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Posts posted by Juggernut

  1. This one seems to have made the contest rounds all around the area.  This is a photo I took of it at the IPMS Nationals in 2021...I don't think it won anything there; did it here?  If it didn't place in this contest, I think the builder, who seems to have done a very good job with it, needs to move on and create something else and put this one in the case and leave it there.




    Here it is again at last years OrangeCon:




    Normally I wouldn't know one contest entrant from another year to year but this one stands out.

  2. I've finished another project that I'd been working on a for a few weeks.  This time it's Hasegawa's 1/48 Typhoon Ib with the Teardrop Canopy.  There's no 1/32 injected kit of this version of the Typhoon so I had to scale down.  Since I've always wanted to do the "Sharky" aircraft, I needed to get some aftermarket items to enable me to do it accurately.  I purchased (but only used parts of it) the Barracudacast Typhoon cockpit set for the bubble canopy, the Barracudacast radiator intakes and exhausts (I used the "cuckoo door" version), Barracudacast resin main and anti-shimmy tailwheel (the kit does not come with the anti-shimmy tailwheel so prevalent on later Typhoons), Ultracast 4-blade prop, Ultracast tail wheel well, and lastly, the Ultracast Tempest tailplanes.  With these in hand, I set out to find the decals for "Sharky".  I found none at anything but highwayman prices.  I discovered that Montex makes a maxi-mask set for this aircraft so I ordered and used it.  This was my first attempt at masking markings; I don't think I did too bad but it was a learning experience.  I have a Silouette Cameo 4 and ended up making new roundel masks since I buggered up the Montex ones. 


    I used the Barracudacast seat, some of the black boxes, the  gunsight, and the rudder pedals from the cockpit set.  I could not, for the life of me, get the entire cockpit to fit in any kind of decent manner so I created a Hasegawa-Barracudacast hybrid.  I think it came out ok for what you can see of it.  The Ultracast Tempest tailplanes are "slip over" parts meaning they slip over the plastic tailplane roots.  There was some deformity on the separate elevators but I fixed that with some sheet styrene and CA glue.


    As for modifications to the basic kit, I did the following: 

    • Thinned the back edges of the radiator housing/fuselage as well as the flapper edges.
    • I drilled a hole in the intake trunking and ran a 0.020-inch styrene rod from there to a chunk of half-round styrene rod I glued to the inside of the door.
    • I drilled out the navigation light lenses (boy that was a task-and-a-half) to better represent what these lights actually look like.
    • I drilled a hole for the obligatory whip antenna on the upper fuselage, behind the canopy
    • Rescribed all lost detail (including the oversized removable panel fasteners.
    • Eliminated both wing leading edge landing lights.  I read that rocket firing Typhoons usually had this done to them so the rocket exhaust jet wouldn't break the perspex and create a big issue.
    • Drilled out the teeney-weeney 20mm cannon muzzles.
    • Removed the clumsy canopy rail that Hasegawa provides and replaced it with a strip of styrene
    • Redesigned the clear light behind the pilot's armor plated headrest to better resemble the actual item. (I then proceeded to launch the Hasegawa clear bulb part into oblivion when holding it for installation with a pair of  tweezers...I made a replacement but it's not as good.)
    • Drilled out two light fixtures just forward of the inboard landing gear doors.  I've read that later Typhoons had lights here (red-left, green-right) so I created them with Molotow chrome, Gunze Sanyo aqueous clear green and clear red with 5-minute epoxy lens.

    I painted the kit using old Floquil enamel paints for the Medium Sea Grey, Ocean Grey, and Dark Green.  I scanned the instructions, resized them and cut out paper masks for the camouflage pattern. The roundels are a mix of MRP, Xtra enamel blue and Tamiya White (as are the shark teeth).  The mask for the black edging around the mouth did not do well so I ended up painting it by hand.  The prop is Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500  black.  It needed no further paint to make it look the part.  The squadron codes are again Floquil enamel RAF Sky but the serial number decal was too small to paint (at least for me) so I created a decal for the serial numbers.  It looks good and the font is correct I believe.

