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Found 7 results

  1. So I see a few of the ongoing B-17 build threads are getting bumped back into the forums, which is a good thing, but it's finally given me the incentive to "get my B-17 on!" There's some very talented people some some great work on these awesome kits and it does seem they have to potential to overwhelm you very easily if you aren't careful. So clearly I'm not, so here's the plan. Take one HK B-17G and with some fairly major surgery, attempt to turn it into something resembling a D. Yes, I know a lot of you right now are questioning my sanity in wanting to cut up a fairly expensive kit with little to no guarantee of success, but isn't that what modelling's all about? The way I look at it is this. HK did an exceptional job in making the dream a reality, but I for one have always been bothered about the shape of the fuselage, especially around the nose. I know this has been talked about practically to death and a few people have got pretty wound up over the topic. I'm not a rivet counter, so to me if it looks right, then it is. I'm doing this purely for my own enjoyment and to see if it can actually be done, as to my knowledge no one else has tried this, and I very much doubt HK is going to bring out a shark tail anytime soon! I also thought that with the other builds being G's and maybe one or two F's getting a run when they finally come on the scene, it would be nice to see something a bit different. This will certainly be the ultimate test of my not very considerable modelling skills at the moment. So here's the plan: I have the Koster 1/48 conversion, which I think together with the old monogram G, is definitely the closest thing to capturing the true lines of the fort so that's what I'm basing my conversion on. Using his instructions on what bits to remove where, I'm pretty much doing the same thing, just upscaling to 1/32. At the end of the day, I will still have to scratch build the entire rear fuselage and for the most part the nose, not only to get the right contours but also due to it being shorter. Because I don't understand CAD, here's the grand plan on paper...... Yep, pretty inspiring isn't it! Actually, despite how it looks, I'm pretty happy with the outline I've come up with, referencing it back to the monogram offering, and this is where most of my dimensions will come from. It may not be accurate, but as I said, at least it SHOULD look like a D! The other thing I had to start doing, to get a clearer picture of the difference in dimensions, was to start cutting some of the plastic (gulp). I'm sure most of you are aware of the size, but in case you aren't, check this out... Yep, she's a big girl! The first cut was to separate the upper turtle deck into left and right halves, so they could be attached to the rest of the fuselage so I had a proper indication of the overall height. Then, as alluded to in Koster's drawings, as the nose is some 14.3mm shorter than the G, so too the cockpit will have to allow for this (and due to the extra glazing and seats) so I separated it before it changed cross section. With the remainder of the turtle deck glued on, I now put on marks where I was going to cut the forward and rear fuselage. The centre section thankfully remained pretty much unchanged in terms of shape and the wings are the same too (otherwise it definitely would've been in the "too hard" basket!). From here it'll be a case of remove the extra, then construct solid patterns of the fuselage to vacuum form over the top of. As with all the other B-17 builds, this will be slow, but the first cut has been done so I'm well on my way. I hope you'll join me on this journey Thanks for looking, Craig P.S. Sorry about the pics, I thought photo bucket had rotated them for me.... I'll do better next time
  2. Hello there. Maybe you know this phenomenon. I have several more or less unfinished models lying around. And then, something completely new comes to mind. Some months ago, I was thrilled by the idea of a 1/32 Marauder, and despite my other builds, I started to work on a 3d-model. I already printed some major parts. I now have some days of leave of absence, and hope to make some progress (as well with my other unfinished projects). But who knows when I get distracted with something completely new again Propellers and engines are lent from a free 3d-model for visual demonstration only. Here is a picture of an early stage, where you can see how the wings are made of several segments: The main fuselage is divided into three sections due to the maximum build-volume of my 3d-printer (about 20 cm). The left and right halves are 0,5 mm apart, with a recessed line in the middle. The three sections are first glued together. This approach helps to keep alignment. Otherwise, gluing six separately printed fuselage parts together while keeping alignment would be a nightmare. On the fuselage, I already scribed the panel-lines, with the drawing in the Warpaint book as a reference. The fuselage is now more or less ready to be sawed apart into left and right halves to get access into the interior. The most important "tool" when doing this kind of modelling: Cheers Alex
  3. I want my dog printed in my favorite scales; 32nd, 24th, & 12th. Where would I even begin?! Preferably with a leg up marking his territory. I'd love to pose those prints next to my subjects, perhaps preparing to wee on a tire or something. Photos from different angles obviously, but what would be best? Ideas and advice would be greatly appreciated.
