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Allright, finnished a build yesterday First Timer Modelship wich also can be found here in NoN LSP Works section So now continue with the Maritime theme, Modelkit, well picture needs no presentation, got it second hand on eBay, part sealed in bags. Will use AM this time wich i do not do often at all, so this time go all in with AM, all insignias and markings will be painted, also some scratch. Yes....here it is and here goes. First things first reset the workplace. Nice boxart. Some reference books and all AM that ill use. And the build officially have started

80 Squadron (RAF) arrived in Egypt in May 1938. They were there to defend the Suez Canal, but it would seem the 'Arab Revolt', which was ongoing at the time, would take priority. Regardless, it certainly was a time of adventure in the desert, and one in which a very soft-spoken South African pilot would develop his leadership role within the Squadron. My plan is to portray Pat Pattle's aircraft when he took command of 'B' Flight some time around May of 1939. Here is a well known photo of 80 Squadron's Gladiators baking in the desert sun at their first base, RAF Ismailia, right next to the Suez Canal. ICM, a Ukrainian company, released their first Gladiator Mk.1 kit in 2019. It must have been a welcome treat for many model builders, who suddenly had time for their hobby, as the 'lockdowns' came into effect some months later! I was gifted the Mk.1 (with British pilots in tropical uniform) earlier this year, and have spent quite a lot of time down the rabbit-hole supposedly doing research for this project. Let's jump straight into the cockpit... For those of you who have done a Mk.1 before, you'll surely know this photo. I believe it is a Swedish Gladiator with, interestingly, German labeled instruments. More interesting is to see how much more stuff one might want to shove into the model's slightly sparse cockpit. So, I started to fiddle with the major things one can see at first glance when peering into the pretty spacious 'office'. Yes, I know, if I hadn't removed the kit's flat deck behind the pilot's headrest, quite a lot of this would not be seen. But then I wouldn't have as much fun building the model, so bear with me as I construct a bit of the internal fuselage! 😅 Most of the cockpit parts in the kit are just fine - for a weekend build - but I was in the mood for a bit more than that. Oh, in case you're wondering, it's a Quickboost seat. Nice belt details, I thought. The flap lever (on the left) and the base for the compass were two prominent features that have benefited from some additional attention. I must admit that not all the modifications are exactly like the real aircraft, but more of an attempt to create plausible things in the blank spaces. If you shine a torch through the canopy and catch a glimpse of something, it should look like it possibly belongs there. The radio is donated from Tamiya's A6M2 kit. Well, if you can have German instruments, then surely this is also allowed? 🤔 The actual radio location is about mid-fuselage behind the seat, but it is really tricky to position anything that needs horizontal cross members, since they have to plug into the other half of the fuselage when one closes it up. I have kept these to the bare minimum. Most of the reproduction structure was simply based on hand drawn plans inside the fuselage shells. I don't have any CAD skills anyway! Whilst rabbit-holing, I noticed that some previous builds had struggled with the horizontal stab 'pegs' breaking off, as well as tailwheels snapping at the glue-in point. Brass tubing seems to be the recommended solution, so thanks to all of you who learned this on our behalf. 🫡 I also spent quite a lot of time 'thinning' the rudder. You can't actually see that in this photo, at all, so I thought I'd just tell you. Although the elevators are nice and thin at their trailing edges, the rudder looks as if someone farted in their panty hose. You know. Ok, maybe a bit of an exaggeration. In order to get the tail feathers into a neat grouping, some careful planning is required. Particularly if you'd like to show some of the details through the maintenance access hole where the elevator cables attach to its control horn. This has caused me some difficulty, but I'll show you more of this in time to come. In the meantime, I'll let Biggles do the airworthiness inspection. The surface details on this kit are absolutely first class btw, which is why I'm going to all the effort on the inside. It may seem a bit silly, but since it doesn't have wheel wells for me to go to town on, what else was I going to do? Cheers! Sean