    That about sums it up...  Now on to the photographs.  It's not a perfect build but I'm happy with it even though the pictures seem to always locate the minutest of errors and blow them up so they are unmissable...Oh well, I'm glad the contest judges don't have this ability.































  3. Oh yeah, in 1/32, a 7-10mm gap is only 0.009 inches - 0.012 inches (for those of us using English units); three to four sheets of writing paper thickness (@ 0.003 inches per sheet). I've seen panel lines on kits that were just as big (and some bigger!).  I'll also add that this is information I never knew so thanks Radu, most appreciated.

  4. 10 hours ago, John1 said:

    Here's one of my favorites.    Mainly because I built her a few years back.   Labeled a G-6 but later info I found said she was actually a -14.

    http://www.cptfarrels.com/blog/Bf109G-6_TT_Yellow 5_1200.jpg


    A few more profiles of G-14's here:

    The Profile Paintshop: Bf109G-14


    Thanks for the link.  I saw the first three profiles there but haven't really delved into the site just yet. 



    ...and a photo of the subject is a good start remembering that you should never trust a profile without a photo (or two).


    Thanks for the 190 discussion information, i agree it would apply to late war 109's as well.  I'm aware that photos are better references than profiles but since I'm creating a ficticious "representative" aircraft, there likely won't be a photograph to refer to.  I'm looking for more of a set of general possibilities than a specific color scheme.  The model will be a blank canvas for me to create on.  The profile above of Yellow 5 is a prime example of what I'm looking for.  It has a lot of variation in the paint showing it was most likely remanufactured or assembled from parts provided by the well known but highly diversified construction network during 1944/1945.


    Having said all that, if in the near future, there are a series of decal sheets that become available and one strikes my fancy, I may alter my plans accordingly but for now, I am going to stick with a "possible" aircraft rather than trying to recreate a specific aircraft. It frees me up from being bound to a given profile or color scheme. 

  5. 12 minutes ago, D.B. Andrus said:

    How about painting the kit with the same unit markings, but with a different tactical number. You can then do what you want with the camouflage without contradiction.





    That's sort of what I was thinking but the only issue I face is whether said camouflage scheme would be similar for a different aircraft or not.  I just don't have enough references to definitively state what's possible and what's not.  Having said that and knowing the haphazard times in Germany toward the end, I think almost anything is possible.  I'm probably ovethinking the issue but that's one of my more aggravating faults I just can't get past.

  6. 10 minutes ago, Citadelgrad said:

    Well, i clicked on a thread asking about ZM vs Revell P 51s, neither of which was a particular danger to my wallet, then i learned what i suspected, that Tamiya in this particular flavor is amazing, as i have been hearing, then that i could have one for $106 delivered.  How is a guy supposed to avoid threads like this?

    i got one.   


    Hahahahahha--- Their evil plan is working!  Tamiya secretly started this thread just for that reason. :wicked::lol:

  7. 6 minutes ago, Mark P said:

    Did you look at Eagle Editions? They have G-14 markings.


    Mark Proulx


    Yes, I did and EagleCals is usually my "go-to" source for Luftwaffe markings.  I was going to select the G-14 sheet until one of the guys doing a build here is doing the exact same set of markings I wanted to do.  I'm a little "funny" in that if someone's doing an aircraft with the same set of markings as I would do, I shift to another set of markings so not to create a "comparison" build with someone else.  With my choice of markings already being used and since I've gotten into masks, I got the wild hair to do a "representative" aircraft rather than a specific aircraft.  That's why I posed the question above fully knowing that it could be a mine-field of opinions and conjecture.  Hopefully, it won't devolve into an flame war.

