Harold Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 Good progress Harold. How are you getting on with the internal trunking? Quite a noticeable shape change. Cheers Anthony Yes, I have it fairly smooth as well...port side done. Now to get the left side to match... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harold Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 Here are the end caps for the tanks. They are stuck end to end with sticky tac so I could keep them from rolling around. I decided to add a throttle to the end cap bags. I will send them out that way until someone makes a full cockpit for it. How's that for a bonus..?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony in NZ Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 Good one Harold! I dont need those tank ends, but if you are able to slip one in with a set of intakes.....then that would be awesome! Cheers Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harold Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 Good one Harold! I dont need those tank ends, but if you are able to slip one in with a set of intakes.....then that would be awesome! Cheers Anthony Might as well. I will be casting more this weekend. When the intakes are ready, I will put a small zip lock with the throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony in NZ Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 You are awesome! Thanks Harold Cheers, Anthony.........getting back to my Skyhawk again now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harold Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 Ok! Thanks Anthony, I'm happy to see this will be useful. There are other elements I shall add. I looked at your terrific Kahu thread in the WIP forum and indeed there is a noticeable issue with the rudder length... The problem is not so easy to solve. The immediate solution I considered would be the addition of a strip of plasticard under the rudder part or on the tail to fill the gap. This is nonetheless a bad idea as this would either modify noticeably the distance between the edge and the first rib on the rudder or change the relationship between the tail edge (under the rudder) and the panel line that starts there (this would ask for modifying noticeably some panel lines in order to hide this change). At least, dividing the gap thickness in two in order to add two thin plastic strips would already be better. However, I'm wondering if the best solution does not ask for moving downwards the two big hinges and possibly add a strip of plastic between the rudder parts and the upper sections molded with the rudder. In the worst case, we may divide the thickness in three and add a thin strip on the tail, another one under the rudder and a last one between the rudder vertical sections. I'll check this. Another aspect I did not develop: the drop tanks. The rear scribed line shall be kept (separation between the body and the tail) but all other ones shall be filled with a length of sprue or fine rod. Indeed, these are not separation lines but welds. Accordingly, they shall be molded as raised and somewhat large flat lines. The access panels shall be corrected as well. They are depicted as a raised large oval. Actually, if you go from the periphery to the center of the panel, you should have a raised oval weld (corresponding to the external edge of the molded large one), a series of screw head holes and finally a recessed oval line (corresponding to the internal edge of the molded one). I notified the lack of Shrike launchers but not that Bullpups also need them. Basic launchers may be found in the old Hasegawa Skyhawk kit. I've to check closely this aspect as it seems that some planes did not use launchers but had missiles directly secured on the pylons!?! Note that Walleyes bombs did not need specific launchers. I also forgot refering to some books I used to check the VA-212 crest shape (such as Robert Dorr's Osprey Vietnam the Air War). The Aeroguide dedicated to the A-4M shall be mentioned as well as it was useful to check some surface details common to all marks. I'll still check elements here and there as Harold sent me some stuff (Thanks!). I'll update the list to create a final version when I'll be back next week. Cheers. Have you looked into the Archer weld decals? I use his rivet sets for some of the details on my resin parts. They work very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted May 9, 2011 Author Share Posted May 9, 2011 Thanks for the tip Harold! In fact, I forgot them (I've some sets somewhere in my stash). Regarding the engine face, I'll look at this. To be frank, I never dedicate a lot of time assessing items which are more or less invisible! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harold Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 (edited) I have a "what if" question. I did a partial 'pit set a long time ago for the Hasegawa kit. (I stopped when BB did theirs) I had a few bad castings to hack up. After looking at the Trumpy kit 'pit, I thought about removing the kit "details" and replacing the consoles with a pair I hacked off one of the rejects. (the consoles are a bit generic) What if I did an improvement set, including intakes, side consoles, throttle and maybe a front wheel. Oh yes, maybe a seat to go with it? Whatcha all think? Edited May 10, 2011 by Harold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 One word...GOFORIT!.....Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 I just recieved my Trump A-4 today! Looking forward to seeing more tweeks, and ofcourse, more of Harolds super cool resin bits for this....Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 (edited) Excellent idea Harold! This would already solve most of the obvious issues. If I had to do such a set, I'd focus on most visible items and would possibly add: - a control stick head with switches - small details for the canopy internal side (at least hooks and their supports) and possibly: - a rear cockpit bulkhead with a quilted material similar to the one on the fuselage side This would result in a reasonably accurate cockpit. Edited May 10, 2011 by thierry laurent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony in NZ Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 Absolutely Harold! All of the above. Actually if you did an RNZAF Kahu mod cockpit then you would not have to worry about Aires doing one.....but then there would probably be less interest. Either way, I am sure it would be popular. Cheers Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kagemusha Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 I think a Kahu cockpit would be popular, not just for the Trumpeter kit, but the Hasegawa also, especially with some Kiwi decals on the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eli Raphael Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 Harold, The Condor Charlie set is ready to go. I'm just waiting for the F-84 decal sets to arrive next week so I can send all in the same pack. Hope you can do the C version. E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harold Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 Harold, The Condor Charlie set is ready to go. I'm just waiting for the F-84 decal sets to arrive next week so I can send all in the same pack. Hope you can do the C version. E I'll see if I can do a Charlie...thanks Harold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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