Keith Ferris painted this painting in 1979, a peaceful time before the arrival of internet 'experten' on all things German. I wonder what his sources were for the colours he chose? The upper surfaces do look like they have some blue in them. Christopher Shores put together the wonderful 'Fighter Aces' in 1975, that features a Michael Turner double spread of Voss fighting McCudden (and all the others) on the day he (Voss) lost his life. That colour scheme also looks pretty blue under the green stripes. A popular notion. Not everyone agrees nowadays, so during this build we'll look at some of the differing points of view. I'm sure most of you know the provenance of this kit, originally created by the wonderful men and women at Wingnut Wings, meant for release at about the time their factory doors unexpectedly closed. Lucky for us, Meng models eventually brought out the kit, since it is a little masterpiece of engineering. I am hoping to paint most of it, and only use decals for the stencilled bits. The Aviattic decals are tempting, but maybe a bit too blue for Voss's aircraft? I see they do produce a DR.1 sheet with 'aged varnish' that looks good, but let's see how it goes... Now that I have already given away my stance on the colours, here is some work on the internal framework and cockpit - using stencils to create textures and patterns instead of decals. This should be fun! 😅 Cheers, Sean

In the second year of the 'Great Depression', the Granville Brothers of Springfield Massachusetts turned their attention to an alternate form of aviation income - prize money. The 1931 National Air Races (in Cleveland, Ohio) featured 39 events with a total purse of $ 100 000. The Gee Bee Model Z was designed and built around a loaned Pratt & Whitney R-985 Wasp Junior engine, with the aim of winning the prestigious Thompson Trophy, along with its prize of $ 7500. The Gee Bee won, piloted by Lowell Bayles, who had secured his seat in the race by investing five hundred dollars in the Springfield Air Racing Association. Here he is, being handed the trophy by Mr Charles E. Thompson himself. Lowell Bayles went on to win another two races (the Shell Speed Dash and the Goodyear Trophy), which meant that the 'Zee' had won every race it took part in! The aircraft was built in about 5 weeks at a cost of less than five thousand dollars. The designer was Robert Hall, who did the test flying, as well as winning the General Tire and Rubber race and the 'Free for All' Race at Cleveland. Here he is. Tragically, on the 5th of December 1931, Lowell Bayles was killed in the aircraft while attempting to set a new landplane speed record. The little Gee Bee Z had only lasted for 105 days since her maiden flight on 22 August. A brief but bright flame. The Williams Bros. 1:32 scale Gee Bee Z that I built was the original 1979 boxing, with the bright yellow plastic. It is a lovely little kit that captures the shape of the aircraft well. I wanted some more detail in the cockpit, and a more accurate engine. The cockpit would be my problem, but the engine was beautifully rendered by Armory from the Ukraine. The mostly unusable 46 year old decals nearly undid the build though, as I elected to print some of my own, instead of sourcing replacement ones (which Williams Bros. actually did print years later). Despite numerous mishaps, here it is - minus a couple of decals, but good enough for my wife's desk. If you'd like to find out more, take a look at this: For those who don't enjoy the drama of the build, here's a brief visual summary... And the completed model.

Hi all, Firstly - apologies for not being about much recently - busy with D-Day 70 event/flying exped to Peenemunde/RIAT - followed by the death of one of my flying buddies in a motorcycle accident last Monday. So basically gone from some brilliant experiences - but no time for modelling, to bad week and really not in the mood. To try and break that and put mind on something more positive - I'm going to finally make a start on the new Spit. As one of the many things Tony did in his life was to take the controls of a two seat Spit this one's for you mate! OK - before I wade in - I won't pretend this is in any way definitive - it will include some mods I'll make following reference to photos/drawings/published dimensions/other kits - but my aim is to make a nice looking Spitfire - something I think easily achievable with this kit. What's more - it cost me the princely sum of £18 and I'd hate to waste it! For anyone that followed my He219 build I'd like to keep this thread on a similar - and positive - note throughout. Please chip in if you spot anything - and feel free to throw in discussion points. I really enjoyed building the UHU - and learned a huge amount in the process - but it was very much down to all the help I had from you lot!! EDIT - as I type this I've got two Spits overhead - quite auspicious! So - before I start... Kit fuselage: Top Hasegawa, middle new Revell, bottom Tamiya: Kit with Hasegawa Vb/Revell Hasegawa IIa fuselage (note difference in length from firewall (almost line-up perfectly - to front of cowl - don't ask which is right just yet): Hasegawa Vb/Revell Hasegawa IIa and Tamiya fuselage: Tamiya and Revell IIa fuselage: Comparison has already been made between the Tamiya kit and the new Revell one in Jen's excellent post - nothing further to add. Interesting to note that the nose is quite a lot longer than the Hasegawa Vb - more investigation needed - but otherwise it matches quite closely in profile - if not cross section. Back in a mo... Iain