  4. While planning my 1/32 OV-10A project I decided to include a couple B37K bomb racks. I couldn't find any in the aftermarket, so I started scratch building one, then realized this rack would be a good 3D printing project in itself. The cost of 3D printers has dropped enough that one can just buy one and jump right in. After researching the various printer technologies I decided the best one for making model parts would be a DLP printer. The Anycubic Photon and the Elegoo Mars are both DLP printers costing under 500 dollars, and I decided to try the Elegoo Mars printer for this project. DLP printers are notable for their ability to print detailed objects with smooth surfaces. Another feature of DLP technology is the ability to create multiple copies of the same object in the same amount of time it takes to print just one. My goal was to build the two B37K racks that I needed, then go into production, building several at a time. Rather than write a tutorial on the subject of 3D printing I figure it would be better to just describe the process from start to finish. I'm still learning the technology myself, which is a necessity since documentation on the subject is so sparse. Expect lots of failures! Step 1: Making the mesh using a CAD program The first step in the 3D printing process is to build a mesh of your object using a CAD program. There are plenty of CAD programs available, however since I was already comfortable using AC3D, by Inivis, I went with it. My prior experience with CAD was all about making airplane models for use in flight simulators. This type of CAD work can be called "CAD for rendering", or CAD-R. In this type of CAD your goal is to provide a mesh (along with graphics called "textures") to a computer's GPU (graphics processing unit) so that it can render it on screen. CAD for printing, which I'll call CAD-P, is similar in that you're creating a 3D mesh, but there are some notable differences. For one thing in CAD-P you don't have a GPU helping you by smoothing out the surfaces for you. In CAD-P a surface is just a surface. The CAD-P surfaces don't have attributes like smoothness, shininess, or color like they do in a CAD-R. Another notable difference is that in CAD-P it is critical that your mesh has a well defined interior and exterior. In other words the printer needs to know where the inside is in order to put the resin there, and it needs to know where the outside is so it won't put resin there. This is not a concern in CAD-R. In CAD-R you are mostly concerned with which surfaces are in front of which other surfaces (the "z-order"). Here's the B37K rack as built in AC3D: Step 2: The slicer Now that you have a mesh the next step is to save it in binary STL format. This is the format needed by the slicer. The slicer is an application that prepares the project for printing and translates it into G-Code, which is the format used by the 3D printer. The slicer app does several things: 1) orients the object on the build platform 2) scales the object, if needed 3) generates the "supports" 4) defines the printer settings 5) slices the object into horizontal layers 6) saves all this into G-Code Orientation of the object has an impact on both the quality of the final print and on the time it takes to print. You may have to try different orientations before finding the right one for your particular object. Scaling allows you to set the desired size of the print regardless of what size it was designed at. It also allows you, if desired, to increase the size of your print by about 2 percent to account for shrinkage during the curing step. The supports are generated automatically, but you have many options here including manually adding or removing supports. The printer settings need to be adjusted to match the type of resin you are using, and there can be a lot of trial and error in finding the right settings. The slicer app then slices the project into horizontal slices. There can be hundreds of slices. The final step is to save the project into G-Code, which is the low-level file format understood by the printer. Supports are necessary to the build, since no part of the object can be created unless it is attached to some other previously created part. Although the slicer automatically generates supports, I've found that you usually need to add more manually. The down-side of supports is that they leave little "nibs" on your object that will have to be cut or sanded off in the post-printing phase. The base layer (called a "raft") is designed to allow you to easily pop the printed object off of the build platform. If you build your object directly on the build platform you run the risk of breaking it during removal. Step 3: The print You save your project to a USB stick, then insert the stick into the printer. Turn the printer on, add resin to the resin tank, select the object you want to print on the touch screen, then take a long break. Printing time varies from about one hour to ten or twenty hours depending on your printer settings (that you chose in step 2), and on the orientation of the object. This B37K rack takes about 1.5 hours to build horizontally, and about 8 hours to build if I stand it up on its end. Apparently you need to wear gloves when handling the resin. I don't know why, actually. I don't know if the resin is toxic, or if it is just because the resin is messy. In any case I'm sure you don't want it in your eyes. You'll need lots of isopropyl alcohol and paper towels for the next steps. Step 4: Removal and Curing When the printer signals complete you remove the build platform and set it down on a paper towel, then carefully pop the object off of the build platform. Drop the object into a jar of isopropyl alcohol to wash off the excess resin, then remove the supports. Actually I'm still not sure how much of the support structure should be removed now, and how much should remain attached during the curing step. The uncured object is still a bit weak, and rough handling could damage it. Place the object in UV light to cure it. Below is a picture of a curing box I built consisting of two 20 watt UV lights, a rotating display table, and power switch. While the curing is going on (about 20 minutes, I figure, but who knows) you pour the unused resin from the resin tank back into the bottle (through a filter to keep any floating bits out), then clean up the build platform and resin tank using isopropyl alcohol. It's messy stuff! Step 5: Throw away the failed print Unfortunately there are many ways the print can fail - bad mesh, bad orientation, bad printer settings, old resin, temperature too cold, platform not level, failed supports, etc. Here's a sample of the failed prints I've made of the B37K rack. Worst case is when the print never adheres to the build platform in the first place, and instead adheres to the bottom of the resin tank. Sometimes you can't get the failed print off of the tank bottom (also called the FEP film) without breaking the film. In that case you have to replace the FEP film - a very laborious process. So far the score in this battle is about Printer 12, Dave 0. I'm hoping I'll eventually get a satisfactory print.
