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About jcfay

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    LSP Junkie
  • Birthday 04/03/1970

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    New York, NY
  1. Hey there - I have one of the smaller hold n folds and it works just fine. But I would also recommend one of these (which I picked up at Great Models, I think), as I use it far more often: My thing with the hold n fold, etch mate, etc., is that it really takes much longer to get the PE part aligned in the hold n fold compared to any sort of hand-held tool (be it the above or some pliers, etc.). I just end up using the hand-held thing much more frequently, as it's faster and easier. But sometimes I'll still use the hold n fold. Enjoy the PE! It's fun and pretty easy to use too, in my experience - JON P.S. I definitely use a couple of other things, too, including the clear plexiglass holder/handle thing that came with the hold n fold, and also the small sheets of acrylic plastic (although plexi or glass would also work) to cut the PE on. These are really valuable.
  2. Guys - thanks very much for all of the compliments. It's appreciated. It was great to see Jamie's Stuka too; what a fabulous piece of work that is! Sean - the painting process on this took a whole number of steps, definitely far more than what I usually do on a build (due to the distemper). I didn't chronicle it in a thread (I'll be better about this in the future...) so here is what it was: 1) Primer, and then preshaded panels lines with black 2) Painted select spots (areas that could be prone to more wear) with Alclad aluminum 3) Added table salt with water to these spots, and let dry 4) Painted the standard RLM 65/70/71 camo, let dry, and then removed the salt exposing the metal areas 5) Gloss coat with future 6) Decals 7) More future 8) Weathered with artist's oils 9) Yes, more future 10) applied bluetac masks over the upper surface insignias and markings 11) Sprayed a highly thinned flat white mix over upper surfaces, unevenly and with varying patterns; removed masks 12) After drying, took paper towel with a bit of thinner to surfaces to remove some of the distemper, and further streak it 13) you guess it, more future! 14) weathered with artists oils, and applied tamiya smoke and a small bit of grey for exhaust stains 15) more future, with a bit of tamiya flat base in it for flat finish I think with all of the wait times between coats for drying this took me the better part of a month and a half or longer, but I think it turned out well. It looked like these sorts of Stukas were already pretty dirty even before the white wash was applied, so I wanted to do that too. The table salt/flaked metal thing also worked out pretty well too, but most of that is mostly hidden. Altogether I was going for many different layers. Thanks again, JON
  3. Matt - great work. It looks awesome, overall, very nice detail and painting. Those MDC sidewalls are really, really nice too. Keep the pics coming please! JON
  4. Here's the guns. The include a bunch of Eduard details as well as scratch-built piping and tubes. And of course then they're weathered pretty heavily too... And, just one quick shot of part of my inspiration for this thing. A pic of a super-dirty stuka: Thanks for looking, JON
  5. Alright, here's some more. Pics of the cockpit: This shot shows the high-quality Hasegawa canopy, and the great canopy interior decals, as well (mixed with some paint, of course): A good view of the instrument panel and radios: Some more sidewall detail through the excellent transparencies: Some shots of the underside. Also visible is the Eduard radiator replacement details: More Eduard detail: Next will be the guns...
  6. Howdy folks - well, I've finally finished this 1/32 Hasegawa Stuka G2, with Eduard's interior/exterior PE sets, Voyager model's metal barrels, and an Eaglecal decal set. This was Hans Ulrich Rudel's bird, but I decided to put it in winter distemper as well (I didn't find any pics of this specific aircraft in distemper so I took a bit of liberty here). Looking at some pics of winterized Stukas (super dirty, of course) towards the end of the war I couldn't resist the chance to weather to the extreme. The original build article started some months back (here's the original post: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=20706) as part of the "Wings of the Luftwaffe" group build (also with a resin engine, which I abandoned since crafting replacement cowling panels was going to be such a bear). Couldn't make the deadline but at least it's finished! Hope you like it. It sure was a fun and time-absorbing build. Full view: Some views closer in of the weathering on the beast. The whole process took a very long time: More pics to come...
  7. Jamie - great build! I love the Stuka in winter distemper (I actually just finished mine in a similar winter scheme - I think there's something about the Stuka in winter colors that just captures my attention and interest). Your work is really flawless on this one. I would love to see more pics too! JON
  8. Great work. Keep the pics coming please! Jon
  9. Barry - FANTASTIC work. Welcome to the site and please keep the posts coming. Really amazing the level of detail that you're adding, and the clarity of detail too. Thanks for sharing! Jon
  10. I'm with you James. I think that's probably the route that I would take. Although instead I might actually tape off the framing now, then take the scalpel to the bleed over, then spray future on the whole thing (with the mask still in place). Just a thought, however. Jon
  11. Rocky - hey there. I gotta agree with Dave on this one. They are all great kits, and you've already got mucho details for most of the kits and so none of them are really rush jobs. I think purchasing a cheap 21st century kit is a great idea in this instance (although I haven't build one of these yet they do sound like they'd be perfect here). And that way, if you've gotta move, you can throw it in the box and not be as concerned. My 2 cents. Good luck with the move BTW. JON
  12. Well, as some follow-up, I did end up applying the decals as I think that they will look better (and also there is as was pointed out a considerable amount of internal only framing) and thanks to everyone's really helpful advice. But horror of horrors the decals couldn't have been a worse fit, actually. They were all too long or too wide, but at least they weren't too short so it should still come out o.k. But I was a little surprised that the Hasegawa decals from this kit that is otherwise totally excellent would be so mis-shapen. In general, I thought Hasegawa's kits had pretty decent decals... Thanks again folks - JON
  13. Thanks very much guys for the input - it's helpful. I definitely wasn't considering masking and spraying the inside, although as you point out it can be an option. I think what I was worried about was applying the decals and having them not look to scale, as sometimes the cockpit plastic can distort the perception of scale (unlike the real cockpit glass) and make framing that is actually inside look warped and bizarre. The Hasegawa canopy plastic, however, looks pretty good, thin and clear, so I think that this distortion probably wouldn't be an issue. Also, part of the glass has to be painted anyway, but for some reason Hasegawa calls for this interior portion of the glass to be painted flat black when the cockpit is RLM 66. It also looks like the internal canopy decals are also black, at least some of them and then others look like RLM 66 (although it's a bit hard to tell). So it may be, in fact, that some of the internal canopy framing should be black, and some should be 66 (references don't address this). So I think I'm going to go with the decals. Thanks again, JON
  14. Great looking build (and a belated happy birthday to you, as well). Please keep the pics coming. I've got a copy of this kit in the stash and I'm really looking forward to it as I've heard the engineering is simply amazing. JON
  15. With the current exchange rates that's like $400 US... Maybe someone has the title out there. JON
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