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Thunnus

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  1. Thunnus
    Alfonso... thanks for the clarification about the flare pistol! About the "rudder troughs"... could it be in reference to the "plates" on top of the foot supports? I noticed that the F4U-1a kit has plates that are glued on top of the foot supports while the Birdcage kit does not. My F4U-1a Birdcage F4U-1 Build
  2. Thunnus
    Thanks Brian! Yes, the fabric components were crumpled with my fingers before assembly per the instructions. I'll be gluing the harnesses in and applying a wash next.
  3. Thunnus
    I don't know any of that stuff is, LOL. Except the cockpit flare pistol and I'm sad to leave that out because I was looking forward to painting it. Maybe I'll leave it as a possible retro-fit? The cockpit on this thing is nowhere near completion. I'm stalled out on the central cockpit assembly... keep pondering "glue then paint" or "paint then glue". It'll be a slow, methodical combination of both approaches as I'm too lazy to be systematic about it. I've got other things on my plate too so I can't devote 100% of my mental capacity to the task at hand. A few hours at the bench and I pushed myself to assemble the HGW seatbelts. I pity ya'll who are brave enough to tackle these intricate sets in the smaller 1/48 scale... no thank you! These weren't too difficult but still took about three hours of work to get them together. I've read that giving them a wash will bring out some stitching detail so I think I'll give that a try after I attach them to the seat and give them a clear coat.
  4. Thunnus
    Hey Gaz! I recently bought a portable photo booth. It''s essentially a box with reflective interior walls and strips of LED lighting along the top. Sheets of different colored plastic are supplied as seamless backgrounds. They come in different sizes. Mine is 60cm (24") and cost about $60 USD from Amazon. It's a not a perfect solution but it gives me consistent lighting and clean backgrounds. The 60 cm size is probably too small for most 1/32 aircraft models but works very well for parts and smaller sub-assemblies, which is the main reason I bought it. Otherwise, all of my in-progress pics are shot under a couple of 75watt (800 lumens) desk lamps. Camera is a Canon S100 point-n-shoot.
  5. Thunnus
    This one is BuNo 17740 so that means that the bombing window was most likely present on this one?
  6. Thunnus
    I'm not good at figure painting so I didn't want to spend extra money on resin. I'll use the kit figure to practice on. And I actually like this pose better than the one on the Boyington figure. I don't have the Dana Book unfortunately. Maybe somebody else here at LSP has the book and can help me out?
  7. Thunnus
    Speaking of that panel... is it correct to assume that the glass panel under the cockpit is not clear but painted over on the F4U-1a?
  8. Thunnus
    So it IS a relief tube??? And made of rubber? I'll paint it black then and direct the tubing under the seat. Thanks so much for the information guys... learn something new every day! Busy weekend for me so I didn't get much bench time. I glued together the standing pilot figure to see how he looks. The molding is a noticeable notch below resin standards but the pose is pretty good. I'm going to try and give figure painting another go, just for practice. My order of AK Real Colors (AIR) came in this week and picked them up at the LHS today. I got a whole set of Late Luftwaffe colors and also the three colors for the Corsair. I taped off the engine nacelle mule from my 262 build and shot half of it with the AK colors. I put a pastel wash just to give it a layer of weathering. Here's the other side that was previously sprayed with the Mr Hobby Aqueous. The most obvious difference is the Intermediate Blue. When checking the bottles, I noticed that the Intermediate Blue that I had used was not H-56 Intermediate Blue but Mr Hobby Acrysion N-56 Intermediate Blue. I actually have an older bottle of H-56, which looks very similar to the AK but it was hidden in the back of my shelf. Acrysion N-56 is not a good match for Intermediate Blue in my eyes and I'll be going with the AK set of colors. The three AK colors went on VERY smooth, thinned 3:1 with 91% iso alcohol. This should simplify painting since I've got the three base colors without having to custom mix.
  9. Thunnus
    The nightfighter looks great Alan! This is the Trumpeter kit, I assume? Looking forward to seeing the U4!
  10. Thunnus
    Thank you Scott and Welcome Alfonso! It's always great to have subject matter experts visit my builds and I appreciate the input, especially since Allied aircraft are not my forte. I love the mismatches caused by replacement parts and I think a Blue Grey port wing will make a neat visual statement. My guess is that Sea Blue was not applied on the top of the port wing based on the photos... maybe the rest of the Sea Blue had faded to the extent that it wasn't necessary? Exterior issues aside, the work on the inner Corsair creeps along. Here's the seat. It's made up of four parts including a etched metal part. The rear bulkhead, which will ultimately hold up the seat was my next painting assignment. Based on Scott's comments, I wanted to account for cockpit components painted in a Dark Green due to more than one contractor supplying the cockpit sub-assemblies. Since no specifics were given on WHAT might be Dark Green, I thought about doing the seat but I decided to do the seat mounting frame and panel behind it. The seat was chipped using the MIG Scratches Effect fluid and given a dirty wash. The base metal finish was kept dark to help tone down the shine of the chipping effect. Also painted at this time was the intermediate bulkhead that houses the foot pedal controls. Chipping was done on the pedals and also the plate beneath the pedals. The components have not been glued together yet and I was only able to get a single shot before the assembly kept coming apart in my light box. I've given the instrument panel some light chipping along the edges to better match the worn surroundings. And here is the control stick painted up. Not sure what that cone thing is...almost could double for a pee-pee relief container but it is on the wrong side. I added a wire to the end of it. The central cockpit station between these bulkheads is still to come.
  11. Thunnus
    Interesting comments about 740's wing. A replacement wing makes sense given the lack of white bars on the bottom port wing star. Since many of the birdcage Corsairs were painted in the two-tone scheme, do you think it is possible/probable that the port wing star may have been Non-Specular Blue Grey? Photos of 740 aren't conclusive but it appears that it might be a possibility. Feel free to follow and copy! No shame in using other builders' techniques... great way to learn, IMO! Thanks! The Vector resin IS very nice but the final judgement comes when we mate the resin cowling onto the engine/fuselage.
  12. Thunnus
    Yes! Revell had fantastic box art for their 1/32 aircraft kits in that time period.
  13. Thunnus
    Thank you Alan and Scott! I'm not going to do too much super-detailing. Doing the throttle ala Wolf Buddee was a bit of a one-off for me so I will not be pursuing that level of detail in most areas. For example, I'll probably just go with the kit screens for the oil coolers but will add some wiring to the landing gear bays. Interesting note about the DDG... gives me an opportunity to introduce some color variation into the cockpit.
  14. Thunnus
    A trip down memory lane.. I remember this kit from my childhood. I remember the blue color of the plastic.
  15. Thunnus

