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TwoHands

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Everything posted by TwoHands

  1. Your doing beautiful work but your putting yourself though hell with the fasteners. I make them in 1/32 by sharpening a hypodermic needle on the outside a bit. I twist the needle to make the circle and make the slot with the tip of a knife. This is also how I make flush rivets. Your way looks great in 1/18 like I said but that is a LOT of work for what will end a subtle effect and would be much more difficult in 1/32. Keep up the good work!
  2. Stunning work Jay. So glad your documenting this build. One of my favorite things about LSP is seeing the work and ingenuity that goes into a really great build.
  3. They are an extremely handy took once you start using it. Very fine cuts and fast even on thick stock.
  4. PLEASE stop buying these by the dozens so I can get just ONE when they hit the stores again OK???
  5. Jay, Japanese saws cut on the pull stroke. I have a couple different ones I have nought for modeling. the basic concept is since your pulling rather than pushing so the blade stays straight. This is is the general type I'm taking about but there are many. https://www.amazon.com/Vaughan-BS240P-Pull-Stroke-Handsaw/dp/B00004Z2WO
  6. GREAT pics Bil! Saved them all for for future projects. Thanks!
  7. I see a blank canvas for 2 years worth of detailing....
  8. I have had a Revell Tomcat on the pile for years because I could not find any AM parts. Has anybody tried using the Tamiya AM resin or eduard etch in the Revell kit? J
  9. I was looking for markings that might be compatible with the Kitty Hawk Texan the aircraft I found is an SNJ4 so it should not be hard to model from the kit but I found this tidbit... "In 1943, a batch extending from BuAer 51350 to 51676 rolled off the assembly line at the North American Aviation factory near Dallas, Texas. It was unusual in having all-wood stabilizers and rear fuselages. In 1942, fears of wartime shortages of strategic metals such as aluminum dictated this construction. Only certain AT-6Cs and SNJ-4 variants shared this feature." Now I know this aircraft has a massive degree of variation but this was a surprise. I'm contacting the owners to see if this still airworthy aircraft could still possible have a wooden fuse and stab. Anybody know more about this oddity??? Thinking about I would model it??? Thanks- J
  10. Those are to guide your drill for adding raised rivets! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tichy-Train-Group-8017-Scale-Rivet-Heads-pkg-200-020-05cm/381986832281?epid=659177513&hash=item58f0307f99:g:ceUAAOSw32lYtwfe
  11. Thanks, have seen it but always stuck with the same old. Will check it out. J
  12. Does anybody know where to get the etched rivet spacing guide with multiple lines of spacing? How big are the holes for the tool?
  13. I have seen tons of planes and have lots of pics. What I'm asking is what would look obviously WRONG? I'm thinking a good average is 4".
  14. I'm making a riveting tool. It will be about 2 inches long and will be curved on an 18" radius. You will start at one edge and roll down the rivets without the need for a guide if you follow scribed panel lines. Because in rolls it can follow curves etc. I'd like to only make one or two so I'm asking for a general idea how far flush aircraft rivets are part. I know what I think but I'm wondering what would look right in general for a typical stressed aluminum skin with flush rivets. A compromise spacing? If I can get the needles and make it work I'd be glad to show what I'm going.
  15. WINNER, WINNER, CHICKEN DINNER!
  16. But EVERY line is not the same shade. I love to do paint jobs like this!
  17. My contest models were always displayed with a pack of photos.
  18. Many of you have reached the point I wanted to make. There is a HUGE difference in what "looks good" and what's accurate. In a modeling contest accuracy should rule, but the most accurate model may not look as good as the "best in show".
  19. Is it me or has this panel line pre-shading business gone way too far??? Some of these planes look like a quilt!
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