fokker streaky color still applied at a 45* angle, just like the dope; old habits ,I guess. The 1/2 wing nuts are a nice effect also. Are you going to weather this?

Thanks again, a great tutorial build, especially with the new,radical color interpretations.

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Dear MIKE Your Right !! I havent done the Finishing yet so I havent re-painted or corrected a lot of small things. GOOD Catch on the Lead Wires !! Yes it was a Two Rib Diagonal Pull from the Leading to Trailing Edge of the Wing. Well it was the Same Factory that did it to save materials in production before on the Dr I & Early DVII. I had the intake tube copper but there is an 110 HP Orbeusal in the USAF Meusum with brand new Aluminum ones so What the the Heck. I'll make the new ones Copper anyway cause I am going to try to the Roden Kit Engine and as soon as I have the Extra BUCK I will get the SOUND / MOTOR System for it from Dymanic Scale Modeling. It will be like what they did fo rthe Tamiyia Anniversary AM6G Mitsubishi ZERO WWII FIghter release with the Motor and Sound. I'll use them on the sister build I have to make real quick to show off SPADA's new LOZ.

 

AS a Large Scael AND WWI Plane NUT I am absolutely Thrilled at the number of recent Releases in this area. Unforthunately for me I am SUCH a NUT they cant possibly come out fast enough. I think from the Rate of New KITs and future releases announced I am fairly certain they WILL Eventually get around to re-releaseing the Entire WWI line of ACFT in this Scale.

ROden has made it offical and Added the Nie 28 to its 32nd Scale Future release line up. And once again its sequencial Stock Number indicates there are several missing un-annouced planes coming.

 

AVIS has written me and promised to send one of its first new relreases which IF I am not mistaken wil be another 32nd Nieuport Bebe (11) we shall see. !!!

 

IF you want to Start a WISH LiST MY FIRST WOULD be a 32nd Siemans Schuckart D.III with a 11 clyinder Obrusal and then a DH2 Pusher, AND then ANd then AND then.....

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Yours Mike

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NOW for my CONFESSION...The Utimate Scale Modelers SIN !!

I MOTORIZED IT !!!!! AHhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh....................that ain't no sin that's having FUN :) .I love the build and the colors are a real beaut along with the wood grain effect.I have a 1/48 I bought just because of the color scheme now your making me itch for that one.Keep the pics coming!!

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NOW for my CONFESSION...The Utimate Scale Modelers SIN !!

I MOTORIZED IT !!!!! AHhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh....................that ain't no sin that's having FUN :D .I love the build and the colors are a real beaut along with the wood grain effect.I have a 1/48 I bought just because of the color scheme now your making me itch for that one.Keep the pics coming!!

A question, if you please.

What, pray tell, is wrong with motorizing the model?

This is a hobby, you did not join the goddam army and you are not working for a megalomaniac corporation like IBM!

A hobby is a personal thing.

In a hobby one can do whatever one wants to!

What do you care if some anal retentive imbicile with a complete lack of imagination criticizes you because you dare to to build what you want to build the way you want to build it?

Sheese! You should be proud to do something different.

Apparently plastic scale modelers are really a very inhibited group of people.

Guys who build and fly model airplanes are seldom bothered by such nonsense. B)

Guys who build and operate model railroads are way less inhibited than the poor dears who build plastic scale models. :P

Even ship modelers have members who love to make their models operate.

Model submaines actually submerge and some even surface again! ;)

There is even a group of guys who make large operating scale ship models that actually fight with each other. They have a waterproof power and control unit within a balsa wood battleship. The guns actually shoot BBs and these RC models actually fight it out until the enemy actually sink. What fun they have! ;)

And you are concerned because you motorized your plastic model aeroplane? :)

Exercise your imagination! :D

Free yourself from your inhibitions! :P

You have nothing to lose but your chains! (Gee, that sounds familiar, doesn't it?) :wacko:

I have spoken! :P

Ssculptor

:) :) B)

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Daer Javilin/and Sculptor THANKS !!! NOting NEw to report. Wont beable to attack this puppy til this weekend and clean it up before attemoting to add ZE WIng / Here's a little better light.

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FOR ME this wasnt easy at all. In fact if it weren't for EVERYONE's Encouragement I doubt I might ever have treid it, But it WORKED> The wing not only is attached, yes the spindally little struts hold it.

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I used an AeroClub Jig. I put the wing upside down and used a Level Bubble to make sure it was flat. BUT to be honest the Rest of the Jig just got in my way. It has attachments which are meant to hold the fuselage but I found them more in the way to do me any good in this operation. BUt the Overall Jig was still a winner for me.

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The Kit parts worked well except for a 1/16 inch gap I had with the support struts for the A Frame Struts. If I had ben abel to fit it earlier I might have been able to lengthen them with a plug of Styrene rectangular Rod but instead I took a length of Brass Struz and Cut New Pieces.

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Wow man that is simply breathtaking. What an excellent job you are doing there. It looks great. Also very informative for someone like myself who is not really into WWI stuff. Thanks for sharing and keep them coming.

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