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Found 9 results

  1. Hi guys, I’m currently building the Kitty Hawk 1/48 RF-101C Voodoo (a smooth and pleasant ride despite what’s being said In some circles). My intention is to do an Vietnam-era replica in one of the early test camouflage. During my research, I noticed that Voodoo of that theater often carry a different kind of auxiliary tanks, slimmer and longer than their European counterparts.   I curious to know where those peculiar tanks come from. Since the RF-101s used in Vietnam were originally based in Japan, were these long tanks associated with their base in Japan ( just like the Misawa tanks on the F-86 during the Korean War?) What do you Voodoo fans, think?  Thank you for your input. Cheers, Quang 
  2. Hey everyone, long time no talked, Since I built that baby OOB 4 years ago, I always wanted to do a NAM Raider a bit different than the usual one we mostly see.... And had that one stalled in my stash for quite a while.... And then came AOA came with this sheet........ hummmm, why not peanut.. And most particularly this one... Ohhhh YES...... Iron rain you asked, Iron rain you'll get....lol. with a touch of heat..... Didn't get all my goodys yet and still have some more to order but want to keep it a very simple, built and no fancy scratch at all..(anyway, I'm no good at scratching stuff....lol.) Going to use: this up mention AOA decal sheet, AMS Prop, wheels and Napalm canister, Master's barrel and Aerobonus pilot. More picture than talking I will... wan't to keep the odds in my favor to finish this GB in time.. So hope you'll enjoy and will start posting picture soon. Quick and easy, that's my new mojo. Dan.
  3. I am feeling some strong urges to tackle the Trumpeter A6=A in USMC Vietnam-era colors (land-based or carrier-based is equally OK). Can one of y'all provide a list of all the AM things I should include? Spare no detail. Thanks in advance.
  4. Hello Fello modelers, this is my first post in a long while here on LSP, I have been super busy with two jobs and life hindering my build time, you all know the excuse but I have finally completed something to show. Our local Hobby club had an F-4 Phantom group build this summer and this is what I did for it. I used the Tamiya 1/32nd scale F-4C/D Phantom kit which was an awsome kit and went together with no problems. It took me about 2 1/2 months or so to do when I could get the time. I wanted to do a mig killer from the Vietnam War with the Aircraft grey scheme the Phantoms first used at the beginning of the war, some of which came from MacDill Airforce base from my home state of Florida. I choose to do aircraft BU # 64-0693 (FJ-693) from the 45th TFS out of Ubon, Thailand in 1965 which became the first Mig Killer Aircraft of the war. I used Model Masters Aircraft Grey as the Base color and Model Masters white for the bottom. I used MM Magnesium for the exhaust area with some MM Titanium dry brushed in the middle of the panels to give it a dirtied affect. I used Flory Models dark dirt wash for panel lines and weathering the paint. I then used some Windsor and Newton water based oils the do staining and streaking. The decals Had to be home made from my printer since I could not get these decals in 1/32nd scale, also used some spare decals from my stash to complete it. The only thing I am missing is the Mission bombs and Mig kills on the left Intake panel that I will need to get somehow. I had a few flaws here and there on it but overall I am very pleased at how this Model came out and I think this is one of my best ones to date. I hope you all enjoy the model and I also wanted to say that when I have had the chance to lurk on the forum you guys have done some awsome outstanding model building on this forum and I have a great appreciation and feel priviledeged to be a part of this forum. Thanks and Enjoy your Summer Boys while you still can. Chris Causey P.S Pics Heavy.
