Woody V

+2 here. I don't build enough to use mine frequently, but when I do it opens up a whole world of possibilities. Metal stencils are very limited in their use.

Yes, it's no big deal touching up the overspray and even as it is it's barely visible from a foot away. But my OCD leads me around by the nose so I must obey. I like solving problems which is a good thing because I'm usually the one that creates them. lol. Speaking of which, my early experiments with the kabuki masks just trades one problem for another. The "F-word" is nmayhew's creation, short for Future.

Thanks Geoff, I've learned a lot just viewing WIPs and figure that if I can help someone in any way, I will too. Woody Yea, it just isn't flexible enough. Where it wraps under the fuselage is a huge fail, but the kabuki stuff is opaque so getting it in the right place is a trick and it's so sticky it'll be quite a challenge. I don't use CA for anything unless it's the last resort, that stuff hates me. I put some of the F-word in a jar and let it evaporate until it's thickens to like cream. Seems to work great and any excess can be cleaned off before it dries with a wet brush, or airbrush cleaner after it dries.

I've seen this done in the WIP forum where the builder quotes multiple responders in a single answer, but I can't figure out how it's done. How do you quote multiple responses in a single response? If that makes any sense.

I have a Cameo 3 which works just fine for everything I've done from cutting masks to .007 styrene. There are guys here who use the -2 and their work speaks for itself. As for creating the artwork, if you can do it outside the Silhouette software it can be imported. I use an ancient version of Adobe Illustrator and import .dxf files so I get exactly what I need.

WELCOME TO THIS WEEK’S EPISODE OF WHY EVERYTHING TAKES FOREVER AROUND HERE But first, some normal stuff. Finally got my paint on. Not quite as much contrast as the mule, but I’m okay with it considering there’s still weathering to be done. All of the control surfaces were painted off the model in hopes that they would have a slightly different appearance. Just blue (or gray) over black followed by white between the ribs and them misting on blue/gray to feather the white out. Since this is lacquer, I airbrushed a damp coast of lacquer thinner over them to bond the mist coats to the base. Painting the insignias on the fuselage turned out to be a challenge.. I cut my own masks on my Cameo 3 using Oramask 810 and ran into a nasty problem getting the mask to conform around the rivets and the wrap around aft part of the wing filet. The result is that since the mask did not conform tightly I got some blue overspray even after being careful to spray perpendicular to the edge. Not happy. I know it’s crooked, this is just a test. Then I had a brainstorm….. which is why things take so long around here. Why not make a decal? Since I’m using lacquer I can paint it on clear decal film and voila! Home made decal. So far, so good. Thomas Edison has been quoted to say “I didn’t fail, I discovered something that doesn’t work.” Me too, two times, actually. In the end figured out how to USE it after you make it. Making it is the simple part. My biggest problem was that the first ones were too thin, so I finally added a coat of semi gloss and got one I could control. Yes, a decal can be too thin. Here’s the successful one, applied with water only. That way it’s easy to remove if I decide to do another, which I don’t, but I’ll use this side for my next mask attempt. Here’s what it looks like dry. Not bad, but comparing it to the painted version there’s no contest. The only way I’d do this again is if would too difficult to paint directly on the model, and the surface is smooth. On a smooth surface I’d thrown down a coat or two of clear gloss and feather in the edge by sanding. Something to keep in mind. Next on the agenda is cutting new masks with kabuki stuff and having another go at it. Thanks for watching.

Everyone has their favorite, but after trying several different brands including Harder Steenbeck (which I hated), I'm back to the first airbrush I used back in the 80s when I was a commercial artist, an HP-SB Plus with a .2mm tip for no specific reason, It just feels right in my hand and it's easy to clean thoroughly. I also have a HP-C, but rarely use it.

QUICK UPDATE Before reaching this point, I managed to coax the rest of the cowling on in what appears to be reasonable alignment, and repaint the canopy parts which are a far sight better than the first try. WHY EVERYTHING AROUND HERE TAKES FOREVER (Part 43) I decided to have a go at pre-shading on this build, but since I’ve never done it some experiments were in order - “some” being quite an understatement. Over the course of a week my mule suffered numerous painting indignities that you, dear reader, will be spared. In summation I learned that pre-shading is a skill that I shall never comprehend, let alone master. As a last ditch experiment I tried black-basing, a process that begins with an overall coat of black, followed by erratic airbrush movements (something my spastic hands are quite good at) in hopes of achieving an overall mottled look followed by very light overspray to blend everything together. Thanks to what can only be attributed to as some unique planetary alignment and divine sympathy I blundered onto an acceptable result. This is my mule, but I’m sure the actual model won’t turn out this good. A little more streaking near the wing root should get this looking pretty dirty. Soldiering on to my model I first laid down an overall coat of AK Xtreme Metal Aluminum. I considered just painting the areas where chipping was most likely to be, but it looked so pretty I couldn’t stop. BTW, the clear cowling didn’t care much for the metal - it did craze, but since it’s under the paint it doesn’t matter. I guess Then a coat of hairspray and an overall coat of semi-gloss black. So this where I am today. Hopefully, I can wrap the painting up next weekend…. Hopefully the planets will cooperate. BTW, all top coat paint is a mix of Mr. Color and AK Real Color lacquers. One last thing: You will note my high-tech model stand (rather than a fixture or jig - ahem) thanks to a suggestion by our very own chuck540z3, to whom I am grateful. Proving once again that it’s not always necessary to throw money at a problem to solve it.

There is old adage in custom car painting that goes: The paint is no better than the work under it. Chances are that the black was rough and you didn't notice it, as I did on my Wildcat build.

^^^ What he said.

Back in the day it was a little-known trick to use a pencil to draw panel lines instead of scribing them.

Shipping today.

Hi Dave, Got ya covered. Send your mailing address to orders@archertransfers.com and I'll put them in the mail with a tracking link. Woody

Jig: noun Machinery. a plate, box, or open frame for holding work and for guiding a machine tool to the work, used especially for locating and spacing drilled holes; fixture. You can call an alligator a tomato but that doesn't make it a tomato.

Wrong, a jig is more of a fixture to hold a workpiece firmly in place while tools work on it, like you see in factories. Jigs for building models are used to hold components in precise alignment - like biplanes, but they are more commonly used in the construction of flying models. But what do I know, I was only a tool maker for 7 years.

I might have the kit parts you're looking for. Which part numbers exactly do you need?

The subject isn't jigs, just something to hold the model while you work on it.

Second vote for a pencil sharpened to a chisel point. Won't work on gloss, but it does on SG or flat.

I've considered it, but it's not a priority at this time. I wish I had a magic want, but alas I don't. Woody

I know I'm a little late to the JB Weld party, but I've known people that fixed cracked engine blocks with that stuff. I haven't gone that far but I've used it to fix broken pot handles, cat littler scoops, toilet flush handles and other things essential to survival in the modern world. One of the few things that actually lives up to its claims.

If these are the temporary fasteners around the edge of removable panels, they are called Dzus fasteners. The ones we have are going to stand a bit proud so be aware of that. The one you're looking for is THIS.

I've never done any pre-shading before and looking for any tips you may be interested in sharing. Thanks in advance. Woody

If you need them recessed try drilling a shallow hole and fill it with some water soluble filler like Perfect Plastic Putty. When dry wipe over it with a damp cloth until it's just below the surface.

I'd probably know that if I bothered to read the subject line. Sorry Ryan, I don't have anything constructive that might help. Water based paints have made it very clear to me that they hate my guts and if they ever catch me even thinking about using them they will make my life miserable.

That's really clever and I won't need a bar stool. Perfect.