  8. Hey all,


    For those of us who plan to build the new ZM G-14 kit as a G-14 but not in the Hartmann markings, it seems there are a very limited supply of readily available decals.  Since I've recently discovered the "art" of mask making and I love those blue-green orlon seat belts by HGW, the lack of readily available decals is not a problem for me.  I'm interested if anyone can tell me how a "late-war" Bf109G-14 would've looked/been painted.  I don't have a lot of reference materials on this aircraft and with the mud-hole of new, rebuilt, and modified airframe possibilities, it seems that almost any Luftwaffe camouflage scheme would be appropriate for lets say, a JG11 assigned bird (I like the yellow nose and RVG bands).  There exists a photo of White 9 (I believe it's also posted in someone's thread here) but if I were to plan a fictitious "representative" machine (i.e., White 4), am I closer to being accurate if I use 74, 75, 76 or can I just about go wild with the late war Luftwaffe colors (81, 82, 83...and possibly the yellow-green version of 76) or go even wilder and mix them together on the same airframe?  I'm thinking the G-14 will be a U4 (I love that 30mm cannon) and if I remember what I read in a thread here, there was just one factory that made the /U4 version (oh, and we MUST have the tall tail).  I'm not super concerned about the authenticity of the scheme but I'd like to be "in the ballpark" so, any input is welcome :)


    Not sure if this belongs in LSP Discussion or in the Aviation Discussion and Research forum... I have a 50/50 shot :)




  9. 5 hours ago, Citadelgrad said:

    Mustang experten, can the Tamiya P51 D/K that is on sale be accurately build as a Euro theater bird? Is the only difference on a K the prop, and is the D prop included in that boxing? 


    I have a vinyl cutter so kit markings no longer limit my options. 


    1. Yes, the P-51D/K kit can be built into a "mid-to-later block" ETO aircraft - "mid-to-later block" meaning the D/K kit does not come with the tail without the fin fillet (a P-51D-5 cannot be built without the fillet-less tail - all others have the fillet - caveat:  There are two types of fin filet, but that's not germane to your questions).

    2. No, there are a few other minor differences between the P-51D and the P-51K (namely the Dallas hood [aka canopy]) but the prop is the main indicator and yes, both are included in the P-51D/K kit as is the Dallas hood (as well as the two other canopy options).


    CORRECTION:  I somewhat misspoke  when I said that a P-51D-5 cannot be built without the filletless tail...  There were kits shipped to and installed in the field so it is possible to build a P-51D-5 with a fin fillet but that fin fillet will be of the early style; again, another topic. You will need to check the serial number or the data placard on the aircraft to find if the aircraft is a P-51D-5 and also have a corresponding shot of the tail to see if it has been modified or not.

  10. 23 minutes ago, Radub said:

    For all it's worth, I just measured the ZM tailwheel and the Revell tailwheel and I get the same diameter, respectively 9.7 mm.



    According to the P-51D/K Illustrated Parts Book, the tail tire is 12.5" x 4.5" so in 1/32 that equates to 0.391 inches or 9.92 mm.  I'd say 9.7 is damn close to being dead nuts on.  Color that "fatal flaw" debunked courtesy of Radu.

  11. These are the results I'm getting on my 1/48 Hasegawa Typhoon.  As you can see, it suffers from some bleed-through.  The bottom roundel on the right wing had a really strange occurrence.  The yellow MRP paint lifted when I pulled up the mask...no biggie as I have another mask that I can lay over it and respray the yellow.  The bottom already has the Medium Sea Grey applied...






    o9niUxr.jpg aeS1wsH.jpg



  12. So basically, I'm doing it correctly, including taping across the roundel to remove it from the sheet; I guess I just need a bit more practice.  I noticed on your French build, you show a little bleed between the red and white in one of your photos.  I guess it's the nature of the beast so I'll just have to make allowances as I progress.  Thanks for the information and "how-to".  I think the next time I need to "replace" a mask section, I'll use liquid mask around the periphery to seal the cut between the two areas so it won't bleed through.

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