  5. Well i figured i better jump in here, I assume this is the right place to post, it's not an airplane but it is large! I thought i would post some pic's of my 3D Printed V-1. About 90% is printed and the other 10% is by hand, She measure's a tic over 21". I generally don't Doc my build since most are for private request(I need there permission), But i guess i could start doing it for my personal builds. Any questions feel free to ask!
  6. Ok, soooooo.... I have recently started working with a digital sculptor, and the test figure below shows the digital artwork, the raw 3d test print (minus supports), and a quickly painted 'finished' figure. It represents a typical 18th -19th century ordinary seaman, done in 28mm size. This was done on a desktop DLP/SLA type 3d printer. A successful test, and the shape of things to come...! -Joe
  7. Good evening all, Time to start a new WIP, and to (at last) live by my chosen monicker and deal with a ... racer ! The Travel Air Mystery Ship created created quite a stir when it was unveiled in 1929. Developed in great secret with the support of the CEO of Travel air Walter Beech, it was built to win the National Air Races, which up to then had been dominated by the fast Army and Navy Curtiss thoroughbreds.` It featured two characteristics that were to mark durably the design of racers and, beyond that, that of American fighters : a big powerful radial engine (the Wright J6-9 Whirlwind) and the then newly developed NACA cowling, which had demonstrated its tremendous aerodynamic benefits. The Travel Air type R, dubbed "Mystery Ship" by the Press wondering what was being secretly "cooked" behind veils by the firm, sporting a gleaming beautiful red color with black scalops edged by a green trim line, went on to win the 1929 Thompson trophy, at an average speed above 200 Mph. I have always loved the stubby little racer, and always wondered why Williams Bros had never released an IM kit of it. I was tempted to scratchbuild one in 1/32, but was held up by the color scheme: not sure if I could manage the green trim line along the black scalops. Needless to say I was overjoyed when I learnt that Lone Star Models had planned one in 1/32 resin. The waiting lasted somewhat, as the kit was announced in 2013, to be released for the Nats in 2014, when it was not really ready, Mike West, LSM's owner, struggling with the decals apparently. I placed my order as soon as it was available, in October 2014, together with the then forthcoming Bugatti racer. LSM is a one-man operation, typical old style "cottage industry", and my order lingered on for some time - but no worry. I was regularly in touch with Mike, and given my kit ouput and the size of my stash, I could wait and knew it would come. The box finally arrived this week. And, pronto, rather than store in the stash, I have decided to tackle it immediately. This fist post will constitute a review of what you get. The review The kit is a fairly simple one : two fuselage halves, two plain wings, two stabilators, a one-pîece fin and rudder, two plain wheel spats and wheels, a two-part cowling, 4 parts for the cockpit (floor, dashboard, seat and rear bulkhead), 11 parts for the engine (crankcase, and 10 - one extra - cylinder) a vac-form windshield, a propeller, and 7 white metal parts, 6 for the landing gear structure and one for the tail skid. The instructions mention a piece of Plastruct streamlined rod to cut the 4 wing to fuselage struts. Mine did not have any, but this is a porduct I have plenty of in my set of modeling aids. So no problem here, for me at least. Add to that 6 pages of instructions and pictures, and a magnificent decal sheet, incorporating all the black scalops, with the green trim line. This decal sheet is the highlight of the kit, and alone justifies buying it IMHO. Btw, I had a double decal sheet in my box. I think it's not wanted, but it means I can make mistakes with little consequences . The resin is typical LSM beige, bubble-free, with little flash and significant pour stubs. The surface detail is restraint and rather fine. The Mystery ship was a very smooth airframe, the wings and fuselage being plywood-covered, with just the cowling, psts, and fuselage from the engine mount to the instrumenrt panle metal covered. The kit should present no problem reproducing this smooth glinting surface. The fin and stabilators display a nice rendering of the fabric-covered surfaces The shape appears good overall, with some caveats described below. The dimensions are good, without any impact of potential resin shrinkage. the wingspan is spot-on for the "long" wing which was brought the wingspan to 29'2", i.e. 27.8 cms. The Travel Air in the 1929 Thompson had a short wing (27'8") which should not be a problem to carve out of the one-piece outer wings. The adjustments of the two fuselage halves are OK, and again, whilst not up to the latest Sliver Wings or Fisher products are a fair effort. TBC next post ...
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