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Wingnut Wings Junkers J.1 Progress Build


Phillip1

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Fellow Modelers,

I recently finished Italeri's 1/35 PT-109 Boat, which was 27.5†long and contained nearly 500 pieces. It's a great kit, but now I want something a little easier and quicker.  My current project is building Wingnut Wings Junkers J.1 straight from the box.  I selected the J.1 because I followed several internet progress builds of the model and thought it was a really cool looking aircraft.  I also loved the fact it has no rigging! Let's get started.

 

1st Image: The box top.  The yellow-orange background colors remind me of the old Aurora model box tops (is my age showing?)

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2nd Image: The interior fuselage sides are shown after painting (rust/wood/light green).  As with my last build, I do not go over the base color with oil paint to replica the wood grain.  My technique is to use pastel powders for shading and dry-brushing to accent high lights.

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3rd and 4th Image: The finished pilot instrument and radio operator panels are shown.

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5th through 7th Image: The finished pilot seat is shown.  It has really good detail.  The seat and arm rests were painted Model Master Leather.

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8th Image: The right side fuselage is shown with some details added.  Honestly, it's a pretty sparse cockpit.

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Continued...

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9th through 11th Image: Finally, the fuselage halves are glued together.  The fuselage sides resisted closing all the way but I put that on my shoulders, possibly caused by the pilot's seat being located a little out of place. 

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12th Image: I knew from the start of this project that the left and right engine cover panels would be permanently glued in the closed position.  I think the model looks a lot better with them closed.  Because of this about 90% of the engine is hidden, so I put very little effort into building/painting it.  This is the only photo I took of the engine exposed.

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13th Image: I did a fair amount cutting, bending and sanding on the engine cover panels to get a near perfect fit to the fuselage.       

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Until next time…

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Fellow Modelers,

 

1st Image: Work has moved to building the wings.  The biggest “internet†complaint about this model is the “missing†sections on the rear center wing.  These missing corrugated areas (5/8†long X 1/8†wideâ€) are very noticeable and need to be filled in.  Fortunately, the kit provides two spare corrugated parts that are not required (shown in the photo), and just happen to match the pattern on the wings (very odd)! 

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2nd Image: The first step was cutting the top piece and gluing it in place. Care was taken not to make a careless cut, since there was barely enough extra parts to get the job done.

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3rd Image: The newly glued part was cut off and sanded even with the wing trailing edge.

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4th Image: The wing was turned over and the lower piece was cut from what remained.

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5th Image: The lower piece is shown in place. The last step was adding a triangle shape styrene piece between the top and bottom pieces.

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6th Image: Another common complaint about the kit (that I agree with) is how the fit between some of the parts is too tight.  The two worst areas are where the lower wing joins to the lower fuselage, and where the left and right outer wings join to the main wings.  In all of these areas it appears the size of the mating tabs are the exact same size of the mating slots, producing a fit that is difficult to work with.  I did some serious sanding and cutting on all of the outer wing tabs to get an acceptable fit.

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7th Image: The upper and lower wings are shown completely assembly and ready for painting.  The instruction said to attach all of the outer sections after the center sections were attached to the fuselage, but I decided not to do that.  I wanted to be able to fill in the gaps between the sections with 5-minute epoxy, and completely paint/decal the wings before final attachment.  Notice how large the upper wing is (18.25†without the ailerons and 19.50†with them!).  After the Gotha, does anybody know if this is the largest combat plane the Germans used in WWI?

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8th Image: Time to paint!  This image is from the kit instructions and shows the color scheme I am I going to use.  I know many will think these markings a bit dull, but I really like them.  In fact this was the only option I considered doing.   

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9th Image: All of the major components are shown after the basic exterior colors have been applied.  For the upper surfaces I used Model Master SAC Bomber Green.  For the lower surfaces I made a special mix, combining Model Master Hellblau (100 drops) and Testors Flat White (75 drops).     

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Continued...

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10th Image: After the light green and light blue were applied, painter's tape was laid over the underside color so a sharp demarcation line could be created.

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11th Image: Weathering began by applying dark gray pastel dust over specific areas of the airplane using a small, pointed brush.  Next, most the dust was brushed away with a thick, soft make up brush. 

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12th through 15th image:  Dry-brushing was applied to highlight some of the raised edges and corrugations.  Model Master Dark Ghost Gray was the color used.  Doing this helped break up the single color and made the finish more interesting. 

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16th Image: The same weathering technique was used on the fuselage, starting with the canvas stitching.

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17th Image: This photo shows the fuselage after adding the pastel dust and dry-brushing. 

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Until next time…

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Hakan-thanks for the compliment. 

 

1st Image: Work moves to decaling and putting together the subassemblies.  In this photo the protective tape around the cockpit and engine has been removed.  Also, the fuselage decals have been added.  A thick coat of Future polish was sprayed where the decals went before they were applied.  After the decals cured, a 50/50 mixture of Testors Dullcote and thinner was airbrushed over the areas.

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2nd Image: The stabilizer and tailfin have been added.

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3rd Image: The underside of the stabilizer area is shown  

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4th Image: When it came to decaling the wings I would like to say all I had to do was: a) put the decals in place, B) brush on some Micro-Sol and c) leave it overnight to achieve a painted on look.  But that's not the case.  I knew from previously decaling surfaces like this that even with good decals a lot more work is required.  After brushing on Micro-Sol, I applied pressure to force the decals into the corrugated valleys.  This caused some splitting and tearing, which was expected.  The next step was taking a straight pin and puncturing dozens of holes in the decal wherever it was not laying flush against the model.  Another coat of Micro-Sol was added.  After the decal had completely laid down, I added black and white touch up paint to areas where they were split.  Lastly, another heavy coat of Future was sprayed to the entire decal to give it a uniform finish.  It was a lot of work, but I am very happy with the results.  This photo shows how well the decal is laying down on the lower wing.  Final Dullcote has not been applied.

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5th and 6th Image: These photos show a completely finished upper wing decal after the Dullcote was applied.

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7th through 10th image: Photos of the fuselage after the lower wing has been attached.

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continued...

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11th through 12th Image: Photos of the underside fuselage and lower wing.

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13th through 15th Image: Some of the fuselage and wing struts have been glued in place. The struts, landing gear and radiator were painted dark green. I used Model Master Field Green.

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16th and 17th Image: The radiator is shown attached to the upper wing. The second photo gives a good view of the sharp demarcation color line, and how Model Master Aluminum paint was applied at random to represent chipping.

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Until next time…

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Guest Peterpools

Phillip

Ive been following quietly and enjoying your work, especially the weathering. - so nicely do. excellent progress on the Junkers

Keep ;em comng

Peter

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