Craig361

Yep, 'misspoke' on that!

The dorsal fin that was installed in the field (depots/ base engineering sections) for the B/C's were P/N 104-25001 (Tech Order 01-60JD-43), these were also fitted to the last C models on the production line (per production print). D's (and K's) Inglewood and Dallas production received P/N 109-25001 dorsal fin (the 'straight dorsal fin). The 104-25001 dorsal fin is the one with the curve in it. In discussions with others who have researched this as to the curvature this was not intended but an initial manufacturing occurrence as the print for the part does not show the curvature or include any design data allowance for it. Someone finally figured out how to remove the curvature without damaging the piece, the dorsal fin has compound shapes and aluminum can be tricky even when using 'O' (soft) material. The dorsal fins (along with a reverse rudder boost tab) were installed to prevent overloading of the horizontal surfaces when the aircraft assumed high angles of yaw during certain maneuvers.

It is the exact same as the original release save the removal of the dorsal fin and decal change. I compared sprues side by side from each kit for a part comparison and nothing else was changed. It still has the same too narrow cockpit floor. Craig

Sprue Bros in the States has them if they have not sold out in the past couple of days. That is where I purchased mine. (uncompensated endorsement btw) Craig

In the event anyone was curious without buying the D-5 release of Dragons P-51D. With the exception of the removal of the dorsal fin and change of decals to reflect that, it is the exact same kit otherwise. Nothing else was changed. Craig

Excellant work Geoff. The angle of the MLG from perpendicular is 11° forward Craig P51SIG Admin P51SIG?

If you are replicating Dzus fasteners on WW2 USAAF aircraft then what you want is what basically represents a slotted screwhead, then with a slightly larger circle around it to represent the aircraft washer used with it to protect the aluminum panel.

This is one of those "you pays your money and takes your chances" things in buying white metal landing gear. The area where it will be the weakest is the axle adapter area where it is the thinnest and most likely to be bent or broken. Too much rigidity and it will snap if mishandled, to malleable and it will sag over time. Castings of any kind are always inherently weaker than something made from solid stock. As texas mentioned, best way around it is to make your own from tubing and flat stock.

Radub, my comment about the computer and internet connection was not aimed at you or anyone else. It was basically a reflection on why I seldom if at all post here anymore. Someone who is no longer on the LSP Staff got a little agitated for some reason about the amount of responses I was giving in answer to questions about P-51's and the resulting kudo's I was getting for sharing the information. I've never claimed to be an expert on the Mustang, just someone who has a genuine interest in it. This person posted that (best I recall) anyone could be an expert by getting on the internet and finding the info in 5 minutes. Well, I haven't spent all the time and money buying and studying books, manuals and the real thing for that nonsense so that's why I haven't posted anything in a while. I've never minded sharing what I've learned about the Mustang, just been glad to help out. My apology for all misunderstood intent. Craig

Was bound and determined not to get into this topic as at one time I was told here that anyone with a computer and an internet connection could be an expert on something. But, seeing this fire drill unfold as it has finally drew me out, so........... #1 thing with the Dragon prop is that it is 7 scale inches to large in dia. It measures out (at least mine did) to 11'-9", should be 11'-2". In 1:1 that's nearly 1/4" or .250 #2 Simply no airfoil shape to the blades. The blade and cuff are the same thickness from leading edge to trailing edge. The bottom of the cuff also needs to be recontoured to the correct shape. #3 The blades look to have been molded with the face and back facing the wrong direction, 180 ° off if you will. Like they were made for ccw rotation instead of cw (as viewed from the cockpit) as they should be. #4. The blade twists doesn't look correct but, looking for a good clear end view of the real thing to compare with to be sure. Later

Something I use a lot are a couple of different style blades in my exacto handle. I first use a sanding drum in my dremel tool to remove the unwanted kit details, then I use either a wide flat blade or it the section is curved, a curved blade to scrape away the material. I do a little sanding with 320 grit along the way as I scape with the blades. A little slow perhaps but doesn't really take too long to do. I can control the thickness as I go and it doesn't heat the plastic up, works pretty good for me.