A new post on a fairly long running topic by Peter @airscale. If you've been following his post (and who the hell in their right mind wouldn't?) You'll he's now produced the most exquisite Engine and prop build in 3d for his Do17Z project. He even put two test carts in there, one for the engine and another for the prop. We'll I was b*****ed by a French Horn when he asked if I'd build and paint the prototype for display at Telford 🫢 So here we go with my average photography skills. If you're going to Telford, you MUST go and see it in the flesh. The detailing in the printing is just gorgeous. Much better than my dodgy David Bailey impressions can do justice to. Peter sent me the bits cleaned up with his ultrasonic knife (sounds very nasty) and ready primed so the carts were printed as one piece. I'm imagining this as an older engine going into the workshop for an overhaul and a new prp fitting and balancing. The workshop's been busy and the carts have seen some hammer! Just a standard job of silver, chipping fluid (or if you're a devout Yorkshireman, hairspray) and chip away. The little boxes on the engine cart I smartened up with some labels and a few small gauges from the decal box. The prop stand was just beaten up a bit If you look at Peter's original renderings, you'll see how it all goes together but these are the side flaps of the engine cowlings which sit open, gull wing fashion on the finished piece. Again, old engine so I've layered aluminium base metal, overpainted with RLM02 and well worn off. Then oil from leaks etc. Some sooty stains will be going on last. Same with the engine casing which will hold the block and oil cooler Early days with the engine itself. Normally on a radial, I paint it steel and then flood with wash to get the fins showing. This time because of the makeup and detail of the piece, I went the other way. paint black then drybrush the silver over. The detail is so fine it's possible. The fuel lines are the pain in the arse to hand paint yellow, oil lines brown. It's had a sheen of engine oil but is only test fitted together at the minute. The rear in particular needs more work and I'm struggling for good reference pics for whats black, silver etc. so if anyone can help PLEEEZE do. More to come tomorrow hopefully. Peter need it for telford so I'd better get cracking😰

I'm an unapologetic Hasegawa 'fan boy' and this is a great kit even by their own high standard. Pretty much effortless build, only additions were the Quickboost resin gun barrels & Eduard etch cockpit set , the plastic is what comes from the box. Painted with Tamiya & Mr Color lacquers (there's any number of greens in this, you'd have to see it 'in person' to get the full effect - and no I'm not buying any plane tickets !). The paint-fading, aside from some subtle pre & post-shading is all W&N oils, some applied raw and blended, some blended with odourless thinner. Streaks stains and exhaust plumes, again all with oil paints. Chipping is Vallejo Dark Aluminum applied by sponge with each panel carefully masked to try and imply variations in wear on different ones (some not chipped at all, some heavy etc.) Is it perfect, no of-course it isn't but it's unlikely to go near any competitions, and looks great in the cabinet. As ever C C & Q's welcomed. [img]https://i.imgur.com/9OJvviS.jpg[/img] Cheers from a bright & breezy NZ

So here we have the final pics of my mammoth HK models 1:32 Lancaster Mk. B.I Special build. The finished aircraft looks spectacular from a sheer size perspective, as you can see from the picture with the 1' rule for scale. The inaccuracies for a kit costing over £300 are well documented and the fixes I've employed are far too numerous to list fully here. But a few have been: Complete rebuild of pilot's plinth and replacement of seat Removal of erroneous dinghy hatch on port wing Lengthening of Navigators table to match specs Addition of accurate instrumentation for a BI not the Mk. X Fit a B.I Flight Engineer's seat as opposed to a Mk. X Fit swivel navigator's seat as opposed to fixed one supplied Install "washing line" canvas sunscreens in canopy Remove erroneous wooden slatting from upkeep mine Built and fit hydraulic submarine motor to spin up mine. Move trailing radio aerial from starboard to port side. I've tried to take a few pics of the iconic shots from 1943 prior to the mission and I've included these as a bit of fun. It's now on its way to a new owner, which is just as well as, with a 1m wingspan, the wife would kill me if I said I was keeping it. Thanks to: Peter at Airscale for his always immaculate cockpit upgrades Top Notch for the insignia masks Thanks for looking as ever. For those interested, the link to the build is HERE

