JRutman Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 Now that is just not fair! J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted March 26, 2011 Author Share Posted March 26, 2011 Now that is just not fair! J :lol: A short update more, as I'm diving into Gunze paints First, tail, fuselage sides, control surfaces and undercarriage doors were painted in standart RLM76. As the fuselage RLM76 has to be lighter than the rest, it was oversprayed with a simple FS light grey filter (a never-drying stuff !!!) until I was satisfied with the tone difference. Then, started with the camo. Leading edges / wing tips (including undersides) are RLM81. I went only this way with the darker colour first to ease the weathering on these places. Did also the stabs because... I don't know... may have had some left over mixed paint in the airbrush Now I spend the whole day on the fuselage painting with a repaired but still crapy airbrush... So some more very soon as I'm jumping from paints, to photos, to airbrush, to sort the pictures, find out where the f*** they went on the Mac... resize, upload... uhhh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 (edited) Hi A short report (but a lot of pics -hope you don't mind...!) of yesterday's 12 hours painting progress... First, I forgott to mention what AC it will be... (Yellow 7) Sorry for that ! Began with the fuselage lighter colour by drawing the outline of the camo portions, always a bit higher. This allows to build up the camo down to the right colour demarcation without overpassing it and gives some space to correct mistakes ('not sure what I mean makes sense ?) First outline Build up to the correct location And paint the rest As the fuselage has a high, straight demarcation line, I used some tape to have an optical help for it's hight and same build up ... Edited March 27, 2011 by Supermario Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 ... The tail was done at the same time And again the same process for the darker colour (RLM 81) ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
francky Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Mais t'as pas perdu la main mon Roro!!! Joli travail...allez continue!! A+FRANCK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 ... That's what I said before : repaired but still crappy !!! This is the result even with more pressure and more diluted paint... F***!!! :BANGHEAD2: At this point I sharpened and polishesd again the airbrush needle and it looks that this was the problem. Still not 100%, but while waiting for spare parts, it will do the job : The complete pic of the wings RLM82 completed And the base for the camo is now finished Correction of the sprying problem is on it's way too. The demarcations have been sanded with #6000 Micromesh and repainted with the fuselage colour mix. I don't know yet if I will repaint the camo demarcation... it does not look too bad, and better is somtimes the best way to screw things up... I'will see. Now : polishing this paint and then ... TO THE SPOTS TBC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wurzacher Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 I wished i could spray such fine demarcation lines with my fine working H&S Evolution... My airbrush is capable doing so, it´s just the incapable operator... What´s that for a book you got your paint scheme from? Keep on the great work! Thomas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 Thank you Franck !! and there is no reason to forgett some good advices !!! I wished i could spray such fine demarcation lines with my fine working H&S Evolution... My airbrush is capable doing so, it´s just the incapable operator... What´s that for a book you got your paint scheme from? Keep on the great work! Thomas I've got the same airbrush Thomas ! This thing works like an ultimate sports car !!! I don't think it's the operator !!! Keep in mind that most of our airbrushes are basically build to paint with inks... Just have a look at our paints and you will understand the problem ! There is only one solution : very good and well covering pigments and LOTS of dilution !!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Whoa, that was fast Looks nice so far. a quick question : What type of paint did you use?.I am switching from oil based paint to acrylics and I have hell of a time to combine retarder, thinner, paint and air pressure to the right levels. Also is your paint work based on the artwork in the reference book or a photograph of the real plane? Thanks. Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted March 28, 2011 Author Share Posted March 28, 2011 @ Thomas : the profil is from the small booklet that will be included in Vintage Eagle's decals and dry transfers set. @ Martin : I'm just using Gunze acrylics with Tamiya thinner, nothing else, and I did not found any better paint!! Dilution is arround 70-80% or maybe more. I can not give you the pressure I'm using as I have no gauge on my compressor... Like the dilution : just by feeling... And yes, I'm refering to the artwork mentioned above for the camo. ... As said, I went on with the spots (also touched up the straight demarcation line). Started to paint small spots at the appropriate locations, according to the profile, one colour after the other BTW more happy with the airbrush and with RLM 81 Then increased the spots size The painted areas are only what I want to be "fully" coloured and there are some lighter mottling arround each spot that will have to be added. But there is something that bother me already now... I could not figure out what, but I have the feeling that something is going wrong... This machine was build by AGO factory and having a look at some AC of this production (thank you Roger ! ), some have almost two symetrical rows of round spots on the fuselage sides and some have almost the sides covered with colour "patches" so I don't think I'm that wrong. But there is just this kind of "little somthing" I dislike So any suggestion would be welcome ! I a bit lost... Whatever, 'can be that my eyes are a bit "tired" of the camo. I'll leave it like that for a day and maybe have a "fresh" look at it a bit later. I may start now to tone down a bit those (too) bright colours before doing something I could regret later...