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Hungarian Bf109G-14, Part II

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Some may remember this short thread from 2009:
Hungarian Bf109G-14

Otherwise looking a bit like this:

I wasn't happy with a number of things in that build so I put it next to my Trumpeter 1/24 P-51D on the Shelf of Doom and moved on to other 109's and P-51D's.

When this Group Build materializd I thought I might as well see what I could see about resurrecting it since I have wanted to build this scheme from the first day I saw it waaayyyyy back in IPMS Quarterly Volume 6 Number 2, March 1971, which I still possess.

Many, if not all, of these details I have done before and if you've followed any of my previous 109's you'll recognize them, as they for the most part are the same. If you haven't followed my previous 109 builds, or don't recognize the details, I'll be referring to that specific thread in my signature where the detail construction may be found, but not the post #, if you are so inclined to be interested to find how I did the detail.

One of the things I was unhappy about in the previous incarnation were the results obtained in painting this scheme. I wanted to trap the color edges instead of overlap them and in attempting to do so the result was that all of the color edges were ridged. I suppose I could have sanded them down, but I did not, instead I put the kit aside and began work on the Hartmann G-14.

Thru the generosity of Forum members I learned to use Mr. Hobby Mr. Color Thinner as a paint stripper instead of lighter fluid. Never use lighter fluid to strip paint. You can see the traumatic results from its' use in my Bf109K-4 thread.

I put aside my K-4 and F-4 builds, stripped the model, broke out my 3-ring binder and CD of details and started anew. 25 images.

Punched discs, shaped strip and rod to hold trim wheel chain in place. Little switch is supposed to be mount to the right of the angled shape. I couldn't do it.

Removed the location of the glass tube, drilled thru from the left, made a new glass tube from clear sprue.

Rear deck. Forgot to add the door. It is detailed similar to the door in the F-4 thread.

Antenna wire lead-in.

4-photo Walk-around. 1.





More below.

Edited by dodgem37

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Flattened solder.



Small details. Switch next to the cartridge counters is flattened solder.



Separated the horizontal stabilizers, added solder and copper rod as hinges. Removed the rudder from the derelict K-4 and added .005 strip tabs. Drilled hole for tail-light but haven't put it in.



Added lots of little details. Sanded a 'V' into the sway brace bases instead of making new ones. Broke off the stem that goes into the Rack.



ETC Rack. Shell chute detail. Construction can be seen in Hartmann build found in signature.



Wheel well detail. Same as Hartmann build. I haven't finished the one with the brown/blue tape. It still needs the strut stand-off and radiator screens.



Decided to add covers instead of detailing the back wall. Lots of threading done here. Flap actuators in radiator opening.



Lots of little bits. Oil flap actuator, trim tab actuator, pressed a circle into the front of the pitot tube, aluminum exhaust shield, drilled out exhaust openings, other exhaust shield, antenna wire.



Detail of trim tab actuator. I built one in the K-4 also.



Brake line and brake line stand-off, strut tie-down, landing gear cover guide rod and base.


More below.

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Hand holds, emergency canopy release, pistol port.



Antenna wire lead-in. I failed miserably trying to drill from top-to-bottom as I was able to do in the Hartmann build. So I just drilled a hole into the side and fit in some invisible thread.



Canopy detail. Sunny side. I made this in the Hartmann build as well.



From the back.



Shady side.



Added attachment arms to the head guard.



Located the head guard in place. I didn't bother to super-detail it.



Thanks for looking in.



Edited by dodgem37

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Fantastic work Mark, and well up to your usual standard. I shudder to think of you attempting to remove all that masking tape from the inside of the canopy when the time comes! If it were me, all those internal details would be clumsily ripped out as well!



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Guest Peterpools

Brother Bear

What can I say ... I'm always in total amazement and awe of your incredible work. Maybe someday

Keep 'em coming


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Thank you, Boris.


Thank you, Kevin.

'I shudder to think of you attempting to remove all that masking tape from the inside of the canopy when the time comes! '

It is indeed delicate work, Kevin.  Those binocular magnifiers come in real handy when trying to find the tape ends.


Thank you, dergrunepunkt.  I like your handle.  Grune is a favorite color of mine.


Peter!  Thank you, Brother Bear!  But I've got nothing on you.  Your builds are marvelous.


Thank you, Maru.  I am truly humbled by your praise.


I haven't worked on the kit for about a week now.  SWMBO has a honey-do list that is taking up lots of modeling time.  But I've been plugging away with this and that.  Off the top of my head, I think I've finished riveting the fuselage and wings.  I have to double-check.  I used UMM's beading tool, #1 bead.  I still need to rivet the horizontal stabilizers.  I've removed the rudder and cleaned up that area.  I botched relocating the rod that holds the fuel tank in place so I've removed the molded on strap and now I'm thinking about how to solve the connection problem between the strap and the ETC rack. Also, I've taken apart the spinner/back-plate and prop blades so I can strip the boss and back-plate.


I've got the fuselage and cockpit, canopy and windscreen, and the cockpit hatch, along with the Bf109F-4, ready for painting.  Oh, I need to put the fuel over-flow tube in the fuselage.  Once the cockpit is done I can finally close it up and see what I can see about painting the camo scheme.


Thank you for asking.  I'll post some pictures later.  I'm taking a short break from the list right now.



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It's been a looong while, but I'm still at it.  Just not as often.


Cockpit work:



Painted everything Model Master Enamel RLM66 then gloss coated with Future. 



Scratching is Aluminum, RLM02, and rubbing the paint off to expose the plastic beneath.  Paint rubbed off is on the cannon cover.



3 layers of oil paint mud.  Building from the bottom up from light to dark, and from thin to thick, Yellow Ochre, Raw Sienna, and Burnt Umber.  Yellow Ochre was watery, Raw Sienna milky, and Burnt Umber was from the tube.



Color of cannon cover and rudder pedal straps is 1:1 Brown and White.  Once everything was 'weathered', flat coated, and dry, I went over the red with Cadmium Red oil paint and the yellow with Cadmium Yellow Light.



The flange was a bit thin from sanding, I suppose, so I needed to mask it off and build it up with primer.



Shoulder harnesses are made from folding a piece of Tamiya tape upon itself glue to glue then trimming to size.  Eduard buckles.  Pitot tube from hypodermic needles.



Starboard from the bottom.  Nothing to really write home about.  Tight quarters painting.  I didn't separate the fuselage halves prior to painting.  Vent handle painted brown to represent Bakelite, or something,



Left side.  Just tried to do my best in tight quarters.  Didn't think it would have been as difficult as it was.  Oh well.  Brown Bakelite, again.


A few more below.

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Looking down into Starboard side.  The fuel line is threaded into the floor.



Looking down into Port Side.  I see I need to work on the sill.






Rear.  Still working on the rear deck.



First RLM66 then future.  All dial faces were built up with thin black.  All bezel bases and returns were painted with the same thin black.  Because of the high thinner content I was able to go over the black with thicker black which capillaried into place.  I did that as many times as needed.


Titanium White, Cadmuim Red, Cadmium Yellow Light, Cerulean Blue, and Green (mix of Cadmium Yellow Light and Cerulean Blue) with Aluminum handle, bezel fasteners, and that little ball handle, rounding out the colors.


Thanks for stopping by.



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