Photo recon P-51 was the F-6 (B,C, D< etc). Believe the F-5 was the P-38 variant

Would rather have seen Hasegawa or even Dragon do it, then maybe the prices would have been more reasonable. Still hoping Has will follow up the Bubbletop with a razorback P-47. A C-note & + is too much, for that I'd rather send it to Rutman for another one of his resin B's and know I'm getting one without shape issues and a correct wheelbay & more. Which reminds me I need to unpack that thing and restart it. Craig361 P51SIG Admin P51SIG?

In his book "An Ace of the Eighth", Norman "Bud" Fortier made a statement about the P-47 being called the 'jug' because of its resemblance to a milk jug. I would have to reread the book to find his exact wording but he did use 'milk jug' in it.

tourist is correct about the chromate zinc, the baby poop yellow is it's natural 'color'. Everything else is a dirivetive of adding something to it to get another 'color'. Such as adding lamp black to chromate zinc to get green chromate zinc etc.

Hi Jim, it's cold up here as usual (about -8 right now) and about to finish up a dent repair on a Metro to finish the night here after lunch break. I'll try to remember to get that rutman B model out and send you some pics of it. The detail of the fuselage and wings are great, just a beaucoup bunch of prep work. Makes a good longterm project, least thats the way its turning out for me, I really need to get it back out and do some more work on it. Craig

I'm currently working on a wheel bay for the Dragon kit(albeit slowly) as I have time on the weekends and have time for researching then actually doing some building. I plan on doing this only once as I plan to use the master to cast what I think I will eventually use. This is going to be how my whole Dragon P-51 build is going to go. When I'm done with the wing in its entirety, I'll move on the the cockpit & radio area behind the seat. Will be slow as the first day of my weekend is catching up on sleep(I'm on lunch break now), a day to work in the garage then the rest of my time goes to the Mrs. I'll be taking pictures along the way and will try to post a few progress pics when I think enough is made.

Steve probably hit on the reason you don't see too many finished. I have one and have had it around for a long time. I have the fuselage together with a partiall finished cockpit in it. It took a lot of sanding time to the the heavy casting pour down to where the sides could be fit together. Really thick in the vertical stab area. Not that anything is beyond a builders skills but a lot of tedious sanding/clean-up work that adds a lot more time to the build that most may not have time to fool with, or want to burn the the time to do. I got one of Jerry's P-47 bubbletops in a trade and while a little better, still has a lot of clean up to do. The small parts are better with some flash to remove, but the wing fuselage sections have a lot of time burning pour removal to do and that may turn off a lot of folks once they get them. I see more Rutman kits in the trade columns than I do in the build forums and that may be the reason. I'll eventually finish mine, but it's a lot more fun building than it is cleaning up excess resin.

Yeah I won't deny it's a dog for sure. I'm taking pics as I go, not sure how often I'll post them, its going to be a slow go.

Can you actually referance a post anywhere where someone said the DML kit was unbuildable? Even Cleaver in his review at M2 didn't say it was unbuildable amongst the trash talk of his. Actually started one myself last week, hope to spend more time on it this weekend, now that I actually have a weekend

Wouldn't claim to be an expert, just someone who has a love for the P-51 and learns as much as possible about it and tries to acquire new (to me) information every chance I get. And always glad to help if I can. Craig

Martin, the sprue id is J and the wheel bay insert is part # 10

Martin, the Bandaii seta looks mor like a D seat than the Airfix one, but it's still not that great. I scratchbuilt one for my build a couple of years ago.

That was true for the early Allison engined Mustangs. When the Merlin was installed there were some changes in the fuselage depth and the flat plywood floor was added beginning with the B/C models.

Martin, yes the floor should be flat and the seat is more the B & earlier bariant styles. Something else that really needs correcting is the extension of the gear legs. The oleos are molded in a fully extended position and gives the Airfix Mustang a "tippy toe" look. Cut the exension down to about 3-1/2 scale inches for the right 'set' & the legs should have an 11 degree forward rake from perpindicular to the wing chord line.. Dihedral should be 5 degees