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Juggernut

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Posts posted by Juggernut

    Tamiya F-16C - Block 50 w/Upgrades

    in Works in Progress

    Posted

    2 hours ago, dustiepal said:

    When I tried to fit the Wolfpack ACES II seats in my Tamiya F-16 they where to wide. Hope yours fit, sounds like a great project.

     

    Dave

     

    Thanks, I'll be looking out for that....IF they don't fit, I'll resort to the kit seat and modify it accordingly.

    Tamiya F-16C - Block 50 w/Upgrades

    in Works in Progress

    Posted

    Ok, here we go....

     

    This is my latest attempt at the F-16 by Tamiya.  I tried the Thunderbirds kit a long, long time ago but got stressed out and binned it (this was long before it went OOP).  Fast forward to now...I saw the latest Have Glass V scheme on the Block 50 aircraft and decided to:

    • Create a model based on the HG V scheme
    • Create decals for at least one aircraft (I ended up creating markings for three so I have a choice).
    • TBD - I've still got some outstanding decals to create, mostly stencils for the pylons and things like that.

     

    Aside from the F-16 kit, I've assembled a good selection of aftermarket to include:

    • Quinta Studios F-16 cockpit set
    • Phase Hangar Resin JHMCS sensor (for the canopy rail)
    • Reskit AIM-120Cs
    • Reskit AIM-9X
    • Reskit GBU-54 bombs
    • Reskit BRU-57 SMART bomb rack
    • Reskit F110-GE Exhaust Nozzle (Open)
    • Wolfpack Aces II Seats (Late)
    • Eduard GBU-39 Small Diameter Bombs w/BRU-51 rack

     

    I'm still on the hunt for Master AOA probes and possibly, a set of static dischargers although I can probably create these myself with the stainless rod and tube I have in-house...we'll see.  I'd love to get a set of stabilators from Kopecky Scale Models but I'm too late there...all sold out.

     

    So, where to start?  I decided on the AN/ALQ-131(V) deep pod... No particular reason other than it's as good a place as any.  The Reskit 131 pod looks absolutely fantastic in the box and when coupled with the Kopecky Scale Models AN/ALQ-131 pylon, it'll be dynamite! There are three main parts, the two ends and the body...simple.  The fit is pretty good.

     

    RcoWg6m.jpg

     

    The mounting lugs, electrical connection (at least that's what I think it is) and the 4 stabilizer points (again, not knowing what they're actually called) fit into the drilled holes on the top.  Each part has positive locating pins and in order to make sure it fits correctly, you need to have the pylon you're going to use handy or you may be sorry later on.  The electrical connection (immediately in front of the forward mount lug) sits in a recessed box; again, with a positive locator on the parts. 

     

     

    HPfEsV0.jpg

     

    I'm trying to make my photographs informative (like the ones Chuck does in his builds) so I've added commentary to the photos.  Next up will be primer and a coat of 36375, gloss coat then decals.  Yes, the Reskit pod (and indeed a lot of their other items) come with decals.

     

    Need some recommendations on ACES II Seats and Other Stuff for the F-16C - And So it Begins.....

    in LSP Discussion

    Posted · Edited by Juggernut

    Oh wow, I almost had a minor coronary....:frantic:

     

    I was reading through the Tamiya instruction booklet and I realized that the AIFF "bird slicer"antennae are not on the instruction sheet... Slipping into a mild panic, I came upstairs to discover that the part IS there in the kit, it's just not called out in the instructions.  Nothing like going from 70 to 200 bpm and then back to 70 in 2 minutes or less....

     

    Anyway, I've started work on this project (FINALLY!).  I've got a beautiful Reskit AN/ALQ-131 pod and the requisite centerline pylon from Kopecky Scale Models.  As I get moving, I'll start a thread for those that may be interested.  It's gonna be a wild ride!  Thank God Chuck has his F-16 build for me to reference and using the same reference book as he had (F-16C/D Viper Guide by Reid Air Publications).  I have an idea on how to tackle those damn wingtip position lights...but I've gotta do a little bit of thinkin on it before committing knife/saw to plastic.

     

    WIP Thread

    Best Micro Drill/Pin Vise

    in Construction & Scratch-building

    Posted

    14 hours ago, thierry laurent said:

    Possible but they are directly sold by Amazon in their Starrett range. So this is weird. I just checked and it looks he was not the only one who had been burnt!

    https://www.amazon.com.be/Starrett-S166Z-Octagonal-Insulated-Handles/dp/B000KYOF6G

     

    Those are somewhat different than the ones I use.  They have a PVC handle.... and it also appears there are similar comments from the U.S. for this set.

     

    This is the set that includes the ones I currently have.  They seem to get somewhat better reviews.

     

    Starrett 162 Pin Vise Set

    Luscombe Phantom

    in Aviation Discussion & Research

    Posted

    I love AirCorps Library, most time I could find what I was looking for (except the rare as hen's teeth Republic document on painting P-47's - The Smithsonian doesn't appear to have a copy either).  Unfortunately for me, the subscription price outstripped my ability to continue to subscribe so I have to be content with what's currently in my library and on my computer.

    Best Micro Drill/Pin Vise

    in Construction & Scratch-building

    Posted · Edited by Juggernut

    The Starrett 162A is the best pin vise anywhere.  After using all different types over the years, this one beats them all, hands down.  You'll have to twist the pin vise between your thumb and forefinger to get it to work (there's no live action chuck) but it holds a #80 drill bit (and smaller ones as well) tightly and does not allow the bit to slip.  After getting this one, it's the only pin vise I will ever use....  I've purchased two or three because it also holds scribing needles with the same vigor.  

