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Revell Spitfire Mark 2A


andromeda673

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Wow, looks great. I couldn't go close to that as a freehand camo job. Keep it up, will you use masks or decals for the markings?

 

Jim

 

 

I like the texture and subtle color contrasts on the top a LOT.  Bottom appears to have too much contrast to me.  I think it would help to match the top and bottom in texture and subtlety.  Just my take.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

 

 

Terrific progress on the Spit. The cammo weathering looks spot on.

Keep 'em coming

Peter

 

 

Thank you boys, I'm going to use decals, for the markings, actually the kit decals. I have been thinking about spraying another coat of sky blue on the bottom to break up the heavy weathering. I also still have to add a wash, I'll do that only have the decals are down and sealed. I have to get the canopies masked and sprayed today, that would be a big step forward in completing this thing. 

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Well made some more progress, I finally got all of the decals down, the landing gear attached, the wheels, the canopies, the door, and also the line from the antenna to the rear wing. I still have to paint that, and then get the gloss coat over the decals, then flat coat hopefully tomorrow. To be honest I'm not happy with the outcome, I should have just gotten masks and painted the markings. 

 

Ohhhh well, you live and learn. Someday, I'll get decals figured out. 

 

100_6238_zps9n2ysuao.jpg

Edited by andromeda673
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Great progress, before applying decals do you gloss coat out of interest?

 

Regards. Andy

 

yep, and wet sanded as well, I just looked at the decals today, and they are absolutley dog piss, they have bubbled, cracked, and silvered like a bad habbit, this is the 4th time now on a build where for whatever reason, the decals have gone to absolute trash. 

 

Honestly this thing is getting pitched right to the garbage today, I have tried every single different way to get decals downs, changed paints, changed base coats, changed clear coats, changed decal setting solution, same old result, EVERY SINGLE TIME! And for whatever reason, every time I apply a flat coat over the decals, they bubble peel and rise and lift right off the model, regardless of dry time. I waited a week, before applying a flat coat, same thing. 

 

I had the same thing happen on my JASDF build, cost me $40 in decals, and honestly they still look like piss, however I was able to hide some of the defects and f-ups with a wash, that's how you know you have reached a sad state, when you are using wash's to cover up decals and make them look "acceptable" 

 

I was going to order up some maketar masks for the insignia's and what not, but at this point, I'm so over it, that I'm going to just stick to armor moving forward, no decals, no bs, just paint, and flat coat. 

Edited by andromeda673
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Before you pitch the model, there's something I've done in the past which might work ... if you're going to throw it away anyway it's probably worth a shot.

 

I take a scribing needle (which is just an old airbrush needle sharpened with a diamond file, but any sharp point will do), and use it to prick dozens of little holes in the decal (probably 2-3mm apart, so you'd need a lot for an RAF roundel in 1/32). The holes aren't visible to the eye, as it just makes a small puncture, and doesn't remove any decal material.

 

Then I cover the decal in Mr Mark Setter, which is (AFAIK) the "hottest" decal setting solution out there. The solution gets in through the tiny holes and soaks in behind the decal, and will help it suck down on to the model. I've used this in the past and almost completely eliminated some nasty silvering with it, and I've never had the holes be visible on the finished model. Any remaining silvered patches can be dealt with by pricking them directly and soaking again in decal solution.

 

If that doesn't work, I've got nuthin' for you! Good luck.

 

Cheers

Jim

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Hi andromeda, I feel your pain. I have little success with decals too so you're not alone. If these are the kit decals then it's probably more down to them than anything you did. I did n't use any of the kit stencils on my recent MkII build as they were thick and unreliable. Using the wing roundels over the walkway line left a big step which is unsightly. Lesson learnt.

 

It would be a shame to throw the model away after all of this effort so I hope Jim's idea will work. Can you step away from the project for a while and come back to it with fresh eyes? Sometimes that can help.

 

For future builds I'd recommend trimming the backing film as close as possible to the markings (I see you might have trimmed some anyway) to help with any silvering but that's all the advice I can offer.

 

Good luck.

 

Cheers.

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thanks for the tips, but I have lost faith in it to be honest, what I thought was weird was I had to re-apply setting solution to one decal twice, it would not take, and would not sick PERIOD. 

 

I have a feeling the problem is with the setting solotions, I use the red micro set, and the decal bubles and wrinkles, which according to anyone and everyone is normal, but then when the decal "dries" the wrinkles dont ever leave, they stay. 

 

Like I said, honestly I'm over it, and will more then likely go back to tanks and armor, jets and props just aren't my thing, even though I love them. I'm just burned out on having the same result with every build, regardless of how I change products and procedures. 

Edited by andromeda673
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Guest Peterpools

I've done the same as Jim is dealing with nasty decals and silvering and I've succeeded many more times then failed.

Good luck and give it a try.

Peter

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