1/32 Hasegawa P-51D

[Ironwing]

Charlie,

My apologies for not thanking you for the links. The Preddy Bird is most tempting. However, the issue I'm trying to overcome is having to put decal solvent on the finish and then having to overspray the decals even though an overspray affords a great deal more protection for the finish. If this were to be an overall, topside green bird, an overspray would be fine to dull down the finish. It's quite a pickle. I just dont want the oversparay to alter the metal finish. Can you, or anyone else, make a recomendation?

 

Geoff

[ChrisS]

Geoff,

 

"test test test" and when you think you've got it test one more time.

 

I think the biggest point with clear coating a metal finish is less about "altering" the finish than it is about "knowing how" it will be altered before you begin.

 

Small hijack...

 

This bird has at least 2 coats of future over her:

 

 

I just tested the materials on scrap before I shot the bird...so-to-speak

 

HTH~

 

And for what it's worth, the Preddy bird has my vote!

[Ironwing]

Chris,

 

I'm glad you responded. If memory serves me correctly, your Mustang has a Rub-n-Buff finish. From the looks of the photos, it looks more realistic than the spray on finishes I've seen. Is this the result of weathering or is it the result of the finish type? I dont have a problem with an acrylic overspray but it would have to be the last applied coat of finish. I wouldn't try to put anything other than another layer of acrylic over it. I have, in the past, worked almost exclusively with lacquers for their quick drying and toughness properties. Even shooting clear lacquer over enamel has never been a problem if done lightly and built up slowly. I would just hate to screw this Mustang up after all the work that went into it because I couldn't get the finish right. Your points are well taken and appreciated.

 

I agree strongly with your like of Preddy's bird or any blue nose for that matter. But, there's something about a yellow nose that keeps creeping in there.

 

If anyone else cares to comment on metal finishing, please, join in.

 

Geoff

[Derek B]

PM sent Geoff.

 

Derek

 

Derek,

 

If you would care to try the solder, give me an address to send it to and I'll ship some off. It's great to work with.

 

Geoff

[Klaus H]

ironwing, i have tried mr metal primer from gunze. this is really a great seal for metallizer colors. i even tested it on aluminium foil and it is great. the only important thing is that you use a very thin layer. i think thats the trick to keep the metal look. no matter if you use mr metal primer, gloss coat or future. i think it just needs to be a very very thin layer.

 

i will also seal the aluminium parts on my heinkel using mr metal primer.

 

cheers klaus

[Ironwing]

Klausi,

 

Thanks for the news. I'll wait to see your results. Right now the Mustang is primed in Mr. Surfacer. I've managed to get it nice and clean but it still needs a bit of sanding and buffing to finish it off. Please, keep me posted on your results with Mr. Metal Primer.

 

Geoff

 

PS, Mr. Metal Primer is clear?

[Guest Rigor]

HI,g what about bare metal foil? it would be a lot more work but

it might pay off in the long run

 

there is all so alum- foil , but that is super thin and hard to work with

 

nice build its going to be one nice stang

 

cheers

[Klaus H]

yes, mr metal primer is clear.

 

i have already used it on the front parts of my turbine. the metal look of the aluminium didnt alter. just use very thin coats. if you spray it too thick it starts looking like an aluminium surface which is covered with clear coat, of coruse.

i did also use mr metal primer on the engine cowlings.

if you want to try aluminium foil i can only recommend to get alot of new baldes for your skalpel. change them as often as possible. i know that we modellers often are greedy with new blades, but you really need sharp ones there. i think there are some parts on the mustang which will be very very hard to foil. you will need to paint them anyway. or, if you want to use foil allover the plane, i would recommend to start foiling the difficult parts. this sounds stupide, but you will see if you can foil the complete plane or not. its a more easy decission to stop and remoove the foil, if you have only foiled 4 pannels than if you would have already foiled the whole wings and notice you cant get it done nicely when you are at the wing root.

 

 

 

cheers klaus

[Ironwing]

Hi Klaus,

 

Thanks for your response. Your suggestions make a good deal of sense. I considered using foil. The wings aren't a problem since they are painted anyway as are the elavators and rudder. No doubt, getting the foil around the gun ports would be quite difficult if not impossible. I'm still toying with the idea. I still have a way to go before I get to final finish. Now I know what a woman goes through in a shoe store.

 

Hope you are well,

 

Geoff

[ChrisS]

Geoff,

 

I realized that I may have overstated the resiliance of Alclad II to retain it's original metalic proporties under Future in my P-47 thread.

 

My intention was to use Alclad II polished aluminum and reduce the sheen with overcoats. Having met my expectations I am obtaining the correct look. But what I said about the Alclad "bearly" changing is incorrect. Future will alter the sheen to a decent degree with a single coat. From there you can apply more coats of future without compounding that original loss. I hope that makes sense, and sorry if I've missled you.

 

Looking forward to seeing the paint fly on this '51!!!

[Derek B]

Hi Geoff,

 

I am a big fan of foiling myself. I shall attempt to foil my 1/32 P-47D razorback when I have completed it. I have only ever foiled two models in my life. The first was a Matchhbox P-51D Mustang that was destroyed by my son after his first attempt at modelling - I rebuilt it purely to try out the technique. My second was a Revell P-47D bubbletop built straight OOB and entirely foiled...I guessed that if I could negotiate all of those double curvatures, then I could foil anything!...it took best of my local IPMS model show about two years ago.

 

The inspiration for all of my foiling is down to one person: Bucky Sheftall, see the attached link to his foiled P-47D in 1/48th scale. He also produced a very pdf document on how to carry out foiling on a 1/48th scale P-38 Lightning.

 

Bucky's foiled 1/48 P-47D

 

Bucky's 1/48 P-38 foiling tutorial pdf

 

HTH

 

Derek

[Smokinguns3]

HI,g what about bare metal foil? it would be a lot more work but

it might pay off in the long run

 

there is all so alum- foil , but that is super thin and hard to work with

 

nice build its going to be one nice stang

 

cheers

Iam doing the Alum foil thing on a 1/48B-29 for my 5yr old nephew. Its my first time to vary tedeus.

[Ironwing]

Greetings All,

 

Work on this thing is ongoing, albeit quite slow at this point. The fuselage wing assembly is nearing readiness for paint but touch ups are required. Final fit/finish of the control surfaces is also near completion. Underwing tanks and hangers are near done. Ishot up some pics (no better than the usual) but tried to change backgrounds to see if it helped. My conclusions - eh. Just the same, here is a brief update on the State of the Stang.

 

Geoff

[Ironwing]

Beginning with the underwing stations. I saw no reason not to use the kit supplied parts. They are relatively close in shape and size but a bit bland. Minor details were added just by drilling a few holes in the sides of each. One major detail that is missing are the anti sway braces. After noodeling a bit I decided to make them from .020 solder. The ends of each brace were flattened ( squeezed in flat jawed pliers) to simulate the contact surface which articulates with the outer surface of the tank. I can't say enough about the use of solder for detailing. If you haven't tried it, get some and give it a whirl. It's very agreeable to work with, stays where you put it, takes paint, holds solidly with CA Adhesives, and and comes in all sorts of diameters.

[Ironwing]

I'm still unsure of exactly how the tanks attach and will continue to research this. Here how the hangers looks against the tank. Also, there is a joining ridge which runs around the entire primeter of the tank. The kit supplied part has this artifact but it is oversize. In this instance, that detail was sanded off and replaced with a strip of 1/32 artists striping tape.