     

    There are four in the series 162A-162D and each has a range of size bits it will handle.  The 162A handles most modeling drill bit sizes (61-80 and smaller).  Below is a link to the company website for information.  I usually purchase mine on Amazon.

     

    Starrett 162A Pin Vise

    To be or not to be accurate, that is the question

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    22 minutes ago, Citadelgrad said:

    I try to balance between accuracy and my limited abilities.   When I built my Gabreski P 47, I spent a lot of time figuring out what the drop tank plumbing was supposed to look like, and was pretty happy with the result.  

     

    I also added corrugated to the floor because when I started, that was the info I had.  Win some, lose some.  

     

    I try to build things that really existed, and try to make my model look, to my eye, like the real thing, but the draw for me is the mental distraction that a good hobby provides.  That's why I do this.  When I was young and inpatient, it was a race. N9w I spend years on and off working on a large kit. 

     

     

     

    I remember you doing that research and to your credit, I'm using it on my 1/48 P-47D Razorback for the centerline drop tank.  I refered out to one of Tolga's threads on his P-47D Razorback build to learn about how to plumb the underwing drop tanks.

    To be or not to be accurate, that is the question

    in General Discussion

    Posted · Edited by Juggernut

    How accurate (shape and detail) is, in my opinion, directly related to the interest and knowledge level of the person building the kit.  In my case, I will never touch an HK Models B-17 kit; any of them.  I cannot unsee or let pass all the issues that plague that kit.  That is my personal choice.  Other people don't care about the issues which is totally fine and dandy.  It's their money, they can spend it (or not) on whatever they feel is a good kit for the money.

     

    On the other hand, I have an HK Models Do335 Nightfighter and it may have shape or detail issues and I'm totally fine with that, it looks like a Do335 Nightfighter. 

     

    If you've a mind to compete, accuracy is NOT one of the judging criteria in an IPMS contest; at least it shouldn't be according to the judging rules.  Having said that, you'll sometimes find a judge at an IPMS event that has read everything there is about a given subject and said kit and will invoke that in judging; which should not be tolerated.  Accuracy of markings, paint, etc...yeah but not shape or detail.  The model is judged according to several pre-established criteria and I do not believe shape accuracy is among them (other than paint and/or markings).  It's even less important with an open-judging contest (Gold, Silver, Bronze instead of a 1st, 2nd, and 3rd).  Most IPMS judges wouldn't know if a serial number on a given aircraft is correct or not...and most don't care.  What they do care about is the level of finish done with that serial number (i.e., no decal silvering, correctly aligned, etc.)

    HK B-17F Prices

    in LSP Discussion

    Posted · Edited by Juggernut

    The HK Website lists the kit at $368.  That's a first for me when a reseller charges more for a kit than the manufacturer.  I know Sprue Brothers ups their prices on existing inventory whenever there's a product price increase.  I'm not sure if that's across-the-board or just with certain manufacturers but I've definitely noticed price hikes on existing inventory...view it one day and it's at price X, then view it a day or two later and it's now price X+Y.  Whatever justification of raising the price of current inventory (that's already been purchased so it's a sunk cost) by cost Y is, I'd like to know.  I still buy a lot from them but I keep my options open until I make my decision.  I also go to Amazon for kits on occasion.  Sometimes, they have really good pricing on kits.  I just picked up two 1/48 Tamiya F-16 kits (different kits) for just over $80, shipped, including sales tax.  You can't even get close to that price with any of the "popular"  resellers that have the kit.  Having said that, with Amazon, you've gotta be Johnny-on-the-spot if you see a kit you're looking for at a very low price...the next time you look at it, the kit may revert back to a higher price.  Also, Amazon offers free shipping on a lot of stuff (at least in the US) on orders over $35....Not everything but a lot of stuff.  Amazon does not currently have the B-17F kit, only the B-17E/F kit.

     

    Another retailer, Scale Hobbyist, has the B-17F kit for $417.90 so there has to have been a price hike by someone, either the manufacturer or in distribution pipeline and like SB, I don't believe they've run out of inventory on this kit either, it used to sell around $395 the last time I looked at it.

     

    Personally, I'd never even look at Kitlinx for anything.  It's the same guy who previously ran another online hobby business (Great Models but I may be mistaken on that) and I think there's been more than a few complaints about product availability and such with this guy.

     

    Andy's price is the best I've ever seen since the 1/32 B-17G was first released.  Back then I think I paid $289 for it (and promptly sold it for that price after looking at what was in the box - personal choice based on my knowledge of the old girl).  I'd say, if you're in the market for a B-17F (or G as I believe this kit comes with all the fixins to make an early G), pull the trigger now or run the risk of missing out on a helluva good price.

    Mid/late war A6M5 (tamiya kit)

    in Aviation Discussion & Research

    Posted

    Yes, that is correct.  Mitsubishi built aircraft would have J3SP painted wheel wells while the Nakajima built counterpart had aotake in the wheel wells.  
     

    You can tell which it would be if you can see the paint demarcation line on the aft fuselage (sweep up from trailing edge of the wing to leading edge of the stab= Nakajima built, if not then Mitsubishi built.  Also the white surround on the Hinonaru is also an indicator; 75mm (thick line) = Mitsubishi built, thin white surround (25mm) is Nakajima.

     

    As a bit of information, the Tamiya A6M5 kit is more of a mid-war model (late 1943-early 1944).

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