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Hobby Boss Il-2 single seater


Hans

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Jason, Viktor,

 

It is a well known fact that scale drawings of the same aircraft can vary considerably. Even factory drawings can be suspect -not the least due to paper shrinkage. I have 5 scale drawings of the Fokker D XXI from various sources and the all differ among each other. Even those that are claimed to be based on factory drawings. One has to do with what is available.

 

Cheers,

 

Hans

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More work in progress. I added the airflow dividers (?) into the air intake as well as the upper cowling. The thing wouldn't quite fit, probably due to the mods to the intake and I ended up with an overlap of .75 mm at the front, that had to be removed and the semi-circular panel at the front had to be moved back by an equal amount.

 

http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k638/Godbert/DSCN0931.jpg[/img]"]DSCN0931.jpg

 

The wing fillets were next. Hobby Boss gives you a row of rivets whereas in reality there is a rim where the fillets are riveted to the fuselage. I masked off the outer aereas of the fillets following the rows of rivets on the fuselage and sprayed 3 layers of Tamiya primer on the inside. After removing the tape I ended up with a tiny rim. After further drying it will be sanded back a bit and the lost rivets and panel lines reinstated.

 

http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k638/Godbert/DSCN0933.jpg[/img]"]DSCN0933.jpg

 

 

http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k638/Godbert/DSCN0932.jpg[/img]"]DSCN0932.jpg

 

Jason, thanks for the preview. Your model looks very nice.

 

 

Hans

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Thank you, Hans! My model's not up to your standards, but I gave it my best shot. I know what you mean about the intake trunk - if I tried to fit the cowling panels onto my heavily modified intake, I don't think it would fit very well. However, since my model has a completely exposed engine with the panels removed, that's not a problem. I'm not exactly sure what the horizontal divider in the intake trunk was for (diversion of the air to different radiators, perhaps?), but the vertical "dividers" were just supports, and there were (at least) two of them, one near the front, and one further back in the trunk.

 

Regards,

 

Jason

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Guest Peterpools

Hans

Just picked up on your fantastic build. Started from the beginning and red every post, enjoying the build as i went. My compliments on your research, ingenuity and craftsmanship. with all that i read and followed, the scribing of the canopy and windscreen gun sight as well as the fabric stitching stand out as going way beyond. Awesome work, filled with a host of mini tutorials. :wow: :thumbsup: :wow:

Peter

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Hans,

I would like to point out another detail: a cooling grid on the top engine cover. Please, see the attached pictures. I have not found out when exactly were they introduced. Probably from the very beginning. What we know exactly is when they were omitted, when the new Il-2 with arrow wings was introduced. It is not clear why almost all scale drawings do not show this important detail.

 

pic1, pic2

 

Sorry to not inform you earlier. Best rgds,

Viktor

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Thank you guys for all the nice comments.I'll do my best to keep the quality up :beer: !

 

Viktor thank you for the fotos of the cooling grid. I saw this grid on a drawing of an swept wing Sturmovik -four rows of small vents-, but not on drawings of earlier models, so I left it out. The second photo you posted looks like a very early all metal model with small fuselage tank and a slab of armoured glass behind the pilots' head instead of the full steel back with the small windows. Compare it with the photo below on the right, taken from a German report on the aircraft (photos published in Scale Models april 1974). You don't happen to have a drawing showing the earlier type of grid?

 

http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k638/Godbert/img165.jpg[/img]"]img165.jpg

 

The photo on the left shows the port wing launch rails with an interesting detail. The numbers on the wing near the head of the rails show the firing sequence of the rockets. The compartment at the top housed the wing gun.

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Viktor thank you for the fotos of the cooling grid. I saw this grid on a drawing of an swept wing Sturmovik -four rows of small vents-, but not on drawings of earlier models, so I left it out. The second photo you posted looks like a very early all metal model with small fuselage tank and a slab of armoured glass behind the pilots' head instead of the full steel back with the small windows. Compare it with the photo below on the right, taken from a German report on the aircraft (photos published in Scale Models april 1974). You don't happen to have a drawing showing the earlier type of grid?

 

Hans,

the cooling grid was deleted on the arrow-wing Il-2s, however the latest machines (evidently from the post-war era) had the cooling grid behind the exhausts. Just this drawing based on the posted photographs.

 

Best rgds,

Viktor

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Viktor your drawing skills are exellent. I think the easiest way to do the grid is to make it as a separate piece, cut out the relevant area on the cowling and put the grid in there. To be continued.

 

Best regards,

 

Hans

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Viktor your drawing skills are exellent. I think the easiest way to do the grid is to make it as a separate piece, cut out the relevant area on the cowling and put the grid in there. To be continued.

 

Best regards,

 

Hans

 

Happy to help you, Hans. I am looking forward to see how you deal with it :popcorn:

 

Viktor

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The grid. The first step is to reduce the drawing to 1:32. Next: measuring it up using digital caliphers. Step 3: cut measured strips from 0.3 mm plastic sheet, lay the strips over the drawing, glue the strips together and presto! a grid. Step four: measure the outside diameter of the grid you just made, apply the measurements to the upper cowling and, using one of Radu's exellent etched saws make four saw cuts and remove the area for the grid. Five. Reenforce the underside of the grid with 1 x 1.5 mm plastic strips and paint the underside dark grey. As an added bonus the strips also give a greater surface for the glue to attach to. Six and last, pop the grid in the gap and admire your handiwork, with a well deserved cool refreshment within reach :beer:

 

http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k638/Godbert/DSCN0934.jpg[/img]"]DSCN0934.jpg

 

 

http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k638/Godbert/DSCN0935.jpg[/img]"]DSCN0935.jpg

 

Hans

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The grid. The first step is to reduce the drawing to 1:32. Next: measuring it up using digital caliphers. Step 3: cut measured strips from 0.3 mm plastic sheet, lay the strips over the drawing, glue the strips together and presto! a grid. Step four: measure the outside diameter of the grid you just made, apply the measurements to the upper cowling and, using one of Radu's exellent etched saws make four saw cuts and remove the area for the grid. Five. Reenforce the underside of the grid with 1 x 1.5 mm plastic strips and paint the underside dark grey. As an added bonus the strips also give a greater surface for the glue to attach to. Six and last, pop the grid in the gap and admire your handiwork, with a well deserved cool refreshment within reach :beer:

 

http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k638/Godbert/DSCN0934.jpg[/img]"]DSCN0934.jpg

 

 

http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k638/Godbert/DSCN0935.jpg[/img]"]DSCN0935.jpg

 

Hans

 

Hans, very well done! :speak_cool:

I think your Il-2 kit will be as most accurate as possible...

 

Viktor

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