Ironwing Posted December 7, 2007 Author Share Posted December 7, 2007 last one...I'll be back. These have too much glare Chris? I've also redone the outboard doors. I'll put them in the next post. Hope everyone is well... Cheers Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted December 13, 2007 Author Share Posted December 13, 2007 All, Are we tired of looking at gear shots yet? I am and Im tired of trying to get them done. The scissors made me nuts, but they are done. Well, as done as they are going to get. Now i get to do the wheel wells . Should I ever suggest trying this again, just put a bullet in my head. Without the tow rings and the brake line details each gear leg takes (or at least it took me) twenty six pieces. That doesnt include the several thousand pieces I shot someplace into the basement and all the failures. The scissor itself is made of litho plate aluminum. I tried ABS...soda can...and solder that had been flattened and casting. Obviously, I couldnt get any of those to work or wasnt happy with the way the end item turned out. Heres what the net result is...Does this qualify as scratch built? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted December 13, 2007 Author Share Posted December 13, 2007 closer shots of the oleo and scissor assembly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted December 13, 2007 Author Share Posted December 13, 2007 >>> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted December 13, 2007 Author Share Posted December 13, 2007 >>> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod77 Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Good job mate! I'm checking every day for progress on your kit. I have just recieved a set of dry transfer stencils from Hobbydecal via this site for my Mustang! There nice and if you haven't already taken them up on the offer, I would suggest that you should Cheers mate, Nimrod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted December 13, 2007 Author Share Posted December 13, 2007 Last one. Enough of the gear. I cant say this was easy. Building these things was one experiment after another. I know how Victor Frankenstein must have felt. I will also say that they are about as accurate as they can be, or at least as accurate as I can get them. If anyone is interested, let me know, and I'll give you the exact details of what needs to be done. Everything will now need a bit of clean up a good cleaning and repriming then on to the well detail. I can't wait. Hope everyone is well... Cheers, Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted December 13, 2007 Author Share Posted December 13, 2007 Thanks Nim, I have the dry transfer sheet for the Mustang. Youre right, it's very nice. It does however have a couple of mistakes on it. The decal placement sheet would have you put the flap extension indicator on the trailing edge of the wing. Im sure you know it doesnt go there. I'm also unsure about the ring decal that goes around the wing fuel filler caps. I don't think WW II Mustangs were marked as such. I still need to research this more. Perhaps, if Christian sees this post, he can shed some light on this for us. Ill make it a point to check over at the 51 SIG. There is a great deal of Mustang knowledge over there and the guys are more than willing to help. Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPNGROATS Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Dear Ironwing: Very nice detailed landing gear...very prototypical.... Well done..! Cheers, ggc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Amazing persistence Geoff, and an amazing result too. I would have given up long ago... Looking forward to seeing more. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tourist Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Stunning stuff as usual! I can't believe how clean your build is. The tailwheel should be fun. You're right about the circular stencil for the gas filler caps, they were used post war, ANG and Korea Mustangs had more stencils than they did in WWII. As far as I know there was a single line (in red) under the cap reading "suitable for aromatic fuel". The same stencil was used under the fuselage gas filler cap. PS: I posted a link with a photo of the main wing spar on the SIG. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted December 16, 2007 Author Share Posted December 16, 2007 Ok, so it wasn't the last of the gear shots. This a living example of the "slippery slope" I've done the gear door detents, added the upper segment of the brake lines, the tow rings to the lower gear section and installed the hub detail on the outer wheel rim. Believe me when I say it takes time to make all this stuff, try not to lose it and get it where it belongs before you break something. Along with this stuff, Ive started the wing and have the outer gear doors reworked. Im getting there... Im looking for a supplier of small nuts so I can complete the brake lines I tried Mastercasters but cant seem to find a usable URL with which to contact them...anyone have one? Another state of the gear shot: The gear door detents are made from .040 rod stock drilled through using an .020 bit. These reside on the gear door arms which come from the sides of the main shaft. Once drilled, they were machined down and cut to size. These attach to the inside surface of the outer gear door. The brake line is made from .015" mag wire. The brake lines on the lower section remain to be done. Note: Those of you building the Dragon kit straight from the box: The inboard wheel rims are made for only one side. That is, the brake line, when you try to attach it, will have no place to attach to. Be aware of this discrepency and rotate one of the inboard rim faces to make the brake line attachment point be where the brake line wants it to be. First the prop and now this. It isnt a big deal but I think they could have caught this in QAE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted December 16, 2007 Author Share Posted December 16, 2007 hub detail...the tow ring is at the bottom of the gear lower section and appears as a flat ring and is made from .015" diameter solder that was wrapped around a piece of .020" rod stock to form the ring then flattened to make the flat ring. The reworked outer gear door is also included. It has a story all its own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted December 16, 2007 Author Share Posted December 16, 2007 Outer gear doors: The outer doors are from the Hasegawa kit. Looking at the edges of the Hasegawa part you can see they are way too thick. To get around this, trim off the perimiter of the door down to the internal framing. Once the edge is removed, sand down(on the door side) until only the frame remaines. Replace the door skin with .010" card stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaninaustria Posted December 16, 2007 Share Posted December 16, 2007 Im looking for a supplier of small nuts so I can complete the brake lines I tried Mastercasters but cant seem to find a usable URL with which to contact them...anyone have one? Geoff, already dropped you a PM reagrding the little brass nuts.... or you can go to the thread you started earlier here: Jay's Brass ones... (just scroll down to my answer... and click on Jay'y brass ones.... Cheers, Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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