    me 109 k4

    Thunnus replied to hayaman's topic in LSP Discussion

    I have the Hasegawa 1/32 K-4 kit in my stash and am planning a future build. I haven't looked at it closely but I'm guessing the open tail wheel doors are similar to the 1/48 Hasegawa K-4 kit, which I have built. On that kit, I removed the doors and used a piece of sprue to close the area off.
  16. Thunnus
    Very cool! It looks like a very nicely molded kit... may have to pick one up!
  17. Thunnus
    Thanks Scott! I'll keep tabs on those sites to see if I can incorporate the metal exhausts on this build. I'm still feeling out this kit and don't really have a clear path forward, especially when it comes to the cockpit. It's a multi-step process with many, many small parts. Most of it is contained in the central cockpit assembly but there is also stuff that needs to be hung on the fuselage walls. It's hard to figure out what to paint, when to paint it and in what order. I have to account for any added details (which won't be too many) and the Barracuda data stencils. There are just so many of them and I don't want to put in myself in a position where I can't apply the decals properly. I selected the forward cockpit bulkhead to test my cockpit painting procedure. I'm going to lay down the base color, Interior Green, on bare plastic (no black base), highlight raised structure using a lightened Interior Green and pick out any details with a fine brush. I'll then give it a dark pastel wash. Since the bulkhead will be largely hidden and comprised of only two parts with no stenciling data, I thought it was a good place to start. I'll have to figure out weathering on the more accessible parts of the cockpit like the seat, foot pedals, etc.
  18. Thunnus
    I can't complain! Although I do prefer living here on the "mainland" now. I'ts good to know that I'll always have a place to stay and makes for a nice, convenient vacation, especially since the airfares have gone down a bit now that Southwest is providing service to Hawaii. Weather wasn't the greatest while I was there... partly cloudy with some rain and lots of wind.
  19. Thunnus
    Thanks for the information, Scott! I'd definitely be interested in what Rexx cooks up for the Corsair as my manual hollowing attempts could be improved upon. I found their Facebook page but it is in Russian. Where is the best place to get a hold of them and to (eventually) purchase their products? Directly?
  20. Thunnus
    I was on Oahu, Brian. Grew up there and so I was visiting my parents and sister, who live there now. Just a short trip to celebrate my dad's 88th birthday.
  21. Thunnus
    Very nice work! The Barracuda exhausts should be bigger than the kit exhausts, assuming that the Revell G-10 kit has the same exhausts as the G-6 kit.
  22. Thunnus
    That WAS weird. But strangely effective. I would've never thought of doing it this way but the spacing of your mottling looks great.
  23. Thunnus
    I just got back from a short vacation to Hawaii! Got back on Saturday and managed to do a little work on the Corsair on Sunday. Decided to work on the Vector resin cowling parts. The resin comes with small bulkheads for the nose cowling. So you have to remove the molded bulkheads first. The major surgery was performed using my Tamiya snips like a pair of scissors. I then used a dremel to grind down the raised plastic. The interior of the cowling was then sanded down with sandpaper and sanding sponges. The resin bulkhead pieces were sawed off their casting bases. I used CA glue for attachment. I'm not sure if this will be visible or noticeable once the engine inside the cowling but the additional detail is nice. I moved on to the resin cowl flaps and decided to glue in the little actuator parts. Stretched sprue was used for the cable that is strung along the actuators. I think this detail will be very noticeable and is a nice addition compared to the plain flaps that come with the kit. That's all for now! Thanks for checking in!
  24. Thunnus
    Thanks guys! I appreciate the positive comments! I just got back from a trip to Hawaii so I'll get back on my Corsair build soon!
  25. Thunnus
    Thank you so much Andy! Sometimes a detour brings you to the right destination. I'm glad that the paint scheme resolved itself the way it did. I got results that I hadn't intended when I started and learned another technique to replicate wear and tear.
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