Guest Peterpools Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 Tomek Incredible, just fantastic work Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 Amazing weathering, very nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 Love it Tomek ! Great work..........Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozzy Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 Bloody hell!...that's fantastic Tomek! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomek Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Thank you guys! I hope I'll manage better color wise photos for the final. What I've shown is nowhere close to color seen by naked eye. Contest night at my club is rapidly approaching, so I really need to step up. Time for treads. These, as I probably mentioned in the beginning are laser cut and engraved in cardboard. The design is quite clever. The treads were stiff, especially after my nitrate dope treatment. I was worried about bending them around the wheels, not to mention trying to simulate slight sagging between rollers. It turned out these can be notched at designed spots on the outside of treads and thus allow some flexibility. Unfortunately the slots on the track shoes did not fit well with drive wheel pegs (not sure that's the proper name ) when tried to put them on as one band. I had to separate each shoe, hoping that the gaps between shoes will not be to visible. I went with Tamiya metalic gray as the color for the treads. I settled finally on my approach to weathering of the lower part of the hull. To simulate dirt and mud I went with mix of Vallejo brown and dark earth gel. This was my first time using this product, and I'm very happy how well and easy it worked. The paste is gritty which makes it quite realistic. Based on my use of the gel on the treads these big containers will go a long way. After the gel dried (30-40 min) I applied brown wash to bring out details. Top after the wash, bottom before (straight Vallejo gel): I like the results, but I'm still debating if this is enough. Initially I wanted to model mud, but my result looks still too subtle, I think. More like wet dirt. I need to walk fine a line between creating believable mud and retaining the treads' details. Should I try to mix some gloss medium into gel to get more wet effect? Maybe another layer of the gel? Any input is welcomed. Let me know what you think. Time to catch some sleep ... I'll be late again to the office ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loic Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Pretty amazing paper work my friend !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Tomek Love the way the tracks look and the degree of weathering, matches that of Chaffee itself. Link by link, OMG, just don't know how you do it. Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomek Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 Oh Maru ... I've been trying to rush with the project to make the model ready for tomorrow's club contest. No time to take any photos. I will try to update the thread properly over the weekend. In the meantime one picture. Still plenty to add and correct - for example the 0.30 cal. needs to be aligned with the main gun (I noticed that only on the picture ), the treads are still not lying properly on the rollers, etc.. In terms of the mud I decided to aim at wet mud, not really sure that's convincing ... yet ... fozzy and TaffyMan 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozzy Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Tomek...the mud looks very convincing ..in fact the whole model looks convincing.....card model ?...brilliant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Out-of-Sight!, Tomek. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Tomek Just brilliantly done ... outstanding, simpoly outstanding. Looking forward to the full spread of photographs this weekend. Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BGB Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Hello, That's what I call Paperwork!! Fantastic Cheers Boris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loic Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 It is not possible to say that this is made of paper/card Brilliant work .... just brilliant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomek Posted December 28, 2014 Author Share Posted December 28, 2014 Sorry for the delay in updating the tread. First, I decided to design some wooden crates with K Rations to be carried on the tank's mud guards. Since I'm not too proficient in CorelDraw it took me a while. I was hoping I could copy such crates from other kits, but none of them were to my linking. Second, I had a little accident on ice rink (I guess I'm getting old ) and fractured my arm a little. Fortunately it's nothing serious, but it slows me down.Martin, Mark, Peter - thank you very much for the compliments! Boris, I can guarantee the last thing about such paperwork is that it is boring . Loic, thanks pal! You know that in papermodeling community this is one of the highest compliments one can give! I'm still working on various stuff that goes on the tank (blankets, fuel canisters, musette bags, etc.). Seeing KitModellerNZ's ration boxes I decided to create my own. It seems the tank crews were issued mostly K Rations in wooden crates. I found an excellent source of information in the K-rations article on usarmymodels. Since the model depicts a tank as in Apirl 1945 I used late version specification for the Chaf. I experimented a little with wood texture, finally setting on untreated pine wood. Here my earlier attempts: I figured, I might as well create a printable file and share it with others. I prepared two PDFs, one with 1/25 scale crates and the other with 1/35 scale. There was some loss of quality after creation of PDFs from TIF file - I will provide the files in both formats, just in case (TIFs are much larger ca. 50MB). Here short instruction how to print and assemble them: 1. I recommend matte photo paper (for example Canon brand) for printing 2. Print with highest possible quality. 3. Before cutting the crates out from the sheet, mark with a blade or a needle the folding lines (fresh pine wood crates don't have outlines for better results) 4. Turn the sheet upside down and make two parallel cuts about 0.5mm apart around the folding lines marked earlier. Make the cuts deep to about 2/3 of the cardstock thickness (use fresh blade!). Remove the paper from the grove using tip of your blade. 5. Apply water or clear paper glue to the groves, and fold the parts 6. Finally, glue the edges together. I recommend using clear paper glue (O'glue, BCG), but white glue may work as well. Crates in 1/25 scale: The sheet includes 3 late and 3 early versions of K-rations. Files can be downloaded here: 1/25 PDF file 1/25 TIF file 1/35 PDF file 1/35 TIF file Hope this works. TaffyMan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 EXCELLENT !.........Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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