LUBLIN R.XIII D 1:32 LUKGRAPH It was supposed to be from FLY both "Tunnan" but life has verified the plans as always. As a tribute to the fallen crew there is Lublin R.XIII D in 1:32 from LUKGRAPH. The model will be built in the colours of the 1st Platoon 26 EO (observation squadron) of the 2nd Air Regiment Cracow. The probable designation of the aeroplane is the letter E on the fuselage, the military number of the aeroplane is 56-126 and the under wing number is 16 K. The crew consisted of Lt. obs. Leon Wrzeszcz and Staff Sergeant Pilot Adam Baran. On 1.09.1039 the aircraft was shot down by ground fire and crashed in the village of Piasek near Strzebinia / Lubliniec, the crew died. The deadline for making the model is very short, because I want to make it in time for the unveiling of the newly-made memorial at the site of the plane crash. So much for the story, and now for the model; in the box we have everything we need to build it. From the extras there is an instrument panel available for it in the company YAHU MODELS YMA3231, which I will use in the model. Thanks to the companies LUKGRAPH and YAHU MODELS for their help. ps. There will be a little surprise in the next post.

I have to brag because I still have a brand new 1:32 scale SAAB J 29 B "Tunnan" from FLY 32023. FLY has released "Tunnan" in B and F versions and I managed to get both of them and both will be shown here. For this model FLY has also released masks to paint cabins (artm32011) and wheels (artm32014) which I also have. This is a quick in-box of the kit. I will do rest of in-boox pictures as soon as I have some time.

I will be picking up the kit box in an hour. Hopefully all parts will still be intact when I get it. I expect to be spending a fair amount of time looking over the parts and doing my best to smoothen them out in various ways, given the 3d-printed nature of this resin build with obviously uneven surfaces here and there. It was tempting to maybe try use metal foil on the model parts, but I sort of don't think I can make the model smooth enough, but I have yet to look at the parts myself, only having other people's photos on this subject matter. Hopefully I can get most the parts smooth enought to get to airbrush on metallic colors. I wrote "slow build" in the title, as I have some other builds going on as well, but I typically start working on new kits as I get them to evaluate them for myself and just try get things going. Paint scheme for this build (ideally): metalic paint (Vallejo metalic range of paints) Other remarks: I finally fixed my leaking air compressor, and so it turns out I had just a faulty air hose all along for the last few years occasionally using the compressor. The crack in the nice looking braided hose grew larger and larger by time, I couldn't find the source of the leak and it was all mysterious to me. How could the nice looking braided air hose fail me? Obviosuly the rubber part inside started to crack at some point, I had no idea. I found the leak by adding soap bubbles/soapy water around the compressor. Also in other news, I also finally think I figured out how to best airbrush on Vallejo primer paint. I typically dilute the Vallejo primer with thinner (for no good reason), however I always had issue with the paint drying inside my airbrush, presumably because having added thinner. Vallejo 'flow enhancer' acts as a retarder, and I should rely on a little of that instead of thinner I think, Also, in other news, for the first time I fully cleaned my airbrush, including bits of paint stuck in the needle canal, possibly contributing to the airbrush acting up from time to time, with reduced paint flow as if something was blocking the flow somewhere around the nozzle (unsure).

…FLY 1/32 SAAB J29 TUNNAN It’s one of the most anticipated kits for many modellers, I for one. But since its release last February, I’ve never heard anything about it except for an introductory post from @Kriss. No review, no build-up, no nothing on the internet. Does anybody know ? Cheers, Quang

Hi, Gladiator from ICM is a very enjoyable adventure. Fast to bulid, with nice engine. ICM was in road to top of plastic manufacturers, unfortunately because of Russian aggresion they halted production. I added Aires seat with seatbelts, and PE. I have strenghten horizontal stabilizers and skids with needle/paperclip.

I have to brag because I have still new from FLY 32022 - SAAB J 29 F "Tunnan" in 1:32 scale. FLY has released "Tunnan" in B and F versions and I managed to get both of them and both will be shown here. For this model FLY has also released masks to paint cabins (artm32011) and wheels (artm32014) which I also have. This is a quick in-box of the kit. I will do rest of in-boox pictures as soon as I have some time.