  5. Hello all, I'm new here and wanted to share a recent project, one that is nine tenths finshed - but may benefit from being shown from the beginning. I've loved Phantoms since I was a child - their taut, 'business-like' appearance and reputation for power and speed always appealed. Later, as a young(er) adult I was also fortunate enough to see, courtesy of Her Majesty, an RAF version engage ground targets with its vulcan gun. Not something to forget in a hurry. Anyhow, my build is a US Navy version, namely the VF-92 aircraft flown by Curt Dose and Jim McDevitt in their successful raid on Kep airfield in 1972. It is a fascinating story - engagingly told by the pilot himself here . I also like the white noses of that squadron and the 'I-don't-give-a-damn-whether-you-can-see-me-or-not' attitude of the overall schemes of that period. My version is a bit different from most models of this or similar subjects, however. I set out to build-in the following features: working flight controls, retractable undercart, wheel suspension, working lights, illuminated cockpit and gunsight, openable canopy, deployable flaps and arrester hook and spinning compressor blades. It is, as you can imagine, quite a lot to pack into a model, even of this size. And how well it works, well, you'll be able to judge for yourselves. Why? Well I had some success doing some of this with a 1:24 Trumpeter Hurricane a couple of years back and fancied the challenge of mimicking the very different operation of a jet's controls - more on that later. But generally, I like the idea of a model being able to show some of the life of the real thing, so the model can sort of explain itself in other words. Some other boat and vehicle projects I've done in the same vein can be seen here if anyone is interested. Where to begin? I started with the wheels, imagining - wrongly - that these would be straightforward, especially after the nightmare complexity of the Hurricane. But, in reality F4s have, like a lot of naval aircraft, quite complex wheel geometry - not apparent when you look at them - to say nothing of the linkages between the landing leg itself and the secondary doors. So I had to make each of the main struts in brass, and adjustable in all axes, so I could firm up on the motion when I had worked out what it should be. You can just about make out the screw that will tighten the landing gear when the correct angle was worked out. Next discovery was that the gear struts themselves are almost certainly not quite in the right place on the model. No matter how I tried to work it, the wheels and doors could not function properly, this close to the fuselage. And indeed if you compare the wheel doors to available drawings, the secondary door (the little outboard gear door on each main wheel) is larger in real life than on the model. I concluded the wheels must be about 2 or 3mm too far inboard. I also wanted the wheels to turn freely so fitted bearings. You can more or less see that the strut itself looks like real chrome... and that is because it is. I found this remarkable - as in easy to use - kit from the US that allows you to chrome up (well polished) brass tube and I made a lot of use of it on this project. The oleo struts are supported by small springs in the cylinder. The slot in the oleo is to keep the wheel pointing in one direction as it slides up and down past a locating pin. The nose gear works the same way. You can see I had to replace the plastic 'scissors' as the orignals would break quickly when the gear moves up and down. Here you can see one of the main gear struts in the retracted position. The scissors are from the Eduard set and are useful for this kind of project, as long as the pieces are soldered rather than glued. You can just about make out what turned out to be the solution to the geometry issue. The main hinge is angled downward in the forward direction and slightly outward from the fuselage in the horizontal axis. This general arrangement was found by experiment - and confirmed by photographs. It is also worth mentioning that either the model wing section is too shallow or the gear too deep but, as supplied, they cannot possibly retract and I had to narrow the tires and wheels by about 1.5mm. Also, there is a sort of connecting piece across the well that is severely in error and prevents retraction, whatever the shape or thickness of the gear. That had to go. But because no one will see in the wheel well I have not replaced it with a corrected part. Hope this is of interest. Next up, engines and fans...
  6. Hi guys, I'm currently building a Tamiya 1/48 Skyraider USN early 1960s with a bucket seat (as opposed to the later Yankee extraction seat). I searched long and large but cannot find a reference for the colour of the seat belts/harness. Can any of you Skyraider experts help me in that matter? Thank you in advance, Cheers, Quang
  7. Hi guys, querying Italeri's call out for flat gull gray for the underside of the F104. I've got MM acrylic flat gull gray but it seems almost tan compared to some colour photos I've found which seem more like a light white/gray. I've got a few coats of tamiya's fine white primer down and even this seems closer to photos. Does anyone have any info as to what colour the underside should be? Maybe Italeri got it wrong... Thanks for any feed back. Cheers Bevan
  8. I was going through all the F-4 builds in the Vietnam GB and had a question. Which of the two versions of the SUU-23 gun pod did they use? Was it the full length one with the tear drop rear fairing or the "stubby" one? Or were both used but at different time frames? If so, any one know when the change came about? I have the AMS stubby gun pods but have the feeling they may be incorrect. Thanks Carl
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