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1/32 Hasegawa P-51D

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Early exterior work: Reworked/shaped rudder, reworked/shaped spinner assembly,

new exhast shrouds (yes i know it's crooked) thinned trailing edge flap seat, internal canopy bracing and the fuselage has been scribed. Ill follow-up with more stuff in "In the Works" with details and interior.

 

Geoff

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Thanks for your help resolving the pic posting thing. Your solution was correct. It was all in the sizing. And to you that have given advice and tech data - here is what is coming out of it...many thanks.

 

Geoff

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Moderator's note:

 

I merged all three topics and then moved them to the works section.

 

Great work so far, but please take some care posting topics in the right forums. Also note that you can post multiple pictures to the same topic by simply replying to your own thread.

 

Thanks and great stuff so far on the stang!!!

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Beginnings of the flap rework. The kit originals are removed from the wing, assembled and then used as a form to heat form new flaps. This isnt really required. The originals can be used failrly convincingly. However, on both the port and starboard flap leading edge are two openings which are quite obvious when the flaps are at full extention. This full extention position is always the case while the aircraft is on the ground and the hydralic system has bled off pressure. If the kit parts are used, adding these two openings could be near if not completely impossible. By heat forming the flap, the flap remains hollow and allows the two adjustment openings to be added without a great deal of difficulty.

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Reworked/reshaped Hasegawa spinner. The kit spinner, as it is, is a bit too "pudgy" and should follow the parabola of the upper fuselage center line. The Hasegawa spinner, while it follows it somewhat, never the less has a step in it; no doubt to compensate for the front of the fuselage. There is a comparison shot of the reworked -vs- the kit supplied part for comparison.

In order to effect the rework, the spinner and its backing plate were welded together using Tenax. Next,a round toothpic was driven into the backing plate flange which is located on the back of the backing plate. This was then inserted into a Dremel Tool, spun and shaved to the new shape.

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Wow Geoff! That looks like some really neat and tidy reworking you're doing there. I very much look forward to seeing some more pics!

 

Thanks for sharing

 

Cheers

Ango

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Kit original prior to reshaping. Note how the spinner goes flat in cross section rather than continuing the parabola which starts atop the cowling.

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