First, a quote from Flying Fever by AVM S F Vincent (Jarrolds, 1972), which is an excellent read, although alas long out of print. "[The date is early 1917. Major Robert] Smith-Barry, my previous CO in No 60 Squadron, had left almost in disgrace, because he had complained so much and so frequently about the abysmal state of training of the pilots sent out [to France] to fight. Eventually the War Office took note and said, in effect, 'If you think you can do any better, come home and do so.' He was given the training squadrons at Gosport which were formed experimentally into the School of Special Flying ...". History records that Smith-Barry eventually developed a system of flying training which is still in use world-wide today. The SSF had a number of aeroplanes on its strength, including some Sopwith Pups. One of these was B2192, and markings for this machine are in the "Gnome" boxing of the WNW Pup. As I missed out on the original issues of the Pup, I was pleased to be able to add this to my collection. The scheme chose itself, not least because in the mid-1980s I worked in an office block built on part of the old Gosport airfield; the hangars were very visible from one side of the building. I don't often do WIPs because I forget to take photos as I go along, but I hope to do better with this. So here we go, with a boxtop shot. And the rather striking scheme I'll be doing: CDL underneath, white on top, all covered with black stripes. Whilst WNW provide decals for the fuselage stripes, I'll be attempting to paint them, along with the wing roundels. I'd do the fuselage roundels as well, but my circle cutter does not allow a small enough radius of cut. Wish me luck!! That's the first Pup: the second, to go with it, is in the arms of "Henry"; the plan is to put him on the base with the completed model. I think the dog is just about small enough to qualify as a pup. I've already opened the box and completely ruined the value of the kit by removing the wings and fuselage halves from the sprue, so here we go, watch this space.

On 1 September is 80 Anniversary of WWII start - Germany invaded Poland. My plane is E-3 from that period ,with character from Max und Moritz fairytale on engine cover. I added: - Yahu IP - Resin seat from Quickboost, - Profipack etch - resin exhausts - some other corrections. Now i'm waiting for IBG PZL P.11C to have both sides main fighter planes.

Coming sometime in the future to a magazine (hence only one photo - sorry, no more or I'll be in trouble with the Editor), here's my rendition of the Italeri two-seat Starfighter. The subject was an aircraft of 31 (Tiger) Sqn, Belgian AF, 1983. The tip tanks were used for the 1983 NATO Tiger meet, just before Belgium finally retired the F-104. Decals by DACO, intake covers & chocks by Video Aviation, pitot by Master, and RBF tags by HGW. Thanks for looking.

Started on the 9th of December... Every year I try to do a 'clear the bench' build over Christmas, this year it was this one: Not sure why folks seem to shy-away from the Trumpy 109E kits almost all the completed ones that I have seen here are from the Eduard and Dragon kits. Ahh well... I thoroughly enjoyed every minute of this one. Perfect fit everywhere, lots of detail, excellent etch, decals and phenomenal clear parts. (not so excellent rubber tyres tho'). For a change I broke-out my enamels for the 74/75/76/04 colours, all of which I mixed using my preferred Mk.I eyeball method. Highly recommend this to anyone contemplating a 1:32 build and perhaps a wee bit put-off by the excessive parts-count and cost of some of the 'uber kits' around just now - I got this off a well-known on-line auction site from a Chinese based seller for just £16.50 !!!!! (that's as good as giving it away) even down here to NZ the postage was just ten-quid. So here t'is all done only addition is the kit specific Eduard Zoom set which includes the harness too; And I have to admit that I'm very pleased with it. Please feel free to hurl any criticism, ask any questions or make any comment at all. Thanks for taking the time to look and Happy 2019 to all here. Ian.