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 But there is something that bother me already now... I could not figure out what, but I have the feeling that something is going wrong... But there is just this kind of "little somthing" I dislike So any suggestion would be welcome ! I a bit lost... Supermario, my suggestion is that the mottling figure/ground relationship doesn't create any direction. http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=29722&st=105 See post 113. I make a comment about directional movement and continuity. Directional movement is the relationaship of the mottles to each other and to the background they are on, or the pattern they create to move your eye in a direction, whether the direction be up, down, diagonal, right left. Continuity is the not-breaking up of that pattern so your eye moves easily and fluidly in the direction you want. You have a two-color, light/dark pattern. A complicated pattern. Lets look at the tail: you have 3 green mottles that create a top left to bottom right diagonal. Although, the top green should be moved upward a little to create a stronger diagonal movement. Then there is a single green mottle low and under visually stealing from the diagonal. Remove that. You can strengthen the brown by moving the lone top brown to the rear to create more of an alignment with the rear three. So exchange the location of the uppermost green and brown and you would have solved one problem, remove the lone green behind the stab. Add a bit of brown to the middle green in the diagonal in alignment with the new top left brown. Adding the brown repeats the brown/green pattern you created with the lower right green/brown mottle. This brown addition repeats a diagonal you created with the green, but you've made it in brown. Gotta go to work. I hope this helps. I also hope I answered the question. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted March 28, 2011 Author Share Posted March 28, 2011 Yesssss!!! Mark, you pointed it out !!!! I knew it had something to do with the optical effect but sometimes there are so many trees that you don't see the forest! And this right side is exactly the one that bothers me the most ! I think I will start it all over (or almost) and 'will see what I can do for the left side. Thank you VERY mucho for your "thoughts" !!! It helps me a lot having an "external" eye on it !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRutman Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 It looks good to me Mario. I think maybe you have too much"this is my baby" attitude going on? But you da man. I also have this airbrush now and it is so nice,even I can use it with no problem. J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Then there is a single green mottle low and under visually stealing from the diagonal. Remove that. I had mentioned this above, but there is another alternative, and that is to reverse the colors. Reversing the colors repeats the bottom right Green/Brown relationship. So, the colors have been Grouped: Green on the right, Brown on the left; Direction has been introduced: diagonal Green on the right, 'straight' vertical line of Brown on the left; and Repitition: 2 Brown/Green spots. This simplifies the image. Now I'm going to torture you with other Gestalt Principles of Visual Perception: http://graphicdesign.spokanefalls.edu/tutorials/process/gestaltprinciples/gestaltprinc.htm http://www.scholarpedia.org/article/Gestalt_principles The shape relationship between the figure (Browns and Greens) and ground (RLM76) needs activating. The volume, or size, of the Brown needs to change (increase or decrease) and their shape needs to change to 'activate their edges' with the other Browns and the Green. The same needs to happen with the Green: their size needs to change (increase or decrease) and their shape needs to change to activate their edges with the other Greens and the Brown. The result will increase the dynamics between the figure (Brown and Green) and ground (RLM76). In other words, there is too much RLM76 and too little Green and Brown as they relate to the RLM76, and the Green and Brown shapes need to be more lively. If I'm out of line, I apologize. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 The volume, or size, of the Brown needs to change (increase or decrease) and their shape needs to change to 'activate their edges' with the other Browns and the Green. The same needs to happen with the Green: their size needs to change (increase or decrease) and their shape needs to change to activate their edges with the other Greens and the Brown. Based on the Theory of Color Proportions, it takes 3 times as much Yellow to equal one unit of Violet. What this means is for Yellow to appear the same (brilliance) as Violet one needs to have 3 times as much Yellow as Violet, or 3 square inches of Yellow appears as the same (brilliance) as 1 square inch of Violet. This is because Yellow is a lighter color than Violet and requires more volume to appear the same. The Theory of Color Proportion applies a numerical value to each color. Using the color wheel, this numerical value is applied thusly: Yellow-9, Orange-8, Green & Red-6, Blue-4, Violet-3. How does this transfer to what you are doing? Here's how: RLM76, the lightest color, is 9; Green, the mid-tone color, is 6; and Brown, the darkest color, is 3. So for Green to appear equal to Brown, Green should be larger than Brown. The relationship may be Red (6) plus Black (1) equal Brown (3.5 [a guess]), so Green may need to be 1.7 (make it 2 times because when you add pigments the result is ALWAYS darker because of the inherent impurities in pigment) times larger than Brown, but I think I've conveyed the idea. Work on the color relationship on a piece of scrap to fine tune it. Currently both Green and Brown are the same relative size, so there isn't any size contrast. The similar sizes are competing. If you make Green bigger than Brown, there will be a size contrast, which is good. In addition, the colors should become more visually balanced. Just my additional 2 cents. HTH. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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