Martin Cwiertnia

Hi Ian. Yes it is safe to put enamel wash over Microscale cote cause this laqueer is acrylic based and it gives very strong finish. You can aply after almost everything: enamel based washes, artistic oil washes, filters and stuff like that. Nice work on Zero mate I'm collecting money for this one cause it's very expensive in my country. Regards, Martin.

Radu Your work is simply astonishing Great Job and I really like to watch what You're doing. Regards, Martin.

Oooo!!! You've made a model of Dora which was captured by Russians nearby my hometown. Elbing (old German name of my town) is located 28 km from Marienburg (old German name of Malbork City). Dora and 205 are very very nice Regards, Martin.

Hi Chris, You can also try to do sun fading effect by lightening basic colours with a little and I mean little drop of Yellow to the basic colours. Why yellow, cause You'll achieve lightening of colours but You'll also keep the warm of the basic tones. With white, green and bronze will be more grayish and will lose theirs natural warm. Regards, Martin.

I hope Dragon will get his Ta 152 in 1:48 and convert it to 1:32 ... please, please ... Mr. Rutman's Ta is to difficult for me. Regards, Martin.

So I guess taht this one You built it's a Hasegava Spifire boxed by Revell. Cause only Spit in 1:32 which has recessed panel lines on wings and rised panel lines on fuselage it's the old/new Hasegawa. Anyway that's wierd story cause the added recessed wings later and I don't know why they didn't do the same thing with fuselage. Once again very nice Spitfire Regards, Martin.

Thanks Dave, Is this the kit with rivets and recessed panel lines, sold also as a Seafire ?

Beautifull they look together very nice Tell me friend what kind of kit You used for Spitfire ? Regards, Martin.

Chris, where are the wings

Hello, I remeber that Brett Green inserted piece of sprue under the cockpit to remowe this gap between fuselage and wings, hope this helps. Keep up the good work. Regards, Martin.

Great work Chris. This metod with darken laquer is very impressive. Chris have You ever tried to put filters, which are common in military vechicles subjects and shading wit the use of artist oils thinned with the white spirit ? I found this technique very useful, and it adds new horizons to aircraft weathering process. Looking forward updates of Your amazing work. I really like Dora You've made Regards, Martin.

Not so long ago we had a discusion about this subject with a friend of mine who is Fw 190 freak We were talking about flaps, and we get to the point that on photos from this period of this particular aircraft we cannot see construction typical for the wooden flaps in oposite to the photos of D-13 version where it's clearly visible that the flaps are wooden. I'm doing my late series W.Nr. 500618 and I choose to do standard metal flaps. I don't have my JaPo right now, but I barely remeber that there was something about flaps in section where the production batches were reserched. Regards, Martin. I would rather ask people from JaPo Publications about this.

Very nice I have a question Ron, Did You polished MM metalizer after it dried ??? I'm absolutely shocked that You didn't use black gloss paint for priming the metalizer.

Maybe the better way to make rivets is to use 'Rosie The Riveter' of Mr. Dousek from Czech Republic :?: I can't imagine doing rivets on Fw 190 with the use of MDC tool ... it's madness for me. Regards, Martin.

Maybe because of the fact that Trumpy 262 is generally Tamiya 262 in 1:48 converted to 1:32 scale. I Think that Doras and Bf 109 from Hase are good and acurate. You don't have to buy updates and corrections for this kits, most of things You can do by Yourself using wires, styrene profiles and of course good references. Although it's my opinion. Regards.