New Chaika from ICM, nice kit, fast to build. I made conversion to early type - with spinner similar to I-16 or I-15 Bis. I think that it is prettier than late - but it is only my opinion. It looks like a cartoon plane, from Mickey Mouse comic book . List of additions and modifications: - new spinner - new exhaust tube on fuselage, smaller exhausts on engine cover made from solder - some cables in cockpit and engine - rigging from fishing line - hollowed air inlet - tubes from syringe needle pushed into gun outlets on engine covers - masks used for red 8 number WIP: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=75355&hl= Boys from same family

Special Hobby Fiat in finnish markings. This paintwork required some work on tail. Unfortunately higher vertical fin isn't supplied in the box so i needed to scratch it. I made some corrections and adjustments to match finnish planes: - pilot seat is moved backwards - guns have metal tubes made from syringe needle - shelf between IP top and bottom is added I used these additions: - Yahu IP - Techmod hakaristi decals - Montex masks (plane number) Surface is riveted and wheels are weighted. I can really recommend this kit to everyone who likes Italian planes - it's simple, and construction goes without any big problems. Photos from the bench:

Good afternoon, colleagues! I have one question. Now I'm working on the Hawker Tempest Mk.V, Special Hobby Now the model looks like this The coloring option will be "out of the box" - Hawker Tempest Mk.V, JN862/JF-Z, No.3 Sqn. RAF, August 1944. And I can not understand what guns were in this instance - an early sample with fairings, or later? Such as this aircraft http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=64219 Or such as this? http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=72794

Hi, Dora is finished, not as pleasant kit as I expected, but still decent piece of plastic. Side inscription means: "Sell my clothes I'm going to heaven!". List of modifications: - pilot seat - added seatbelts and Yahu IP - modified gunsight - Quickboost exhausts - Eduard Bronze legs from Revell F-8 - gun barrels / pitot tube / bottom antenna from syringe needles - pilot motto - shortened tail wheel - wings crosses from Montex Masks WIP: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=74576

First one in 2018. Trumpeters F6F is like a Garfield - too many lasagnas caused thickness . To hide it i opened canopy. I used: - Montex masks for stars - Eduard Interior - Techmod decals for cat mouth - added cables and other small things. My machine:

"How a husband fades when his wife appears." Curt Goetz Hello friends, she means well to me - and I got the Revell Bristol Beaufighter Mk. IF from Revell by my beloved honey as a unexpected present. Prioritseing everything new... So I decided without hesitation to surf through the www and I really found a nice colour scheme reducing the giant size of the kit a bit I hope: its copied from the backsite of a 1/144 kit: What are your tips, hints and tricks for her? I've never dealt with the "doubleB" I played a bit with MSpaint - so it possible to do something like this to the kit? Updating to Mk V with a quadrogun turret - but keeping the engines rotray? - they look so nice Or giving the viewer a bigger opening looking into the kit? Or can I add a torpedo and a gunner opening to the Mk.IF, too? To the camouflage scheme: I found this Picture of a Czech Lib LV343 at Beaulieu in July-43 with this nice "waves" between grey/green and white - is this allowed to add to a B²? I saw a Wellington Mk.VIII in later Coastal Command colours, showing the ASV Mk.II radar antennas on the side and top of the rear fuselage. And I like this - but have there been some addid into a B² ?? This because I am not shure if I want to built a "Torpedo Attacker" or some "Electronic Warefare" - both are so intresting - the colouring of the tin-fish on the one hand and the intesting look of the antannas.

Hello folks Been a long time since I asked for folks ideas here, but because I'm planning-on building the Tamiya 1:32 Mustang (and the implied ‘cost' of this kit), I thought it may be a good idea to get some thoughts before I start hacking away at it. I'm going to build Bill Dunhams' ‘Mrs. Bonnie' as it was right at the end of the war in summer 1945. The aircraft is a P-51K-10 it's quite well known as it was featured in some publicity photos in August or September. As you can see, despite it being a Dallas-built ‘K' it has the cuffed Hamilton props and spinner – the blade profile and decals give-it-away – also the whole of the spinner is painted red/yellow/blue & black (front to rear). This is fine as the kit I'm using is the initial Tamiya release, 60322 (which also has the ‘Dallas' canopy in the box too). Now here's the part where I need your insight & thoughts – Tamiya in their paint & decal instructions show ‘Mrs Bonnie' with the ‘correct' Aeroproducts spinner & blades but also would have you paint the spinner back-plate NMF, the colours being the same but compressed. Has anyone got a photo that confirms the Tamiya instructions – just being curious, I'm one of those folks who likes to have as much info as possible… Thanks in advance folks, over to you. Ian. ps Special thanks to Ben (PCBEN80) for supplying the decals all the way from the USA to 'Middle Earth', really appreciate it, matey !!