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crackerjazz

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crackerjazz last won the day on January 19 2015

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  1. Thanks, guys! No, it's still in that state since the last post, unfortunately. So it has remained that way for the past 7 years : )
  2. Thanks Kevin! HI Squizzy, I kind of messed up the intake area of my Trumpeter trying to fix it, but yes, I hope to get back to it, someday. Have to get a good canopy for it as well. Hi jenshb, that's a big 10! Not looking forward to building bombs anytime soon, haha.
  3. This build is from over a year ago, but I waited until I could save up for a real camera instead of using just the cellphone to be able to post better pics and now that I finally got my hands on one -- a Sony A7rii, I'm not sure if I'm happy For the past few days it's all learning about the camera and about aperture, shutter speed, ISO, focusing features, but I'm just not too happy with how the photos and colors are turning out. I know I have a long way to go but here are a few trial shots anyway. Photos of an A7 Corsair II using a Sony A7rII: By comparison here are some Samsung Galaxy S6 phone camera shots: Was looking back through the constuction pics and came across this -- it's nice to compare it with the final display: Abandoned 1/32 which I hope to get back to someday: So there you have it. I feel like I can take better pics with the S6 phone camera : ( I chose the Sony A7rii because of it's 42MP resolution, low-light capabilities and dynamic range for capturing various levels of weathering easier which it does really well. Even very light weathering is easy to capture --- not so easy using the phone. But I look at A7rii photos online and compare them to mine and I'm just not sure how they achieve such beautiful depth and color. I just know it's gonna be a long time before I could achieve that.
  4. When I saw those DaVinci-sculpture-like figures-- with those folds in the fabric that look ultra-realistic I just knew they were from Reedoak. I read they are rubber-composite 3D prints -- are they flexible and are they harder to paint?
  5. Hi guys, thanks! I was considering a 1:1 but I couldn`t imagine being able to pull off such. Also wasn`t sure about how I`d be doing the scratchbuild that mistakes will be obvious big time if built fullsize. One of the first models I built was an A4 so it brings back good memories. Yeah, it must have been cramped, I read about that foam padding under the IP for taller pilots. I tested, too, using those small toggle switches to see if they will look the part. I`m leaning towards the styrene ones Thanks for looking!
  6. Hi, I've been working on a project that hopefully I can finish this time. I was too ashamed to post for a while as my builds were taking forever.
  7. That looks like a fully working IP Even the toggle switch covers are there! Stellar work!!! A++++++++++++++++++++++++
  8. If I build the one with the enclosed cockpit the seat back will be hidden from view
  9. That's a beautiful masterpiece!
  10. Thanks, Maru5137 Hi Craig, thanks! for the turbine blades I printed one on a piece of paper and stuck it onto styrene with some spray glue. I made cuts in between the blades then peeled off the paper. And then one by one twisted each blade from the base using tweezers.
  11. Starfighter, thanks! Hi, Harvey, Out2gtcha -- I'll have some stuff printed out soon. I'll try to scratchbuild what I can, though, in order to save on printing cost and because printed parts tend to have grow lines even on flat panels and have limitations on printable details. Hi BiggTim -- here's the UMM link for the punch and die sets. I'm not sure if they'll work for thin brass -- it might dull the punches faster, but I do remember reading about someone using it for punching out coke cans for making an instrument panel for a Harrier build. The round ones are a bit tricky to use; the acrylic-topped rectangular ones have that "see-through" advantage to make hole alignment easier. http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/index.php?cPath=21_145
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